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Tips
Tips

TR4/4A TR4 no start

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your meter may be harder to use than a light unless you have an alligator clip adapter to use at the ground. The other advantage to the light is that you can probe the sheath adjacent to a connector if you don't find power at the connector. And, test the light directly on the battery before you use it.
Bob
 
I will check those connections in a bit, thanks! I tightened all connections, checked crimps, etc.. Strange things came to life a bit after redoing the solenoid. Connections look OK, hoping not a short, that brown wire is a nice thicker gauge.
 
Well, think I found the issue. All wires and circuits tested Ok. When car was swapped to neg ground, the ammeter leads are reversed. So now I believe the current goes thru the ammeter first before it hits the ign switch and lights. The Brown/white lead that from to ammeter to control box and then correspondingly to switch and lights as the brown/blue was loose. My only concern with it is the rubber/plastic cover looked discolored like it heated up a tad. Going to have to keep my eye on that. But as of this writing, I have ignition, lights, and horn! Now to reassemble the glove box (so I could see ammeter better without breaking my neck) and radio and ign switch.

Thanks all! I hope I dont have to post again saying something like short at ammeter, burning up, etc...
 
If the connection was loose, it's no surprise that it heated. Almost all of the current from the battery, except, of course, the starter current, goes through the ammeter. Once the connection is fixed, it should not overheat.

I don't understand why the horns didn't work, unless the horn connection was changed to the other side of the ammeter. That's how they are connected on the TR4A, but not the TR4.
 
Sarastro said:
If the connection was loose, it's no surprise that it heated. Almost all of the current from the battery, except, of course, the starter current, goes through the ammeter. Once the connection is fixed, it should not overheat.

I don't understand why the horns didn't work, unless the horn connection was changed to the other side of the ammeter. That's how they are connected on the TR4A, but not the TR4.
Click to expand...
Looking at the stock diagram, I agree about the horns. I have the new solenoid in there still, so maybe the loose connection shorted something in the old one? Something to test on a rainy day... I guess I am lucky that the connection didnt die in traffic.
 
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