TR4/4A TR4A floor replacement

[PeterK]

I purchased a series of Practical Classics magazines from the UK that cover various body panel replacements on the 4A. It's a nice series written specifically for a TR4A that they were restoring in the 80s.

In a nutshell, their approach to floor and sill replacement was to section the tub into front and rear, assemble and mount the floor & sills on the chassis, and reinstall the front and rear tub sections using the door gap as alignment indicators. When I think about it, I am driving the chassis while sitting in the tub so the only critical factor is getting door & panel alignment correct.

I have heard about others doing it this way but what do you think? Would it be easier to just do one floor/sill side at a time or bite the bullet and cut it apart and build new?

 

[tdskip]

This is not the voice of experience here so YMMV, but my guess is that even though the tub can be removed that it might be better to do one at a time while on the frame.

Again, this is not the voice of experience but I have this idea in my head that the way the TR4a floor pans sit it would be best to approach it that way.

I'd make sure to get more seasoned opinions before relying on me!

 

[TR4nut]

That's the technique Mark Macy used on his TR4 - he has a great photo documentary of it in case you haven't seen it:

Macy's Garage Webpage

I will need to tackle this at some point on my 64 TR4 - without parts, ability, or the car in question at hand it'll be a while though!

Randy.

 

[PeterK]

Thanks Randy,

I saw that on Mark's site too and it intrigued me so I rounded up the PC mags for a bit more detail. It seems extreme at first glance, but also much simpler to get each side adjusted properly. Just for s&gs, I laid out my new floor pans on the chassis and it really might be a promising way to do the floors. Of course, it helps to have the car totally apart (except for the refinished chassis.)

Peter

 

[Alan_Myers]

Hi Peter,

That Macy's Garage link shows a TR4, not a TR4A. Big difference when replacing body panels. Due to it's flexier chassis, the 4A is usually recommended to be repaired "body on" the frame. With careful bracing, much TR4 body repair can usually be done off the frame.

 

[TR6oldtimer]

In my opinion, and from some experience with a TR6, if you are not an experienced body man, I would not cut the tub into two pieces.

By doing one side at a time, you retain the other side for reference as well as having only half or less variables to deal with. Additionally, to reduce the number of variables even more, I would replace only one panel at a time.

While the body on method is often mentioned, I found that body on means on chassis when fitting panels. You will need to lift the body to remove the old floor, and prepare and fit the new so be sure to brace the door openings well and in a fashion that will allow the doors to be fitted. Take a lot of pictures and measurements. The "A" post WILL sag and move inward or outward on you. Be prepared fit the fenders and doors frequently during the repairs.

Lastly, the outer sills now available are no where near ready for installation without considerable hammer and dolly work. So before you start, be sure you have all the parts and that the work needed to cleanup the new sills are within you skill set.

Good luck

 

[Don Elliott]

Whether you do it one side at a time or do a total body-off, make sure that you place your jack stands directly in line or under the front and rear axles. This will simulate the car being on its tires on the floor or road. Then you adjust your panels for fit and gap. When it's all welded together and finished and you put the wheels back on and lower the car, your gaps will stay correct as they were up on the jack stands. If you place the stands somewhere else, when you lower the car, the chassis will sag diferently and your gaps will not be correct.

 

[PeterK]

Whether you do it one side at a time or do a total body-off, make sure that you place your jack stands directly in line or under the front and rear axles.

Why wouldn't I just let the chassis sit on all 4 tires when I fit the body. Seems much easier to leave it on the tires than to jack up 4 corners and level it. Am I missing something here?

 

[PeterK]

Hi Alan,

The Pratical Classics mag articles are on a 67 4A, that's why I was interested. The do a complete restoration over a year of issues.

From what I've seen of a TR4, the TR4 and TR4A bodies are nearly identical. Mine has been supported since I removed it years ago and my inner and outer sills are solid. But they've been repaired a couple of times so I will replace them with the floors. If they were rotten, I would worry more about tub flex, but not chassis. I would be quite suprised if my 4A chassis will flex very much sitting in my garage. Probaby a good idea to support the t-shirt area and under the doors with something to keep the whole chassis level though. I still doubt a 300lb tub w/doors would flex the frame much if any at all.

I am starting to think the cutting method is beyond my jig building desires. You'd have to be da*n good (or at least better than me) to get all the pieces fitting correctly.

Thanks for the help everyone. Probably ask more when I get to work on it - my tub is down the road in my neighbors barn while I work on the 3A suspension this winter.

 

[TR6oldtimer]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]Why wouldn't I just let the chassis sit on all 4 tires when I fit the body. Seems much easier to leave it on the tires than to jack up 4 corners and level it. Am I missing something here? [/QUOTE]

When you go to put the outer sills on, you will find it much easier to work on if the car is 16-24 inches off the ground. I place my car on wooden blocks under the wheels to get the proper height.

 

[PeterK]

I have a 4 post lift so I guess that will do well for me.