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TR4/4A TR4A IRS Axle Shafts

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KVH

KVH

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Anyone have a decent picture of the sliding rear axle half-shafts showing how they come apart?

I'm wondering how they come apart, and assume they just slide out and then come apart--but that seems too simple.

thx
 
FWIW, the TR6 half-shafts just pull apart--assuming that you've cut the ties that hold the rubber boots on, that is.

BobH
 
I'm pretty sure the 4A is the same. The Bentley agrees. In addition, they are keyed so they only go back together one way.
 
kvh,

The TR4A half-shafts have 2 differences from the TR6 half-shafts but are functionally interchangeable. The TR4A ones have a threaded cap which keeps the 2 parts from sliding apart. The other difference is that the TR4A ones do not have the rubber boot that protects the inner u-joint.

So once you have the half-shafts out, remove the ties that secure the rubber boot and push the boot out of the way, unscrew the cap and then the shafts will slide apart.

Were you also asking about pulling the half-shafts from the car or just separating the two parts of the half-shaft?

Scott
 
Oh and let me know if you still need a picture. I could take a picture of one of the ugly parts ones that I have.

Scott
 
HerronScott said:
The TR4A half-shafts have 2 differences from the TR6 half-shafts but are functionally interchangeable. The TR4A ones have a threaded cap which keeps the 2 parts from sliding apart. The other difference is that the TR4A ones do not have the rubber boot that protects the inner u-joint.
Click to expand...
That's strange! I wonder why they put the TR6 style in the TR4A workshop manual?
 
Randall,

I took a look in my Bentley at first as well to see if it had a good picture/description and didn't see the caps pictured so I had to run to storage to make sure my memory wasn't playing tricks on me since it's been 25 years. :wink:

The parts half-shafts (actually the original ones from my first TR4A since I used the half-shafts and differential from the inner body donor car when I did the restoration) also had the cap so I knew I wasn't going crazy yet....

I can't imagine why the manual wouldn't show them.

Scott
 
Just one of those things, I guess. Maybe the folks writing the manuals didn't talk to the ones assembling the cars.

The SPC is also pretty explicit about the boot-style shafts, lists the boots & circlips:
 

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Randall,

Maybe some confusion here. The TR4A half-shafts still have a rubber boot over the sliding shaft even with the retaining cap. They don't have a rubber boot protecting the inner u-joint (separate rubber boot) like the TR6 models though.

Here are pictures from my parts half-shaft with the boot on, the boot pulled back and a close up showing the threaded cap.

Note that the TR6 half-shaft would also have a rubber boot (half-boot?) providing some protection for the u-joint to the left in my picture.

dcp_1812.jpg


dcp_1815.jpg


dcp_1814.jpg


The TR4A SPC I have shows an end cup (140750), steel washer (140751) and cork washer (140752) which are probably the parts related to the cap but they are unpictured (of course). I tried to get to the Roadster Factory's web page to see if they showed the parts but they've apparently exceeded their bandwidth limit! :rolleyes:

Scott
 
I think I'll have to remove my rear axle shafts to check them unless there's a better way. Pictures would be great, but no rush.

Both of my rubber boots are cracked and old. It looks like I'll have to pull each side apart in the process of removing them from the car. When the prior owner insalled a Nissan LSD differential the inner flanges used are too large to slide through the trailing arm boss (opening) as a single unit the way the manual states can be done.

I'm trying the track down the cause of a "thump" I'm getting while shifting at high rpms in first and second, as well as a knock I get periodically when first letting the clutch out in first gear.

With the car in the air I was able to detect about an inch of radial play in the driver's side wheel while holding the inner axle shaft tight. Is that normal, or was I detecting something wrong with the inner u-joint or the splined axles?

How much play there is normal?

Another question while I'm at it. Can the driveshaft be removed without removing the inside center transmission cover?

I can see where the driveshaft had to be shortened, and it's very close to the tunnel, like 1/4 inch. I'm wondering how good those u-joints are.

Something is clunking/thumping somewhere, but, again, only on high rpm shifts and on "periodic" first clutch engagements.

As best I can tell, the front and rear bridge mounts for the differential are solid.

Thanks for all the help.
 
WOW, perfect timing and great pictures. We must be working on the same things.

Did you slide those out "intact" by drawing them thru the trailing arm boss? Or did you have to take them out in sections?

Are you replacing those, or rebuilding them. I see "expensive" replacements on Moss, and replacement CV joints from GoodParts.
 
Sorry, I wish I was working on any my cars at this time, but no place to do so yet (getting quotes on a garage though). This was from my parts stash. It did sound like Tom was about to work on the same thing though.

Yes, those were pulled out as is through the trailing arms.

Scott
 
HerronScott said:
Randall,

Maybe some confusion here.
Click to expand...
Yup, my bad. I misread your post to say there was no gaiter covering the slip joint.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]The TR4A SPC I have shows an end cup (140750), steel washer (140751) and cork washer (140752)[/QUOTE]Interesting. My 1st edition does not list those parts. Sounds like you have an updated version, which maybe suggests that the design was updated (or the tech pubs department just didn't get the right information at first).
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:] I tried to get to the Roadster Factory's web page to see if they showed the parts but they've apparently exceeded their bandwidth limit! [/QUOTE]Well, the bandwidth problem seems to be sorted, but no joy on the photos. The cup & cork washer aren't even in their database, and the steel washer is NLS.
 
KVH said:
With the car in the air I was able to detect about an inch of radial play in the driver's side wheel while holding the inner axle shaft tight.
Click to expand...
Sounds way high, to me. On the Stag, that play is just barely detectable.
 
TR3driver said:
Interesting. My 1st edition does not list those parts. Sounds like you have an updated version, which maybe suggests that the design was updated (or the tech pubs department just didn't get the right information at first).
Click to expand...

You are right, mine is listed as second edition and is the current reproduction being sold (Brooklands).

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]Well, the bandwidth problem seems to be sorted, but no joy on the photos. The cup & cork washer aren't even in their database, and the steel washer is NLS. [/QUOTE]

It was sorted out later that evening. I can't imagine TRF being on a plan that would include bandwidth limits so I wonder if someone at their ISP made a little slip in the configuration of their account.

Anyway I found the same results you did regarding the extra parts listed. My guess is since the plate didn't show the parts that they were left out by accident. I'm sure the later TR6 design was a cost reduction since it saved on the extra parts and machining the threads on the one shaft.

Scott
 
TR3driver said:
Sounds way high, to me. On the Stag, that play is just barely detectable.
Click to expand...

I agree, sounds high to me as well.

Scott
 
Do you need to pull the shaft to replace the boot, or can you simply pull the u-joint closest to the Differential to put on the new boot?
 
I'm pretty sure you are going to need to pull the half-shaft to replace the boot especially if you have the original ones with the screw cap. Once you have the wheel and brake drum off it's just another 6 nuts holding it on after disconnecting it from the differential.

Scott
 
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