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Another question for the experts. My 63 TR4 has a good amount of play in the steering rack. Not from the steering wheel, from inside the left front fender I can see play near the inner ball joint? by moving the tire L/R. I suspect that would be play in the inner ball joint. My question is: Should I attempt to rebuild/add shims to the rack myself -- or -- should I find a rebuilt or replacement rack? Does a TR4A..TR6 Rack fit? Thanks everyone. I enjoy reading and learning from all these threads!! Alex in NY.
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TR4/4A TR4 Steering Rack - play
- Thread starter MrAlex
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Alan_Myers
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Hi,
First, refer to the serial number of your car. If it is CT20064 (early 1963 manufacture) or under, it should have the solid, aluminum steering rack mounts. CT20065 and later have TR4-style rubber mounts (unless someone converted the later style to use solid aluminum mounts, which is not uncommon). These two R&P units are not directly interchangeable.
The earlier rack mounts are easiest to work with. They are simply held in place by a couple u-bolts. Check that those are secure. The later mounts are in rubber and those can shrink, get brittle, break, etc. The later mounts require spreading to install or remove, with a special tool or some homemade arrangment.
If the mounts are secure (either type), and you see play on primarily the left side, I can think of three possibilities. One is that the outer ball joint is worn. Another is that the inner ball joint is worn. The other is play in the rack & pinion itself, due to wear or misadjustment.
First try to determine if play is coming from the outer ball joint, where it connects to the arm coming off the back of the king pin. If that's reasonably okay, continue on.
Next, consider the inner ball joint. It's under the rubber boot. It's captured in a cup-shaped nut that's secured by a tab washer to prevent loosening. Inside that is the ball, which has a tensioner inboard (that keeps it tightly pressed into the large cup-shaped nut). The ball is not prone to wear, but the tensioner is. It's also cup-shaped. Originally it was made of aluminum. Replacement parts are commonly nylon and don't seem to last as long. Behind this tensioner is a spring and shims designed to eliminate play in the joint. Changing the shims might reduce or eliminate the play. The spring might go soft of be broken, too. If you get inside this joint, be sure to replace the tab washer that secures the outer nut. Wouldn't want that coming loose while out on the highway!
If you eliminate the inner and outer balljoints, what's left is the rack & pinion itself. The tension adjustment on top might take up some play, by changing the thickness of shims under the large cap nut (the one with the grease fitting in it). But, a neglected rack & pinion can wear and there are also bushings that the pinion gear rides on that could be worn. There is one in the top, where the shaft comes out to attach to the steering column, and another in the bottom opposite the steering column. If these are worn, you would likely feel a lot of grating in the steering as you turn the column.
One of the most common wear parts is actually on the righthand side. There is a bushing inside the long tube, in which the rack itself rides. This often seems the first thing to need attention, especially if lubrication was ever neglected. It's not difficult to replace and is pretty easily sourced from any of the usual suppliers, but does require complete disassembly of the entire steering unit. If I were doing major work on any other parts of the R&P that required significant disassembly, I think I'd always go ahead and replace this bushing just as a precaution.
It's not hard to see how it all works, if you take it slow and disassemle it. However, some parts are hard to get. I don't know of a supplier for the pinion gear or the lower bushing it rides in. Not knowing your level of mechanical skill, it's hard to recommend whether a rebuilt unit would be your best bet or not. Certainly, good and reliable steering is important! So, a professionally rebuilt unit might offer more peace of mind. New and rebuilt later style units seem pretty widely available. The early type might be a little harder to find (maybe The Roadster Factory is rebuilding them, or can rebuild yours for you).
I hope this helps with your decision.
P.S. I just noticed item #7940079285 on eBay. URL: https://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayIS...;category=33589 This is the later style rack, for cars CT20065 and on through the TR6. Notice the two flanges: one cast into the pinion housing (near the steering shaft attachment) and the other on the tube at the right near the boot. The CT20064 and earlier rack does not have these. The early R&P has holes that interface with pins in the mounting brackets, to properly locate the assmebly in the car. Finally, the mounting on the frame of the car is quite different: two horns that stick upwards on the early style, flat brackets on the later. The very earliest frames (1961-ish) with the horns did not have a gusset reinforcement tied over to the inner front suspension bracket. This is a common breaking point on the earliest TR4 frames. Your car, being a 1963, should have the gussets, if it's the earlier style R&P mount.
