• Hey Guest!
    British Car Forum has been supporting enthusiasts for over 25 years by providing a great place to share our love for British cars. You can support our efforts by upgrading your membership for less than the dues of most car clubs. There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Upgraded members don't see this banner, nor will you see the Google ads that appear on the site.)
Tips
Tips

TR2/3/3A Tr3b lower A arms difficulties

Share this page

B

Bill_Bryant

Freshman Member
Offline
Hey guys...


I am installing new suspension components and a rack on my '62 tr3b.

I got the all the suspension parts a few years back from the TR Shop in London and they supplied the 3 deg trunions and late tr4 upper A arms, too.

So. one side is all apart except for the steel sleeves on the frame that the lower A arm pivots on. These seem to be fused to the frame pin...
I have tried propane torch plus days of PB Blaster.

How to remove these suckers?

And while we are at it... How does one remove the bearing in the lower A arm outer hole? Chisel? Hack saw?
I had it in a big vise over night bit it did NOT budge???

thanks
Bill
 
Wow! I've asked so many questions on here, now I get to help:

First, as for the steel sleeves that are slipped over the welded-on frame pins (inner side of lower A-arms, just to be sure we are talking the same thing). Here's what I used; a 16" long large sized Channel-Lock pair of pliers (with all of the PB blaster and torch additives). Also, a smaller sized plumbers adjustable wrench will work also. You will obviously be replacing these steel sleeves anyways.

Second, regarding the outer brass bushings (outer end of lower A-Arms). See my prior thread: https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcforum/u...er_w#Post772722

However, after trying the removal myself I found that I was damaging the end surface of the Arms themselves more than I would have liked. I actually went to a driveline repair shop and turns out the various hardened steel "pushers" they use on their large 1-ton hand presses can work those bushings out in about 15 seconds each with no damage to the a-arms. They charged me $5. If you walk in and act really confused they'll feel bad for you and do it on the spot.

you may also already know that when you get the new brass bushings, they are easy to seat yourself, but they do need to be precisely reamed in order to be reassembled on the trunnion pin.
 
Re: Tr3b lower A arms difficulties ongoing

Thanks willie p for your response and I have just come in from 2 plus hours trying your ideas and mine.

I finally got out a 2.5" air cutoff wheel and cut a groove in the most exposed part of the sleeve and grabbed a small hand sledge and an 8" x 3/8' machined punch...

then I heated it up and sprayed it with pb and left it for an hour and then I re-heated it and spray half a can of Freeze-Off on it and then I hit it with the slege from every angle I could think of and I'll tell you what, the sucker never moved!
 
Re: Tr3b lower A arms difficulties ongoing

Sounds like you may be close to having to replace the pins.

I'd use a Dremel and abrasive cutoff blade, to extend the groove closer to the inner end of the sleeve. Then go back to trying to break the sleeve (along the groove) with the sledge & punch. You might also try driving a cold chisel along the groove (spreading it wider) if you can get enough access.

Also, how much heat did you apply? While I don't normally like heating up suspension components, I have found that somewhere around red hot things start coming apart easier.

PS, if it isn't already, cut the groove almost through the sleeve. Even a small gouge in the pin won't hurt anything.
 
Re: Tr3b lower A arms difficulties ongoing

I wound up grinding flats on each side of it and put a pipe wrench on them - the twisting motion helped finally break mine free.
 
Re: Tr3b lower A arms difficulties ongoing

Okay, so I FINALLY got one sleeve off...
3 more to go... or not?
What a job...
thanks for all the suggestions

I am seriously wondering WHY I even thought it was necessary to swap it out in the first place...

Mostly just because the parts were in the kit...

I think I will forego doing the other three.
the other 3 sleeves seem to be in very good shape...
I don't think they wear much if your delrin is still in one piece...


thoughts?
 
Re: Tr3b lower A arms difficulties ongoing

If the sleeve surface is rough at all (from corrosion more than wear), it will wear the Delrin (or nylon) faster.

Personally, I always assume that both the car and I will live long enough to do the job again, so my inclination would be to go ahead and do them all. But that's just me, your situation may be different.
 
Back
Top