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TR4/4A TR4A trunnion issue

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tdskip

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I was doing more clean up and sorting and noticed this on the passenger side trunnion;

tr4apassengersidetrunnion4-28-101.jpg


tr4apassengersidetrunnion4-28-10.jpg
 
That looks pretty unusual - the bolt holding the steering stop sheared off? I guess it could be random fatique but it might imply a pretty hard hit to get that stop to come off. You might be able to carefully easy out the remains of the bolt, but I wonder if it would be easier to buy a replacement trunnion outright.
 
Hi Randy - think loosing the driver's side wheel would do it?

Time to replace the trunnion to be on the safe side? Any recommendations on which vendor has the best trunnion?

Thanks!
 
Both of my steering stops were broken as yours. I just drilled them out and with a touch of heat to the trunnion surrounding the bolt and they backed out easily with an easy out. Not a biggie. Pretty sure they are 5/16-18 threads.

Might have been a skid into a curb at one time that sheared them off.
 
If the threads on the trunnion to vertical link are tight, I'd reuse the old ones.
 
PeterK said:
If the threads on the trunnion to vertical link are tight, I'd reuse the old ones.
Click to expand...

I would take PeterK's advice and repair/reuse if you can. I found out knee-deep in a club tech session rebuilding my left front suspension that the Made in Taiwan trunnion from *** would not even fit the vertical link. (YMMV) I just assumed they would fit and the vendor provided no information regarding if they needed some sort of setup. I still need to return them.

The threads were still good on my old one and a club member cleaned it up on a wire brush and it looks great.

You could give **** a try to see if their Made in UK ones do. At least the pair I sourced are from the UK...
 
I haven't seen the current replacements, but I would reuse the originals since they are tight.

Scott
 
Thanks guys. Need to double check the manual on what they are lubed with, if forced to venture a guess right now I believe it is 90wt oil.




(did I get it right?)
 
Yup, 4A is when they switched from grease to 'hypoid' oil.

But the earlier cars get by just fine with the recommended grease, so I'm not convinced it makes much difference.
 
When I ordered replacement stops for my 4A, they were round not offset. So no real adjustment of the stop, just a stop.
 
TR3driver said:
Yup, 4A is when they switched from grease to 'hypoid' oil.

But the earlier cars get by just fine with the recommended grease, so I'm not convinced it makes much difference.
Click to expand...

The argument made in favor of using grease at the club tech sessions was that the quality of grease is better today and that 90 wt makes a mess. The consensus was that whatever you choose you should regular maintain it.

I ordered the 8 oz 90wt tube and pump gun from Mercury and was all ready to go that route. The Made in China (notice a theme here?) tip of the gun would not let loose of the grease nipple. After yanking and yanking and trying to prise it off, I got it off with a wrench. The nipple is still stuck in that gun and my trunnion has Mobil 1 synthetic red grease in it.
 
tdskip said:
Where did you source them Peter - Moss says NLA.
Click to expand...

victoriabritish.com p/n 5-1512 @$2.95 each

edit:

p/n 5-4010 @4.95 each are listed for TR2 3 4 - I expect these are the offset drilled steering stops.

But for 4A and 250, they list concentric stops as above.
 
TRF has them listed too, P/N 101407. Price is higher, but I'll bet they are drilled off-center as they should be.

If all else fails, I'm bound to have some used ones in a bucket somewhere.

For the zerk coupling, try unscrewing the collar at the tip of the coupling from the body of the coupling. You may need pliers to grab the collar. I've got several of them that tend to lock too tightly, unless I unscrew that collar by a half turn or so. Worst case, unscrew it entirely and the teeth that grab the zerk should fall out.
 
CinneaghTR said:
The argument made in favor of using grease at the club tech sessions was that the quality of grease is better today and that 90 wt makes a mess.
Click to expand...
The argument I've heard in favor of the oil is that it moves around, and carries wear particles away from the wear area. The factory also warned of damage to the threaded portion, and stiff steering.
 
TR3driver said:
For the zerk coupling, try unscrewing the collar at the tip of the coupling from the body of the coupling. You may need pliers to grab the collar. I've got several of them that tend to lock too tightly, unless I unscrew that collar by a half turn or so. Worst case, unscrew it entirely and the teeth that grab the zerk should fall out.
Click to expand...

Thanks, Randall. I'll give that a try. I prefer to work on my car and not my tools, but I know that is not how it works.

I read all that tech stuff, which was the reason why I intended to go with 90wt. I figured I would get to try 90 wt the next time around. :smile: FWIW, the vertical link and trunnion as found on my car were packed with grease and were in great shape.
 
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