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TR4/4A TR4A Front Suspension Rebuild

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Stinger

Stinger

Jedi Hopeful
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Ok, Im not trying to make a 100 point show car just a weekend around town driver. I have what I think is a low mileage TR4A and have only been replacing the parts that are bad or broken. The alignment shop said I had a bad ball joint and upper bushings on one side. Like I mentioned Ive only been replacing the bad stuff and hate to just replace one ball joint yet I hate to replace everything so what would be the minimal amount of replacement parts without rebuilding the whole front end? I was thinking about replacing the 2 ball joints,8 upper bushings,4 lower bushings,4 spring washers, and 2 outer tie rods. Thanks in advance for your comments.
 
Up to you, but that seems like a lot to replace, just because upper bushings & one ball joint are bad.

I might be tempted to double-check the ball joint, as they usually last a lot of miles. But the rubber bushings deteriorate with time, so they probably are shot. Replacing just the stuff on top is a lot simpler than having to disassemble the entire suspension, to get to the ones on the bottom.
 
It is a fair amount of work to do the lowers but it is not hard - just tedious. You need to buy the Moss spring compressor but that's it for tools. I would do them all and switch to (poly)urethane. Urethane lasts longer but it will be a bit less comfortable.

George
 
motek999 said:
You need to buy the Moss spring compressor
Click to expand...
Or build your own

Springcompressor.jpg


PS if you replace the tie rod ends, you'll also need to do an alignment afterwards (or have someone do it for you). Probably a good idea anyway, but if it wasn't readjusted after the bushings started to wear, it's probably still good.
 
Thanks for the tips. Think Ill recheck whats really worn out and whats not. Can the ball joints, upper bushings, and tie rod ends be replaced without removing the springs?
 
Yes, the springs do not have to be compressed or removed to do those items, the main reason why the uppers are a much easier job.
 
I found the 6-Tech manuals Brosky posted on his site to be invaluable when I rebuilt my front end last year:

https://www.74tr6.com/6-tech.htm

It goes through the various front suspension jobs and lets you decide which ones you want/need to do.

That with the Bentley manual and a small dose of Haynes, I think I did pretty good.

I chose to go through everything, but the "fix only what you need to" approach is very appealing for many reasons, especially if you have a low mileage original car.

I guess it goes without saying that the guys on the forum will help you through stuff as you move forward.

If you have not already, please share a photo of your car. I can always look at 4As.

Good luck!!
 
CinneaghTR said:
but the "fix only what you need to" approach is very appealing for many reasons, especially if you have a low mileage original car.
Click to expand...
Or if you have limited time, money, space to work, etc.

Seems like I've always been short of something. When I was younger I had time but no money, now I've got money but no time. Changing the upper bushings is something you can do in a morning and take a drive in the afternoon (which is a Good Thing since they used to only last me a year or less before I switched to Nylatron).
 
Randal,

where did you source the pate used on your spring compressor ?
 
TonyPanchot said:
where did you source the pate used on your spring compressor ?
Click to expand...
Out of my junk box!
grin.gif

I think maybe it was originally a generator pulley half from an air cooled VW, but I'm not certain ... I've never owned one and have no explanation as to how it turned up in my junk box :crazyeyes:

But all it takes is a reasonably stout bar. My local Home Depot sells some steel stakes (for supporting concrete forms) that would do quite well; cut to length & drilled.
 
So I have a differnent POV here - and this is worth what you paid for it - but just do it all at one shot with poly and be done with it. If there are bushings already going can the others be that far behind? I doubt they are locating the suspension as well as they could/should at this point.
 
It is certainly worth checking everything over very carefully whilst it is apart. The trunions and vertical link should be checked wear. It would be a shame to put it back together and then discover there is some play in the system somewhere!
 
Since we are on the subject of TR4A front suspension rebuilds, how big of a job is it to simply swap in new front shocks?

Are they a straight-forward bolt-out, bolt-in?

Bob
 
And while we are stealing the tread I plan on rebuilding my steering and front suspension this winter. Thoughts on whether the rubber stuff now produced for it is good enough? I'm not racing her soon and just want to get everything snugged up for a better driving experience.
 
Guess Ill check everything out and make a decision. Here are a couple of pics. It is a driving project. The paint was partially stripped when I got it so paint will be next after I sort out the front suspension. I was lucky to find a 4A that is about 95% rust free. I'm trying to keep it as original as possible so the door jams,trunk, under hood and the grill blackout will still have its original paint. It has about four small workable dents and all the panels are very straight.

IMG_2431.jpg


IMG_2432.jpg
 
tdskip said:
If there are bushings already going can the others be that far behind?
Click to expand...
Sure. The lower bushings are nylon, which will last basically forever except for wear or rust. Only the upper bushings are rubber, which deteriorates with age (and even faster if they get contaminated with grease or oil). IMO, saying you should replace one because of the other is like saying you should replace the wheels when the tires are worn out.
 
Stinger, nice car, lucky you. If you are close to Salisbury, I'll be glad to come look and give you a hand.

Wayne
 
That is a nice little car!! Thank you for sharing!

Definitely contact the TCOC and/or take Wayne up on his generous offer. It has been so long since I left the Piedmont of NC so I only know of the shops that advertise in the magazines, but I am always pleasantly surprised that British/Import mechanics still persevere. If I was closer, I would help, too!

Good luck!
 
TR3driver said:
tdskip said:
If there are bushings already going can the others be that far behind?
Click to expand...
Sure. The lower bushings are nylon, which will last basically forever except for wear or rust. Only the upper bushings are rubber, which deteriorates with age (and even faster if they get contaminated with grease or oil). IMO, saying you should replace one because of the other is like saying you should replace the wheels when the tires are worn out.
Click to expand...

So to be fair I am only taking from the experience of rebuilding my TR6 and TR4A, and I am known to buy crappy cars, but personally I have found that the other bushings and trunnion bits needed attention as well. Not trying to pick a fight here, just based my observation on personal experience.

I'm all for avoiding unnecessary work. :laugh:

If you do replace the shocks / sway bar mounts I'd strongly suggest those are poly as well. I had a set of shock mounts start to crumble after only 12 months of being on the TR6 while sitting in a garage, unused, with only moderate temperatures.
 
When I did mine, the more I took apart, the more I found needed replacing. The TR4A's lower arms had ridiculously worn to a point where the openings were actually oblong.
Saved this one for the memories.
LowerArm003.jpg
 
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