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I'm starting to tear out my outer sills on my 63 TR4. My door seal channels are still "there" but no seal. I see in most restoration pics that this outer Door seal and channel is missing. I'd like to hear some opinions on whether I should try to add this channel to my new rocker Panel/ outer Sill or is is std procedure to do away with it since you still have the main seal? Pic is attached.
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TR4/4A TR4 Door Seal channels
- Thread starter MrAlex
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trrdster2000
Luke Skywalker
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Hi MrAlex, As these seals are cheap compared to most things you will be doing it would be a nice touch to keep them. You are right about most do away with them, but right is right and I'm glad to see someone paying that much attention to detail. Wayne
Alex , the early 4 had this channel welded to the rocker ect. When you replace the rockerpanel you can get this channel steel but its not easy to weld. Answer....Glue it on!!!Yes modern bodyshops now glue steel to steel on a daily basis and you can too. I prefer the 3m , others like lord fuser. The deal is you must have clean steel and then put this adhesive on your clean part and clamp it up for several hours. This works really well on something like this little channel since it precludes the rust problems that ate the OE part.
If you go to the latter style seal you will discover it winds up comming across the lower corner of the trimpanel where its not supposed to.......
MD(mad dog)
If you go to the latter style seal you will discover it winds up comming across the lower corner of the trimpanel where its not supposed to.......
MD(mad dog)
Simon TR4a
Jedi Knight
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Alex, I have 2 TR4a bodies in my garage right now, the second is serving as a body/chassis donor after a crash.
Onr reason I chose this particular donor was that I noticed the channel was present and rustfree on both door openings.
Just one sign of many that this was a car that had never been rusty or repaired, or in your case a sign of a quality restoration.
I have removed the rubber door seal, but I think it fitted better with the channel in place.
Simon.
Onr reason I chose this particular donor was that I noticed the channel was present and rustfree on both door openings.
Just one sign of many that this was a car that had never been rusty or repaired, or in your case a sign of a quality restoration.
I have removed the rubber door seal, but I think it fitted better with the channel in place.
Simon.
Alan_Myers
Luke Skywalker
Offline
Hi,
My 62 currently has fiberglass rocker panels on it. Great to avoid rust and about all that was available back in 1979 when I installed them. But there is no way to attach that retaining channel (too small for rivets, plus the heads would interfere). So I used automotive trim adhesive in an effort to keep the rubber seal in place. NOT a good solution! I found myself regluing it about once a year, or just living with the seal flopping around loose much of the time anyway.
Perhaps I could have glued the channel to the fiberglass, I don't know and never tried. The original channels were lost removing the original rusted rockers.
Anyway, I'm in mid-restoration and have steel rockers that will replace the fiberglass. So, I've also got the channel pieces to spot weld in place.
I'd definitely recommend using the channels, whether welded on or glued, as mentioned in an earlier response.
My 62 currently has fiberglass rocker panels on it. Great to avoid rust and about all that was available back in 1979 when I installed them. But there is no way to attach that retaining channel (too small for rivets, plus the heads would interfere). So I used automotive trim adhesive in an effort to keep the rubber seal in place. NOT a good solution! I found myself regluing it about once a year, or just living with the seal flopping around loose much of the time anyway.
Perhaps I could have glued the channel to the fiberglass, I don't know and never tried. The original channels were lost removing the original rusted rockers.
Anyway, I'm in mid-restoration and have steel rockers that will replace the fiberglass. So, I've also got the channel pieces to spot weld in place.
I'd definitely recommend using the channels, whether welded on or glued, as mentioned in an earlier response.