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General TR TR4/TR250 for 1st classic - discussion

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Newoldguy

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Hey TR experts/fans,
New user here and admin suggested I might post here for your insight, and possibly lively engagement. I've retired recently and have spent the last 4-5 months bouncing around the web in consideration of finally scratching my British car itch. I've wanted a Triumph roadster since I was 17 and am now looking to close the deal. While there are a number of choices, given my goals:
  • driving to the golf course
  • out do dinner with my wife
  • driving around the shore
  • not very much highway driving - could probably get by without OD
  • coffee & cars, maybe a local, downtown evening show
and mechanical capabilities:
  • can hold the right end of a screwdriver
  • could gap and change a sparkplug level type work
  • and most importantly - able to (recommendations welcome) find an expert Triumph shop near me (central to south NJ)
Given this, I've narrowed it down to the TR4 - TR6 range of options. I attended Britfest in NJ last month to see and talk to some owners in person and really
found myself drawn to the rounder form and interior of the TR4/TR250. I understand the basic differences and did go through the similar threaded topic here re. TR4, TR4A, IRS, vs 250 etc but really interested in thoughts on ownership, experiences and your insights.

Searching for something previously restored, being aware of rust concerns, best conditioned car budget will allow, etc...

TR4 or TR250?

TIA!
 
Hi Newoldguy,

Welcome to BCF! I was in a similar situation as you - looking for my first new old car, and settled on a TR4A. The car I bought required a complete restoration - everything "worked", but barely. My background was similar to yours; I can follow directions and had restored a 1965 Vespa. However, I lack the experience and the associated "gut" for getting things right - so I spend lots more time than others! My journey: https://www.britishcarforum.com/community/threads/tr4a-assembly-by-a-rookie-me.125657/

The TR4-250 is mechanically decently simple, but like many cars of the era, it has a distributor with points and coils, there are two carburetors to tune/synchronize, and electrical gremlins galore if the wiring has been kludged. Having said that, I had no electrical issues, but that was largely a result of taking the time to make sure things were right to begin with (tight and clean connections, protected with dielectric grease, etc.).

In terms of specific car, the old adage applies: "buy the best you can afford". (Unless you really know what you are doing.) I have since sold the TR and bought a 1971 MB. I paid north of 10k and since spent 3k getting it "right". A friend bought a similar car for 5k and has spent 20 since. YMMV, as they say.

With that in mind, considering the TR250, 4A, and 4: The 250 is the most expensive (by quite a bit). The 4 probably the least expensive, but I'm not sure the delta between the 4 and 4A. Visually some prefer the simplicity of the 4, others (e.g. me) like the added "bling" of the 4A. Any Triumph without OD will be less expensive, but it is really nice to have (and helps with the resale). You can buy a replacement OD transmission from folks like Quantum Mechanics.

Once you find the car, get a good set of books: the blue repair manual, the spare parts catalog, and the Roger Piggot book is a great resource to help. (The Triumph documentation is head-and-shoulders above what is available for Mercedes. Better quality photographs in the maintenance manuals. The parts manual contains exploded views of each component and lists part numbers down to every nut and washer - it makes a huge difference!!)

Good luck!
 
Your best resource for tech support is the local car clubs….and both of these have good websites. Positive Earth Drivers Club is located near the mid-Jersey shore area. The British Motor Club of Southern New Jersey is based in Burlington Cty…..they meet monthly in Mt Laurel (I believe) and they have a tech team, which includes a very experienced, but now retired, master mechanic, to assist owners with their cars. They will be able to refer you to specialty shops if necessary. Good luck!
 
Hey TR experts/fans,
New user here and admin suggested I might post here for your insight, and possibly lively engagement. I've retired recently and have spent the last 4-5 months bouncing around the web in consideration of finally scratching my British car itch. I've wanted a Triumph roadster since I was 17 and am now looking to close the deal. While there are a number of choices, given my goals:
  • driving to the golf course
  • out do dinner with my wife
  • driving around the shore
  • not very much highway driving - could probably get by without OD
  • coffee & cars, maybe a local, downtown evening show
and mechanical capabilities:
  • can hold the right end of a screwdriver
  • could gap and change a sparkplug level type work
  • and most importantly - able to (recommendations welcome) find an expert Triumph shop near me (central to south NJ)
Given this, I've narrowed it down to the TR4 - TR6 range of options. I attended Britfest in NJ last month to see and talk to some owners in person and really
found myself drawn to the rounder form and interior of the TR4/TR250. I understand the basic differences and did go through the similar threaded topic here re. TR4, TR4A, IRS, vs 250 etc but really interested in thoughts on ownership, experiences and your insights.

