TR4/4A TR4 hood issue; also chrome trim question

[Alex_McMillin]

The hood on my newly restored 63 TR4 seems to like to unlatch itself while I'm driving. When I go over a bump or two, BOING, the hood unlatches. Is there an adjustment I can make?

Also, when installing the the chrome trim the goes around the back of the cockpit, is there any protection that goes between the trailing edge of the trim and the body? You know, fresh paint and all, I'd hate to cause any unnecessary damage to the paint.

.............Thanks, Alex

 

[drooartz]

I have this running problem as well with my new-to-me TR4. What I found is that my cause is probably a combination things:

<ul type="square">[*]The hood pin that engages the latch on the car is adjustable. Mine has a slot in the end--with a flat screwdriver you can adjust it in or out. Be careful adjusting it, as folks have warned me that it can damage the hood, especially if it is out too far. I screwed mine out a tad, and it seems to latch better. The advice I got was to go in small increments, maybe a 1/2 turn at a time, and see where it starts to catch better.
[*]My hood release cable was sticky, and the latch was not moving smoothly. I put some oil in my hand and ran it along the cable to lubricate it. The latch works much better now.
[*]My hood is not well aligned--the left side sits a fair side high at the cowl, off of the little rubber bumper. This allows the hood to shake side to side, essentially pivoting on the hood latch. I'm guessing that this is my main cause, since the stress from the pivoting is probably causing the pin to pull out from the latch.
[/list]

These would be the first things I'd try on your car. Since I adjusted the hood pin and oiled the cable, the hood has lost some (but not all) of its auto-opening feature. I'm hoping the bonnet alignment will take care of the rest.

Best of luck to you.

-Drew

 

[Banjo]

I cheated with my bonnett latch. It did the same thing, so I finally replaced the cone bumpers in the corners with racing style hood pins. Viola! no more bonnett popping open and a cool new look.
Of course I'm going to fix it right when I do the restore.I also have a second bonnett thats in better shape to replace the one I had to drill the holes in.
I've worked on a few TR4s and I dont recall any kind of gasket under the cockpit surround. I believe it just rests agenst the paint. (dosent mean you coulden't come up with something)
Good luck. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif

 

[Alan_Myers]

Hi,

Regarding the cockpit trim, I think you could use some of the other types of seam sealers, that are used elsewhere on the body. Check local body shop suppliers. One type comes in a roll, sort of clay-like, and you can shape it as needed. Others come in sqeeze tubes. There are usually white, tan and dark grey or black to choose from.

I can tell you for certain *not* to use any "open cell" foam, such as is used between camper shells and truck beds. That's what I found under the trim on my TR4, and under that rust... right through the paint. This is on a car that has very little rust anywhere else, inside or out.

Any sort of foam seal acts as a sponge and retains moisture in there indefinitely.

Enjoy your 250!

Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif.
'62 TR4 CT17602L

 

[TR4MAN]

You may also want to check if the latching plate is moving freely in the assembly. If it is binding up it won't get a good grab on the pin.

 

[TRMark]

I noticed in the interior pictures of your TR4 on your website that the facia support bracket and facia board are missing. I assume that they were removed for restoration purposes. If these are not present and tightened properly the scuttle will shake quite alot, this may let the hood latch loosen. I found the only way to secure my 63 was to replace the pretty chrome philips screws, which I could never keep tight, with socket head bolts and locking nuts tightened to the point of almost breaking. The socket head looks better than a regular bolt.