• Hey Guest!
    British Car Forum has been supporting enthusiasts for over 25 years by providing a great place to share our love for British cars. You can support our efforts by upgrading your membership for less than the dues of most car clubs. There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Upgraded members don't see this banner, nor will you see the Google ads that appear on the site.)
Tips
Tips

TR2/3/3A TR3B Rear Handbrake Cables

Share this page

af3683

af3683

Jedi Trainee
Country flag
Offline
I replaced the handbrake cable from the lever to the compensator awhile ago because it was frayed and stretched. At the time I didn't replace the 2 rear cables but probably should have as the handbrake doesn't seem to be holding too well. Currently, when the handbrake is applied the left rear cable doesn't get tight enough and likely stretched. The right cable seems OK. I'm going to purchase 2 new cables tomorrow. Can anyone explain the proper method for adjusting the handbrake system once I put the new rear cables on. Thanks.

Art
 
I would attempt adjustment before ordering any more parts.

Adjustment is pretty straight-forward provided the adjusters easily turn. If not you may need to soak them with PBlaster and exercise them a bit.

I get the rear end off the ground, remove the road wheels and rotate the drum so the peep hole is lined up with the adjuster & I can see how far apart the wedges are at rest. If they are fairly close (say, less than 1/8") then you've got quite a bit of adjustment to work with.

I adjust until the drum drags, then back-off one position (1/4 turn). Only check for drag after each 1/4 turn adjustment as the drum will always be bound up when you are turning the adjuster to the next position.

I know there are some other methods that get into countling clicks but the simple approach works for me.

The adjuster have square heads and there are purpose-made tools for turning them which I find makes the task easier. Lacking one of those tool I think you will at least want an 8 point socket on there.

I assume you have a manual so I did not go into detail on where the adjuster is or how they spread the wedges, etc.
 
Thank you George. With the help of a friend, we replaced and adusted the rear brakes shoes a few months ago. We also cleaned the adjusters. The brakes seems to be working fine when driving. My problem now is with the handbrake. It doesn't seem to be working as it should, particulary on the left side. I applied the handbrake yesterday while in my driveway which is on s slight incline, and the car was rolling very slowly. I believe that the rear handbrake cables are original so I wouldn't be surprised if they have stretched. Is it just a matter of installing the 2 rear cables and then adjusting the brakes again until you get that slight drag?

Art
 
You should be able to operate the handbrake (road wheel off) for each side by simply pushing back on the lever (behind the backing plate). If that seems to effectively hold the drum then perhaps the cable has stretched. If, on the other hand, pushing the lever does not hold the drum then I would say that's more likely an adjustment issue.
 
Does the compensator pull way off to one side? If so, then IMO you have a lateral cable that is stretched beyond redemption and should be replaced. (That much 'stretch' usually means that all of the strands are broken, and it is slowly pulling apart completely.)

Otherwise, if the tension is noticeably unequal, then the compensator is seized and must be freed up before going any further. It should be free to turn either way in order to equalize the force on the two lateral cables.

The Bentley says that with the rear brakes adjusted so they are locked and the lever applied by one notch, the cables should be "just taut". It gives specific lengths for the lateral cables, but I find it easier to just look at the position of the compensator .
 

Attachments

  • 29671.jpg
    29671.jpg
    40.5 KB · Views: 244
I tried adjusting the 3 new brake cables today. It seems like the 2 rear cales must be screwed all the way into the fork end on the compensator for a tight adjustment. Is that correct? Also, when performing the brake adjustment do you release the emergency brake from the 1 notch ( 2 works better) before you check for drag? Thanks.

Art
 
To adjust the rear brakes, release the handbrake entirely, tighten the adjuster until you can feel a bit of drag (with the adjuster at a notch), then back off by 2 notches.
 
This is what I just wrote on a British TR Foum.

I have heard stories about the rear cables that link this 3-pronged pivot device to the drums. You will have noticed that there is a long cable towards the left drum and a shorter cable to the right drum. The story goes that there are different design lengths between pre-TS 60000 TR3As and the post-TS 60000 TRs. I don't know if this is true or not. But when you assemble these cross cables and adjust the handbrake, you may find that you might need to alter the length of one or both of these cross cables by up to 1/4 inch shorter for it all to work at the optimum.

When I installed new cross cables in 1990, I had to remove the yoke ends, run a die up another 1/2 inch or so and cut off the extra 1/4" from the threaded end so it wouldn't jam, once I set the yokes to where the tightness was equal.

The cross cables should droop when the handbrake is not actuated and they should have equal "tightness" when the handbrake is pulled "on". Otherwise, one side may pull "on" before the other and may cause your TR to spin to one side or the other during an emergency stop. You can check this with the rear end up on jack stands and pull the handbrake on one click at a time - then check the droop or tightness. As you get to about the 5th click on the handbrake lever arm, the drums should have equal resistance when you manually rotate the drums. Then by the 6th click the drums should be locked equally tight. The 7th click is to take up slack and wear during the next 20,000 miles or so. Then the long cable from the lever to the pivot arm can be re-adjusted to re-set the handbrake properly.

Remember that these are "fly-off" handbrakes - the reverse of every modern car handbrake method since about 1965 or 1970. The early TRs were designed for rallies and racing as well as for fun touring and to swing the rear end of a sidescreenTR around a curve in an Alpine Rally or Mille Miglia, the driver could pull on the handbrake lever, perform his swing around the curve and then he just had to let go of the lever arm to continue.

When I park my TR3A in any public area, I pull on the hanbrake to the top. Then if someone wants to steal the TR, he doesn't know how to release the lever arm - so he gives up. Another anti-theft device.

Don Elliott, Original Owner, 1958 TR3A
 
Thank you all for your help. George and Randall, you both say to adjust the brakes until they just drag, then back off/ loosen 1-2 notches or 1/4 or 1/2 a turn. At that point, I assume that there will be NO drag at all and the tires should spin freely without any drag whatsoever. Is that correct? I've read where folks say that you do want some drag. Thanks again.

Art
 
Back
Top