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TR4/4A TR4 Blinkers flashing too quickly?

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SCguy

SCguy

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All my electrical system is new and working, but my blinkers are blinking too fast. A friend said that there was a simple reason... he just couldn't remember what it was. Does anyone know what would cause blinkers to blink too fast. I've tried two relays and my lights all work so I'm assuming that my grounds are OK /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/confused.gif
 
Did it just start or was it like that from the get go? It might be the wrong type or style relay.

You know, we really miss Dan on this forum.
 
My guess would be you've got the wrong flasher, or the voltage stabilizer is bad, or you've got a short.
 
Have you checked the output to the relay and trafficator from the voltage regulator? Just a thought, maybe too much juice? Not sure what it should be but you should be able to find the specs and rule that out quickly.
Also, just another shot in the dark. Usually blinking too quickly in most cars is an indicator of a bad bulb. Are your dash light(s) for the turn/hazard blinking as well? I don't know if a missing or bad dash light could cause this but worth checking I think. It has been a while since I have been in a TR4, but I'm guessing it is similar to the TR3's (chrome bezel single light) or a green or amber light in the speedometer or tachometer. Otherwise I would test the relay itself with a ahm/volt meter to verify it is within the correct range.
 
LED lamps will also do this due to too low of an in -line resistance. However this sounds to me, to be a faulty or incorrect flasher, most likely a faulty one.

What you don't like the <span style="color: #FF6666">strobe</span> effect???
 
Mine did that too; it was the Lucas flasher. I even tried a new Lucas flasher and it dit the same thing.

Then I replaced it with a cheap generic flasher from an auto parts store ($3.00)and the signals flash properly now.

Not sure of the reason but it worked.....
 
The flashers are nothing more than a small bi-mettalic strip. When cold, the end of the strip contacts a base plate, allowing current to flow. This heats the strip which curls (because of the difference in the expansion rate of the two metals). Contact is broken, the bulbs go out, and the strip cools once again to repeat the cycle.

If the total circuit resistance is lower than design spec for the flasher, they will flash rapidly. This can be because one bulb is out, the wrong bulbs are being used, or there is a parallel circuit added (such as a trailer light set). One solution is to buy a heavy duty flasher which will not heat/cool as quickly on the higher current draw. This is most likely why RedTR3 cured his problem.
 
/bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/iagree.gif
John Macartney even reported finding that a wire was corroded inside it's insulation, causing unusual flashing (I forget whether it was fast or slow) only on one side.

The 'heavy duty' flashers are wired differently, with the heater in parallel across the contacts rather than in series. That makes them much less sensitive to bulb current, so they flash normally even with added loads (like trailer lights). It also makes them flash normally with less load, so no indication to the driver when a bulb is burned out.
 
Last time I checked, my FLAPS carried Tridon EL-13 'electronic' flashers, which are not load-sensitive and will work in a TR4. But the thermal (cheap) 'heavy duty' flashers they had would not work right; left the indicator light on all the time.

No mounting tab though, so you may have to improvise there. If you have an existing flasher clip (as I did), be sure to spread it so it gently grips the flasher. Otherwise the plastic case will crack.
 
Just a suggestion, try Moss Motors, Tech Support. They seem to have all the answers, at least for the issues I have encountered. Very helpful staff and willing to do the research as well.

Best Regards,

Brian
 
My TR# tends to eat flashers about once a year +/-. I gutted a Lucas flasher and then split the back of the case with tin snips. A generic $2 flasher will slide right into the old case and looks original, only takes about 5 seconds to change. I carry a spare in my road parts bag but you can get them at any parts store so there really isn't a need for that.
 
Hello all,

just a little guide with reference to one bulb being 'blown', the remaining bulb will stay on permanently, and not flash, as the circuit resistance has been increased by 100% (parallel circuit)

Alec
 
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