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TR4/4A TR4-6 Steering Upgrades

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glemon

glemon

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There have been many discussions of poly bushings and solid steering rack mounts to get better steering feel on our rack and pinion TRs. I did read one post a few weeks ago that got me to thinking (always dangerous) sorry, I don't remember who, but somebody mentioned replacing the top rubber universal in the steering shaft with the solid one from the lower shaft. This sounds to me like it would have more effect on steering feel than the rack bushes. Anyway, I am considering either doing the solid rack mounts or the solid upper mount on the column. I would think from an engineering standpoint the rubber rack mounts would be more important for absorbing shocks and saving stress on the rack than the rubber coupling in the shaft. If you have ever driven a Sprite/Midget you know how precise and direct rack and pinion should feel, trying to get the TR a little closer to that type of steering feel.
 
I can report that after replacing just my upper with a solid TR6 joint, I noticed a massive improvement in feel (along with Arthur Lipp's Delrin column bushings). This winter during the projects I will be replacing the lower with a universal joint as well. I didn't notice any vibrations that were unwelcomed!
 
In my 73 Capri
That change had the biggest effect on the rubbery steering known in those cars
Always wanted to do it in the 6 and constantly asked if anyone had seen a solid version
 
I've replaced both of the rubber joints in my 4A with the solid ones from the TR6, I have solid rack mounts, and even a quick-rack. I love the steering feel!
 
Aren't we talking about the upper coupler?

If not...my bad
 
DNK said:
Aren't we talking about the upper coupler?
Click to expand...

Yes but I thought I would through my 2 cents in as only the 6 cylinder models came with a solid below and the others came with rubber joints. Upgrading 1 made a huge difference, the only remaining play I have left in my rack is due to the remaining lower rubber coupler.
 
DanB said:
In that case, I wonder if a CV type joint could be adapted.
Click to expand...

Probably, the advantage of the TR6 steering u-joint is that it is a perfect fit over the existing shafts.
 
Was warm in the garage yesterday, I finished installing the new rubber rack bushes, I squeezed them up tight against the frame on the sides as mentioned on other threads here (BTW I didn't need any special tool just used a couple vise grips, a little finicky to get them placed right, but easier than fabricating a special tool). Took the car for a drive and the steering felt improved, I also now have an extra solid lower U joint, but it doesn't look like it can be installed without some adapting, the rubber coupling goes on a splined end on one side and bolts to the shaft on the rack side, the U joint is meant to go on splined ends either way. Anybody run across this and if so how did you make it work?
 
glemon said:
Was warm in the garage yesterday, I finished installing the new rubber rack bushes, I squeezed them up tight against the frame on the sides as mentioned on other threads here (BTW I didn't need any special tool just used a couple vise grips, a little finicky to get them placed right, but easier than fabricating a special tool). Took the car for a drive and the steering felt improved, I also now have an extra solid lower U joint, but it doesn't look like it can be installed without some adapting, the rubber coupling goes on a splined end on one side and bolts to the shaft on the rack side, the U joint is meant to go on splined ends either way. Anybody run across this and if so how did you make it work?
Click to expand...

The fitting that appears to be bolted to the shaft on the rack side should also be removable.

Here are some pics from my car:

a6a78dd3.jpg


ab0f0342.jpg
 
Thanks Richie, My intermediate shaft is does not have a splined end like that, I have some old TR4 parts in the basement, and know I had a steering shaft at one time, but might have given them up to friends with TR3s looking for parts for Rack and Pinion conversions.
 
And I was thinking the TR4 lower shaft was shorter than on a TR250 or TR6? Didn't the rack move forward a bit to accommodate the 6 cylinder engine?
 
TR4nut said:
And I was thinking the TR4 lower shaft was shorter than on a TR250 or TR6? Didn't the rack move forward a bit to accommodate the 6 cylinder engine?
Click to expand...

As I recall when I converted my TR4A to use a TR6 lower U-joint, I had to use a TR6 lower shaft.

Scott
 
After reading this thread, I ordered a couple of solid steering joints for the 4A. I put them on last week. The lower joint came off easily because of a bit of oil mist from the front of the engine ( on a British car?? No!) but the upper one needed a large amount of persuasion. I used some Copper Eze on the splines on re-assembly in case I ever have to take them off again. We went for a 300km drive with the Datsun Sports Car Club (who?) last weekend over some very twisty roads. This would have to be one of the best mods you can make to a 4A. The steering was lighter and much more responsive and kickback on our rubbish roads was not an issue. And those Datsun guys travel FAST! We were doing 85mph at one point just to keep up.
 
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