Searching for something previously restored, being aware of rust concerns, best conditioned car budget will allow, etc...
TR4 or TR250?

TIA!
I love my TR4As. Yes, I have more than one. Great engines. Great reliability. Tough as nails. Built to last. Remember when everyone thought MGs would outlive Triumphs? Well, they've both held their own, but compare the worldwide posts on this forum and you may be in for a surprise.

Easy to work on, easy to learn from, great Shop Manual--in fact, incomparable, one of the most amazingly complete and understandable manuals imaginable. Love the "Michelotti" Italian styling of TR4--4A. Great history and lore.

Parts availability maybe near the best of all British cars. As you can see, I'm not the least bit impartial. If you'd ask me, I'd say go find the best 4A anywhere, and make it even better by caring for it, restoring it and regularly paging through the Catalogues from Moss and BPNW.

And remember a "sort of" golden rule. We can all learn to fix mechanical things, and even rebuild engines. But LBC sheet metal is precious. Find a good straight body--good sheet metal--and it will mean a lot in the years to come.

I still remember the guy who sold me my first 4A. I was stressing over the brakes and some suspension issues. He looked at me with a giant grin and said, "Come on, anyone handy can fix and improve those sorts of things with a bit of patience and know how, and all the parts are available at the snap of your fingers; but look at this British car body, the hood, the fenders the doors. These are the things that are rare. The things that cost, and that require greater know-how than other aspects of restoration. Think hard before passing this one up."

Gosh, was he right! And BTW, this forum is the greatest asset to anyone owning a Triumph, and I say that with equal enthusiasm for all models, though it seems there's a great wealth of knowledge by some old-timers who know TR2s, TR3s, TR4s and TR6s.

Good luck.

PS I'd probably go for the solid axle TR4A over anything else if you've already decided on a 4 or 4A. The 4A is just a bit more stylish with side markers, wood dash, improved console, and all, but it also has upgrades to the suspension, ball joints. lever shocks, etc. An IRS is great, too, but I'd definitely want to strengthen up the rear spring bridge with the aid of advice and parts from Richard Good at Goodparts. I did exactly that, adding new steel welds, gussets, and support pieces to strengthen the rear suspension components. I was lucky because a friend did the welding at his shop as a favor for me. I cut the support pieces with an angle grinder, maybe about ten pieces. Only took a day after prep (removing differential, shocks and springs, cleaning frame, etc.). But it was Richard Good who explained where to apply and weld. For my IRS, I even have CV axles and an upgraded differential from Goodparts. > About | Good Parts <
 
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I have both a TR4 and a faux TR250 [TR4A with Triumph 6 cyl engine].
TR6 will ride nicer than the TR4 due to the different body and 6 cyl....IRS chassis are problematic.
Have you considered a Jaguar MK2...much nicer car to drive and much more comfortable.
 
I have both a TR4 and a faux TR250 [TR4A with Triumph 6 cyl engine].
TR6 will ride nicer than the TR4 due to the different body and 6 cyl....IRS chassis are problematic.
Have you considered a Jaguar MK2...much nicer car to drive and much more comfortable.
One strong thing to consider is your comfort in the car. I am tall (6'2") with long legs. I have a TR4 and TR3. The gear shift surround in the 4A takes up a lot of leg room for a tall person. And the TR6 is even worse. I can not comfortably drive a TR6.
The seats in a TR6 are better than the TR3, 4 or 4A. For me mostly because of the reclining feature.
For maintenance the TRs get more complicated from the TR3 on up. With a big jump between the TR4/4A/250 and the TR6.
I am not aware of additional size comforts in the TR6 as the TR4 and 6 share (with small changes) items like the windshield, doors and floors.
Charley
 
I am now down from almost 6' 3". Which I was when I got my first TR3A in college. Since then I have owned a TR3B( given to my son and grand daughter now), and presently own 2 TR4s and a TR3A. All are driven regularly. That covers my 60 years of TR/LBC's.
Charley
 
I’ve had at least one TR4 for 54 years, so not quite as long. I still mess up once in awhile and forget or neglect doing something just right. Great cars either way. As age advances I drive ever more carefully. But there’s still some huge black or gray pickup truck on my rear end almost every day.
 
The spring rates on the IRS cars are poorly chosen and that suspension also has a few other quirks. I always preferred the beam axle cars despite their habit of having the axle bottom on the frame under hard cornering.
 
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