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TR2/3/3A TR3B Radiator.. A Quck Question
- Thread starter CaptRoy
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Alan_Myers
Luke Skywalker
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Hi,
See if you can get pictures of it. If it has the long header tank that positions the filler cap about 12" rearward, and I think it will, it will work. Even the early TR4 rads (same time frame as the 3"B" were being built) had the same, long header tank as the 3A. So, my best guess is, yes, it should be fine. The only thing I'd try to avoid is the rads with the hand crank hole. That hole cuts off about 20% of the cooling and can cause overheating problems. A rad can be rebuilt without the hole, but that's an additional cost.
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
See if you can get pictures of it. If it has the long header tank that positions the filler cap about 12" rearward, and I think it will, it will work. Even the early TR4 rads (same time frame as the 3"B" were being built) had the same, long header tank as the 3A. So, my best guess is, yes, it should be fine. The only thing I'd try to avoid is the rads with the hand crank hole. That hole cuts off about 20% of the cooling and can cause overheating problems. A rad can be rebuilt without the hole, but that's an additional cost.
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
Banjo
Yoda
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TR 2-3-3A-3B, same radiator.
The only difference between a 3A and a 3B is that some of the 3Bs got TR4 engine and trannys. Some of the 3Bs the only difference is the commission number.
You can get it and there won't be any problem with it fitting as long as it really is from a 3B
The only difference between a 3A and a 3B is that some of the 3Bs got TR4 engine and trannys. Some of the 3Bs the only difference is the commission number.
You can get it and there won't be any problem with it fitting as long as it really is from a 3B
Don Elliott
Obi Wan
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A tech tip for easier installation (and removal next time) of your radiator. The heads of the bolts under the rad are almost impossible to reach. So once you get these bolts and the rad out, try the following. Put the bolts in a vice and with a hack-saw, put a slot in the threaded end of each bolt. Then when you re-install the rad, get the bolt started with your fingers from below. Make sure that the threads are clean. Then from above, use a screwdriver to thread the bolt upwards till it's almost tight. Then a turn on the hex head with a wrench below will finish the job. See the attachment.
Don Elliott, 1958 TR3A
Don Elliott, 1958 TR3A
mrv8q
Luke Skywalker
Offline
Re: TR3B Radiator.. A Quick Question
To follow up on Don's post, he's right in that it is very difficult to get to those bolts. I found using a Craftsman 1/4 inch socket wrench, (the small one,) and a 9/16 socket allowed me to get in there w/ just enough clearance to successfully get those buggers off after 45 years. Everything else, tool wise, was just too big!
Best, Kevin Browne
'59TR3A #58370
To follow up on Don's post, he's right in that it is very difficult to get to those bolts. I found using a Craftsman 1/4 inch socket wrench, (the small one,) and a 9/16 socket allowed me to get in there w/ just enough clearance to successfully get those buggers off after 45 years. Everything else, tool wise, was just too big!
Best, Kevin Browne
'59TR3A #58370