TR4/4A TR4A steering coupling warning

[bluemiata90]

I just recently purchased a TR4A that had been sitting for some time. After doing all the usual prestart draining and lubrication, I got it started and running. I drove it around the neighborhood checking the brakes, temp., oil pressure, etc. Everything seemed fine, except the steering was a little tight and sometimes jerky. I checked the front end and found that the ball joints and tie rod ends could use replacement, but not really bad, I replaced then anyways. I added oil to the rack and pinion and it needed it. After all the new stuff, the steering seemed better, but not great. I decided to pull the steering wheel off and see if something was wrong inside the housing. With very little effort, the steering wheel with the steering column come off in my hands. It seems that even though the steering couplings looked good, both were so badly dry rotted that they were not even attached to the steering column. All the bolts and nuts were there and attached, but the rubber had just rotted away around them. I'm glad I didn't go for any long expressway drive to try and test drive it. Word of caution, Check the steering couplings if your TR4A has been sitting or if the steering seems jerky. Anyways, I replaced the couplings with new ones and the steering seems much better. At least I feel save to take it on the road.
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[TRMark]

Yup, sounds like about what happens. The engine in my 63 TR4 needed a rebuild about 10 years ago. While the engine was out I gave the car a good looking over. Between the steering couplings you mentioned (mine about fell apart during diassembly)and worn out suspension parts, the car shouldn't have been on the road.

 

[Alan_Myers]

Hi,

Good catch! That's an important safety item to check!

You probably already know that the steering coupler bolts need to be safety wired and to replace the ground straps in there at the same time.

If those steering column couplers are that worn out, there are very likely some other things equally shot with age, or possibly damaged due to any stiffness or play in the steering.

You might also want to take a good look at the gaiters on the rack to be sure they still keep it sealed from dirt and water.

Other common wear items on the steering are the inner tie rod sockets. Those need new locking tab washers when repaired. Also, the metal bushing in the long end of the R&P unit tends to wear from lack of lubrication, a bit of a hassle to replace since the R&P unit needs to be completely disassembled to push the old bushing out (unless you devise some sort of puller).

Another key steering item that should be inspected is the column mounting bracket right at the firewall. It can crack and then will no longer support the column properly, allows it to flop around.

While in that same area, is there any lateral play of the steering shaft inside the column? If so, the inner rubber bushes need to be replaced. Requires removing the column, cutting of the rubber locking nubs that protrude through two approx. 3/8" holes in the column, pushing the old bushes out and new ones in.

You mentioned tight steering has improved, but you still might want to be sure the vertical links are well lubed. If the large, acme thread it pivots on gets dry, binding can lead to a broken vertical link.

Extra play in the horizontal shaft at the vert link or at the inboard a-arm mounting points might signal it's time for a suspension rebuild.

Look very closely at the R&P mounting brackets, where they are welded to the frame, checking for any cracks. Also inspect the inboard A-arm mounts carefully for any cracks or bends. These mounting points are a weak spot on the 4A and really should be reinforced. There are kits available from the various Triumph vendors to help do this.

You're smart to play it safe!

Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif.
'62 TR4 CT17602L