TR2/3/3A TR3A Windshield Stanchion Screw Removal?

[karls59tr]

It seems there were two different methods of fastening the stanchions to the body. There is the 1)Dzus screw method. And there is the 2) Slotted head screw method. I have the latter. So with the latter type ,are there large captive nuts inside the body that the screws go into or some kind of plate? I tried to remove these years ago but with no success. If I soaked the inside area with PB Blaster would that free up the screws? How in the world do you get back there with a wrench if it's needed?

 

[Mickey Richaud]

Someone with more recent memory (!) will chime in, but as I remember, there's a "floating" plate in there, much like on door hinges, for slight adjustment.

Soaking with PB Blaster or a mixture of equal parts acetone and auto transmission fluid will help.

 

[Jesus]

As far as I know, there is a heavy plate with two threaded holes for the bolts. The plate is welded to the body. There is no possibility of using a wrench from the interior. The bolts must be undone with a large screwdriver, or by welding a nut on their head and then using a wrench.

Jesus

 

[toysrrus]

Hi Karl,

I recently removed those brackets off my `57TR3. It took alot of "BP Blaster" soaking over 3 days. Ea. day I took an "Impact Screwdriver" and whacked the "Slotted Screws" in "BOTH" directions! These are bears to get out but they will come out with "Patience & Perserverance".

By hitting with an Impact Screwdriver in both directions (Tighten & Loosen); It helps the "BP Blaster" get into the threads. Whatever you do; "DON`T" strip the Hd!!

I`m currently looking for the same "Flat Hd" screw except with a "Phillips Hd" cross point in it (LOL). There is a local "Nut & Bolt" supplier that I will be contacting today to see if they have such an animal.

I`ll keep you posted.

Russ

 

[Kleykamp]

I got mine out using a large, square shaft, screw driver with a crescent wrench (spanner) on the shaft of the screwdriver and putting a lot of pressure against the head to avoid turning out the screw head. There is also a rubber plug on the inside of the bulkhead for the rear fender bolt. You might be able to get some PB on the back with a nozzle thru that hole. Also, heat the bolt, but careful with heat as the stanchion is brass. It always helps to curse alot. I'm pretty sure the plate on the inside is heavy and welded, so I don't think you have to worry about a nut turning. The 57 has the bracket for the dzus fastener,and small screws, instead of the flat head bolt direct through the Stanchion. Good Luck
Joe

 

[karls59tr]

Thanks for the info guys. Anyone have an opinion on Brooklands Racing screens? They look great on the TR3 and lowers the car's profile but I wonder about the practicality of having them on. Might be like riding a motorcycle in terms of wind in your face? If a person only drives on sunny days and isn't going on long trips then I suppose weather conditions aren't an issue. And you can run racing screens as well as the windshield if mounted correctly. I have an opportunity to get a set at a good price but was wondering if anyone has a set mounted and what their thoughts are.

 

[martx-5]

I have a set of aero screens that I use from time to time. Truth be told, the Brooklands screens aren't that much lower the the full screen. If you install the brackets in the right place, you can leave them in place with the full windscreen on. Just remove the full windscreen and slide on the aeros. When using them, I also don a set of Halcyon goggles which are manufactured by the same company that supplied the RAF pilots in WWII.

Edit: Here's a pic of me and my buddy Dave on the TR3's maiden voyage after the resto was complete. :laugh:

 

[karls59tr]

Where can I get a pair of those cool goggles?

 

[martx-5]

Where can I get a pair of those cool goggles?

Aircraft Spruce has several models made by Halcyon. Be warned, they ain't cheap! But, they're the real deal.