First, refer to the serial number of your car. If it is CT20064 (early 1963 manufacture) or under, it should have the solid, aluminum steering rack mounts. CT20065 and later have TR4-style rubber mounts (unless someone converted the later style to use solid aluminum mounts, which is not uncommon). These two R&P units are not directly interchangeable.
The earlier rack mounts are easiest to work with. They are simply held in place by a couple u-bolts. Check that those are secure. The later mounts are in rubber and those can shrink, get brittle, break, etc. The later mounts require spreading to install or remove, with a special tool or some homemade arrangment.
If the mounts are secure (either type), and you see play on primarily the left side, I can think of three possibilities. One is that the outer ball joint is worn. Another is that the inner ball joint is worn. The other is play in the rack & pinion itself, due to wear or misadjustment.
First try to determine if play is coming from the outer ball joint, where it connects to the arm coming off the back of the king pin. If that's reasonably okay, continue on.
Next, consider the inner ball joint. It's under the rubber boot. It's captured in a cup-shaped nut that's secured by a tab washer to prevent loosening. Inside that is the ball, which has a tensioner inboard (that keeps it tightly pressed into the large cup-shaped nut). The ball is not prone to wear, but the tensioner is. It's also cup-shaped. Originally it was made of aluminum. Replacement parts are commonly nylon and don't seem to last as long. Behind this tensioner is a spring and shims designed to eliminate play in the joint. Changing the shims might reduce or eliminate the play. The spring might go soft of be broken, too. If you get inside this joint, be sure to replace the tab washer that secures the outer nut. Wouldn't want that coming loose while out on the highway!
If you eliminate the inner and outer balljoints, what's left is the rack & pinion itself. The tension adjustment on top might take up some play, by changing the thickness of shims under the large cap nut (the one with the grease fitting in it). But, a neglected rack & pinion can wear and there are also bushings that the pinion gear rides on that could be worn. There is one in the top, where the shaft comes out to attach to the steering column, and another in the bottom opposite the steering column. If these are worn, you would likely feel a lot of grating in the steering as you turn the column.
One of the most common wear parts is actually on the righthand side. There is a bushing inside the long tube, in which the rack itself rides. This often seems the first thing to need attention, especially if lubrication was ever neglected. It's not difficult to replace and is pretty easily sourced from any of the usual suppliers, but does require complete disassembly of the entire steering unit. If I were doing major work on any other parts of the R&P that required significant disassembly, I think I'd always go ahead and replace this bushing just as a precaution.
It's not hard to see how it all works, if you take it slow and disassemle it. However, some parts are hard to get. I don't know of a supplier for the pinion gear or the lower bushing it rides in. Not knowing your level of mechanical skill, it's hard to recommend whether a rebuilt unit would be your best bet or not. Certainly, good and reliable steering is important! So, a professionally rebuilt unit might offer more peace of mind. New and rebuilt later style units seem pretty widely available. The early type might be a little harder to find (maybe The Roadster Factory is rebuilding them, or can rebuild yours for you).
I hope this helps with your decision.
P.S. I just noticed item #7940079285 on eBay. URL: https://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayIS...;category=33589 This is the later style rack, for cars CT20065 and on through the TR6. Notice the two flanges: one cast into the pinion housing (near the steering shaft attachment) and the other on the tube at the right near the boot. The CT20064 and earlier rack does not have these. The early R&P has holes that interface with pins in the mounting brackets, to properly locate the assmebly in the car. Finally, the mounting on the frame of the car is quite different: two horns that stick upwards on the early style, flat brackets on the later. The very earliest frames (1961-ish) with the horns did not have a gusset reinforcement tied over to the inner front suspension bracket. This is a common breaking point on the earliest TR4 frames. Your car, being a 1963, should have the gussets, if it's the earlier style R&P mount.
G
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I just installed a newly rebuilt rack for my TR6 from The Roadster Factory, $234.00 + core deposit. It's a beaut! The tag on it from TRF said, "TR4-6", so they are the same.
Bill
Bill