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TR4/4A TR4 Steering Rack and Alignment Questions

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KVH

KVH

Obi Wan
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I bought a new rack from Moss. It seems nice. I'll report as I drive.

Some questions:

a) When adjusting the tie rods for "toe-in," should the exposed threads of the rod arm be about the same length on each arm at each end of the rack, indicating symmetry of adjustment? On this new one, the threads seem quite a bit more exposed on one end. Did I mess something up?

b) When adjusting the toe-in by turning the rod arms, after the tie rods are installed, of course, do I leave the car down on its tires or put it back up in the air?

It actually seems easier to leave it on the ground, but I'm not sure about the stress on the suspension.

Thanks.
 
a) More important to have the steering wheel centered when the car is moving straight; let the threads fall where they may.

b) Either way will do. The suspension has to handle a lot more stress than that, so no worries on that account. But either way, be sure to bounce the suspension up and down a few times, so it can settle to operating position again, before re-checking the toe.
 
Thanks Randall. I can't quite imagine where I'd be if I didn't have a Board like this to resort to, and folks like you and the others who quite clearly have tinkered with every obscurity of these old LBCs. It's funny how little choices and decisions can change an entire life. I could've bought that little Fiat back in 1970 and never even known what a slave cylinder, lever shock or crankshaft key was.
 
Kentvillehound said:
I could've bought that little Fiat back in 1970 and never even known what a slave cylinder, lever shock or crankshaft key was.
Click to expand...
Not to mention learning just how reliable Triumphs are!
:devilgrin:
 
Hey, I DID buy that little Fiat back in 1970. Great car but was probably rusting before it ever left the assembly line. Got a TR3A in '72 and saw the light.

On the tie-rods, if your steering wheel is not centered when you are aligned you can, of course, turn each side an equal amount (i.e. shorten one tie rod and lengthen the other) to preserve your alignment but change the steering wheel's straight-ahead position.
 
I had of pair of 850 Spyders too - fun little cars and simple to work on.
 
Actually, I think I have to disagree with the advice here if I understand it right. The most important thing, in my opinion, it is that you get the outer rods sufficiently threaded onto the inner rods. Hopefully that is the case here. I would not sacrifice that just to get the steering wheel straight.

I'm betting you are ok, but just thought I'd chime in because that is a safety issue if you get way out of whack on the threading.

Randy
 
If you primarily drive the car by yourself, you might want to get someone to sit in the drivers seat that weighs the same as you when you do the alignment. Your alignment will be better this way. Roll the car back and forth and bounce the front of the car after each adjustment.
It is best to have an equal amount of thread contact for the tie-rods. You can shift the rack sideways if it is way out, but, the rack ends should be perfectly equal distance on each side from the suspension inner pivot points when the rack is in its mid stroke (centered).
Rob
 
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