TR4/4A TR4 boot detail questions

[thechileman]

I have a couple of questions about the boot area of the TR4. I found a picture on the internet that shows the boot pretty well, this is NOT my car.


The board that covers the gas tank, I have a new one, there was not one on my car when I purchased it. In this picture the top of the board is on the back, or the gas tank side of the metal lip. Is this correct?? I had planned on placing the board in front of this lip.

The other problem I have is the new Trunk seal I ordered from Moss. My trunk had no seal when it was purchased. with the seal installed there is no way to get the trunk to latch. It is just too thick. I see in this picture that the seal has been trimmed so that it does not run along the bottom. My trunk would probably close if I did that. Is this correct?? Or is there some other solution.

Thanks again for all the help!

 

[Geo Hahn]

You want the lip behind the board that covers the tank area. When you open the trunk/boot you have the option of lifting the 'floor' board before you lower the boot and you can let the rear (now top) edge of the floor board slip behind that horizontal brace on the inside of the boot lid. You can then finish lowering the lid to the latched position and it will hole the board in the 'upright & locked position'. Hard to explain but try it and you'll see.

The seal goes all the way 'round. I had a problem keeping the seal on the bottom edge -- it want to pull off as the lid closed over it. The usual weatherstrip adhesive and contact cement were unable to hold it. What did work was Gorilla Glue (actually the Elmers equivalent). New seals have to have the lid & doors closed on them for quite awhile (possibly months) before the take a 'set' that allows easy closure.

As I recall the boot latch is somewhat adjustable thru some combination of washers & oval holes.

 

[thechileman]

Thanks for the info Geo!! Ill take a look at that seal again.... Maybe an adjustment to the latch as you suggested will get it closed... And good tip on the gorilla glue. Thanks.

 

[Geo Hahn]

Here's a shot of my boot. The is a long notch along the bottom of the board that covers the tank -- that notch captures the lip on the back edge of the floorboard:

From this angle you get a better look at the notch which is edged with metal:

Here you can see how the cross brace can be used to hold the floor board up while you drag out the spare etc:

 

[thechileman]

Awesome! Thanks for the pictures. I see how everything goes together now... Project number 2 for tomorrow! Assemble the boot...

 

[alanjohnturner]

The seals that come from Moss dont have a deep enough groove that goes on the flange to allow the boot to close properly.

You can make the groove deeper with a sharp scalpel blade. Obviously you dont want to go right through so take it easy.

A side benefit tis that this helps the seal stay on better.

Al.

 

[thechileman]

Ill take a look at that alan... Thanks!

 

[alanjohnturner]

Use something to find the "high-spots". Chalk maybe.

On mine it was the section by the light units. The long runs were more or less OK. My seal looks preety much like yours.
They are quite spongy rubber and this is easy to cut. Just lots of v.light stokes with a SHARP scalpel blade.

I fix mine with "double-sided" tape. But an industrial-grade that is very sticky. You put this on the flanges. Both sides.
Then pop the seal on. With slightly a deeper groove this holds fine.

Much easier that liquid glue and easy to remove and redo if something goes wrong without ruining your paint-job. The solvent is what we call "white-spirit" this is about 70% industrial naptha. Sold everywhere for house paint thinning. cheap and not very hazardous.

We a poster on the UK TR-Register forum called Chileman.

Al.