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I want to replace the dash pad on my TR4.To do so requires the removal of the windscreen .Haynes says to "slacken the mounting bracket securing bolts (16,17)".I can't figure out how to even get at them.By this time I should know the answer "it won't be easy ".Any insight would be appreciated. Thanks
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TR4/4A TR4 Windscreen Removal
- Thread starter joejoecat
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Simon TR4a
Jedi Knight
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There are three clips in plain view across the top of the dash which you must remove first.
Next, each side of the screen continues as a "leg" down into the area at the side of the dash. The ends of the legs are threaded and you must remove the nuts, which is a bit fiddly.
Also, there are short bolts in the door shuts behind the front mudguard/fender, which I think must be loosened IIRC.
Finally, the screen will be sealed with tarry black stuff so you have to break the seal to lift the screen.
The dash pad is glues in place and a lot of scraping will be required to clean up the surface-luckily this job is not needed frequently.
Next, each side of the screen continues as a "leg" down into the area at the side of the dash. The ends of the legs are threaded and you must remove the nuts, which is a bit fiddly.
Also, there are short bolts in the door shuts behind the front mudguard/fender, which I think must be loosened IIRC.
Finally, the screen will be sealed with tarry black stuff so you have to break the seal to lift the screen.
The dash pad is glues in place and a lot of scraping will be required to clean up the surface-luckily this job is not needed frequently.
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I removed mine not all that long ago. It was quite tricky.
First, having a manual is always a joy. I hope you have the "Standard Triumph" Workshop Manual.
a) Remove the dash hardware that fastens the windshield to the dash scuttle, the three chrome bolts, etc.
b) Remove the nuts from the bottom of the posts in each wheel well. Easy.
c) Loosen the two bolts visible on each side, 4 total, when each door is opened. You'll see the bolts there, and be careful not to strip the heads.
d) The Manual says you can now pull the windshield up. You can't. With the lower nuts removed, and the two bolts on each side loosened, you're still nowhere if you have the typical TR4. The frame posts will be frozen by stubborn age into the slots on the two mounting brackets. Pulling the windshield may well be fruitless (unless luck lends a hand).
e) Use liberal amounts of WD-40 or penetrating oil, avoiding ruining your carpet or paint. Then, assuming I'm correct that loosening the side bolts did nothing, you should actually remove those side bolts, careful not to lose any hardware, and with a wrench or other tool, perhaps with a rag to avoid ugly marring of the steel, rotate those oiled up mounting brackets back and forth, back and forth on the windshield posts until they actually slip around a bit. Then either just slide the brackets off, and with a helper pull the windshield evenly out of the car, or reinstall the brackets loosely with the bolts again, and then remove the windshield with a helper.
This is just a long way of saying that those side brackets (post holsters) are a hassle after age, and you'll need to be creative.
Good luck.
First, having a manual is always a joy. I hope you have the "Standard Triumph" Workshop Manual.
a) Remove the dash hardware that fastens the windshield to the dash scuttle, the three chrome bolts, etc.
b) Remove the nuts from the bottom of the posts in each wheel well. Easy.
c) Loosen the two bolts visible on each side, 4 total, when each door is opened. You'll see the bolts there, and be careful not to strip the heads.
d) The Manual says you can now pull the windshield up. You can't. With the lower nuts removed, and the two bolts on each side loosened, you're still nowhere if you have the typical TR4. The frame posts will be frozen by stubborn age into the slots on the two mounting brackets. Pulling the windshield may well be fruitless (unless luck lends a hand).
e) Use liberal amounts of WD-40 or penetrating oil, avoiding ruining your carpet or paint. Then, assuming I'm correct that loosening the side bolts did nothing, you should actually remove those side bolts, careful not to lose any hardware, and with a wrench or other tool, perhaps with a rag to avoid ugly marring of the steel, rotate those oiled up mounting brackets back and forth, back and forth on the windshield posts until they actually slip around a bit. Then either just slide the brackets off, and with a helper pull the windshield evenly out of the car, or reinstall the brackets loosely with the bolts again, and then remove the windshield with a helper.
This is just a long way of saying that those side brackets (post holsters) are a hassle after age, and you'll need to be creative.
Good luck.
My problem is "loosen the two bolts" On my car the bolts are not visible when the doors are open. It appears I will have to lay on my back on the floor reach up blindly in a very tight area with some kind of wrench (not knowing the size) and try to loosen them.Not a job for a 61 year old with a bad back and a shorter temper.It seems even the hard jobs are harder on my car!It's still a heck of a lot of fun to drive so I keep plugging away.
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JoeJoe
About those bolts on each side. It can't be true that those bolts are missing. They are hard to find. When the door in open, they are way up top, and almost behind the body fittings. I think I used a 1/2 box wrench to get to them. I think all TR4s are the same in that regard. I can't recall, but to rotate those brackets, to loosen them after oiling them, I may have removed another bolt on the inside that requires an upside down acrobatic maneuver leaving you in an extremely vulnerable position.
To get into that position, slide the seats way back and toss pillows on the floor boards ahead of the seats. Even a bad back might work with that. I strongly recommend that you also do this with two other items of assistance: 1) a flashlight, preferably one that straps to your head; and 2) a magnifying glass, even one that straps to your head as well (hobby shops sell them). When in close quarters like that, your eyes won't focus on a bolt two inches from your nose, and light will be imperative.
It's tight, but it can be done until you're about 99.
See Pic below:
Good luck.
About those bolts on each side. It can't be true that those bolts are missing. They are hard to find. When the door in open, they are way up top, and almost behind the body fittings. I think I used a 1/2 box wrench to get to them. I think all TR4s are the same in that regard. I can't recall, but to rotate those brackets, to loosen them after oiling them, I may have removed another bolt on the inside that requires an upside down acrobatic maneuver leaving you in an extremely vulnerable position.
To get into that position, slide the seats way back and toss pillows on the floor boards ahead of the seats. Even a bad back might work with that. I strongly recommend that you also do this with two other items of assistance: 1) a flashlight, preferably one that straps to your head; and 2) a magnifying glass, even one that straps to your head as well (hobby shops sell them). When in close quarters like that, your eyes won't focus on a bolt two inches from your nose, and light will be imperative.
It's tight, but it can be done until you're about 99.
See Pic below:
Good luck.
What nobody has mentioned is where you can pry on the bugger to get it to "pop"
Remove the fuzzy seal and look at the pinch weld on the frame where it butts up to the cowl pinch weld, a putty knife and a screw driver will only do very minor damage on these easily repaired strong points.Use force carefully and evenly with lots of GOOD penetrating oil(anything but the 40 stuff)on the mounts down in the door post(they are tappered and rusty)
MD(mad dog)
Remove the fuzzy seal and look at the pinch weld on the frame where it butts up to the cowl pinch weld, a putty knife and a screw driver will only do very minor damage on these easily repaired strong points.Use force carefully and evenly with lots of GOOD penetrating oil(anything but the 40 stuff)on the mounts down in the door post(they are tappered and rusty)
MD(mad dog)