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TR4/4A tr4A timing chain procedure?
- Thread starter mtlman8
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Are your spockets marked?
If so, it's fairly clear what to do; You first be certain the sprockets are aligned flush--by placing a steel straightedge across the face of the sprockets and shimming if necessary; next you put the chain on the spockets, properly lubricated, being absolutely certain the chain is not backwards; then align the marks on the sprockets and be sure the punch marks on the front engine plat are aligned so you see the dot punch thru the hole in the cam sprocket, and both punches on the engine plate are aligned at about eleven o'clock. Eyeballing correct alignment of marks requires a good metal straight edge and good lighting.
If you don't have the sprockets marked, you have to adjust the valve clearance of the number 8 and 7 pushrods when pushrods 1 and 2, respectively, are at their highest level, each to .040, then turn the cam until valves 7 and 8 are in balance, meaning one is just opening as one is just closing, with rocker clearance exactly equal, then rotate the crank to TDC and slip the chain onto the crank sprocket and onto the cam sprocket and very carefully reapproach the camshaft, avoiding turning it; if it won't align with the bolt holes, you have to rotate the cam sprocket 90 degrees at a time to keep the bolt holes correct--and that will move the sprocket 1/2 tooth; flipping it will adjust 1/4 tooth, and then 3/4 if you rotate 90 degrees reversed (I can't imagine you'll need to do that since you likely know the correct front face).
It's very tedious to fit the bolts back into the cam with the sprocket fitted. I can't explain why, but it took me 45 minutes just to be sure I wasn't stripping the bolts; they kept wanting to go in at some crazy angle.
When done, readjust the valve clearances to .010.
To test your work, your distributor rotor should point at pushrod tube number 1 when you are at TDC AT THE COMPRESSION STROKE, and at that point the timing marks will be aligned, if you have them.
Don't forget. Never do any of this until you've first properly torqued all of the bolts that are inside the timing cover and under the timing sprocket. Recalling a loose bolt in there can propel you back into the garage where others could discover you in a robotic state removing the radiator hoses, the radiator, the front engine brace, the steering rack, front engine pulley and dog bolt, the timing cover, and finally the chain and sprocket, and starting all over again.
Well, I hope that's accurate, and I hope that was your question. I just realized it may not have been. At least I will have created something I can read to myself from time to time.
If so, it's fairly clear what to do; You first be certain the sprockets are aligned flush--by placing a steel straightedge across the face of the sprockets and shimming if necessary; next you put the chain on the spockets, properly lubricated, being absolutely certain the chain is not backwards; then align the marks on the sprockets and be sure the punch marks on the front engine plat are aligned so you see the dot punch thru the hole in the cam sprocket, and both punches on the engine plate are aligned at about eleven o'clock. Eyeballing correct alignment of marks requires a good metal straight edge and good lighting.
If you don't have the sprockets marked, you have to adjust the valve clearance of the number 8 and 7 pushrods when pushrods 1 and 2, respectively, are at their highest level, each to .040, then turn the cam until valves 7 and 8 are in balance, meaning one is just opening as one is just closing, with rocker clearance exactly equal, then rotate the crank to TDC and slip the chain onto the crank sprocket and onto the cam sprocket and very carefully reapproach the camshaft, avoiding turning it; if it won't align with the bolt holes, you have to rotate the cam sprocket 90 degrees at a time to keep the bolt holes correct--and that will move the sprocket 1/2 tooth; flipping it will adjust 1/4 tooth, and then 3/4 if you rotate 90 degrees reversed (I can't imagine you'll need to do that since you likely know the correct front face).
It's very tedious to fit the bolts back into the cam with the sprocket fitted. I can't explain why, but it took me 45 minutes just to be sure I wasn't stripping the bolts; they kept wanting to go in at some crazy angle.
When done, readjust the valve clearances to .010.
To test your work, your distributor rotor should point at pushrod tube number 1 when you are at TDC AT THE COMPRESSION STROKE, and at that point the timing marks will be aligned, if you have them.
Don't forget. Never do any of this until you've first properly torqued all of the bolts that are inside the timing cover and under the timing sprocket. Recalling a loose bolt in there can propel you back into the garage where others could discover you in a robotic state removing the radiator hoses, the radiator, the front engine brace, the steering rack, front engine pulley and dog bolt, the timing cover, and finally the chain and sprocket, and starting all over again.
Well, I hope that's accurate, and I hope that was your question. I just realized it may not have been. At least I will have created something I can read to myself from time to time.
TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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Perhaps I'm paranoid, but I don't trust cam timing marks. At the very least, I'd double-check using the "no marks" method.
There is a copy of the TR2/3 workshop manual at https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=0B2H2NJt...hNjRi&hl=en . Although the timing details are different, the procedures starting on page 206 should work fine for TR4A.
There is a copy of the TR2/3 workshop manual at https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=0B2H2NJt...hNjRi&hl=en . Although the timing details are different, the procedures starting on page 206 should work fine for TR4A.
trrdster2000
Luke Skywalker
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Try a few hard taps with a hammer while keeping pressure with the puller. The key is rusty.
Wayne
Wayne
TR4nut
Yoda
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You can pull a little better on the hub if you leave the hub extension on, and just back off the dog bolt several turns. Leave the dog bolt as is, put a socket on it to protect it, then take your puller and drive off the socket/dog bolt and the flange of the hub extension. You can at least pull 1/2" or more that way before you run out of threads on the dog bolt. Hope that makes sense - as you found out, don't pull on the pulley.
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What Randy says sounds easy and may be the best approach.
I've left the hub/fan extension attached, as well. I then
try a rubber hammer lightly tapping, to see if the pulley won't just slide off.
If it won't, I happen to have a thick bolt with the head cut off that works perfectly, and provides the lever point for the center of the three arm puller. It slides inside the crank slot without impacting the dog bolt threads. A shaft of steel would work as well.
Next time, I may try Randy's method. I've worried in the past that I might harm the threads in the crank by pushing on them but that may be far-fetched.
Either way, good luck.
I've left the hub/fan extension attached, as well. I then
try a rubber hammer lightly tapping, to see if the pulley won't just slide off.
If it won't, I happen to have a thick bolt with the head cut off that works perfectly, and provides the lever point for the center of the three arm puller. It slides inside the crank slot without impacting the dog bolt threads. A shaft of steel would work as well.
Next time, I may try Randy's method. I've worried in the past that I might harm the threads in the crank by pushing on them but that may be far-fetched.
Either way, good luck.
Did you get it off yet? I use a 3/8" drive extension. I remove the long bolt and insert my extension, which is about 6" long I think. then I used the fan bolt holes to pull. I just used a piece of angle iron or something similar and drilled 2 holes to match the fan, diagonally. Put the metal piece across the extension and use the fan bolts to pull. Use longer bolts if necessary.
Dan B
South Charleston, WV
66 TR4AIRS EFI
80 TR7DHC
Dan B
South Charleston, WV
66 TR4AIRS EFI
80 TR7DHC