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TR2/3/3A TR3A vibration - looking for ideas

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I would think if the rear shaft on the tranny was bent that the rear housing seal would wear out and allow the fluid to leak. I don't see that happening.
Randall, I didn't mean that you could see the tranny flange at all just not clearly.
As for the drive shaft. It seems unlikely that two shaft would cause the same problem. I know used is used. The first shaft was completely rebuilt by the local drive shaft shop ( republic diesel). Just thought it might have been hit by something while driving.
 
IMHO, the drive shaft flanges at the trans and rear must be mated so that when the bolts are tight, you could not slide a .0002 feeler gage between the flanges anywhere around the circumference of the flanges. Other than that, chance of a wooooble.
 
bgbassplyr, what do I do to get them to mate? Since the car is restored with many other car parts. What's the trick to matching and properly fitting them together?
I had the car up on jacks again today and it wobbles so much the tranny is moving up and down. Much be a major mismatch.
Should I pull the flanges and drive shaft and mill the flanges flat? Should I order new ones? Argh...
 
'what do I do to get them to mate?'

TFR> DINNER AND FLOWERS TO START. Sorry.

The mating flanges should be male/female (hence the flowers). One will have a lip, the other a recess for the lip to fit into. When put together, the flanges will be flat against each other. If they aren't, then the flanges do not match (male to male, unlikely)or a place on the lip of one is bent-dented-damaged, or the recess is damaged, has rust, or some other foreign matter preventing the two from mating.

If they don't mate, clean both with a wire brush, sandpaper, or scotchbrite and then look for the described damage. If dent, grind dent it away, if foreign matter or rust, remove it. If bent, replace it.

Are you sure that the angles between the trans flange and the axle (pinion angle) haven't changed? Running stock rear springs? Lowering blocks? U joints misalighned?

If none of the above cures the problem, get back here. I'll monitor this thread and may have others ideas. Not an expert but love challenge.
 
My wife always jokes and says I can incorperate sex in anything I discuss. Well I think I'm not alone... :-}

I guess I'm going to check how flat the flanges are and see if they mate( outside of the car). Then I'm going to see which of the three flanges I have look and fit the best. Then I'm going to either buy a new driveshaft or have the two I have made into one good one.

Will let you know what I find.
 
YOU ARE NOT ALONE
 
Well I have an update.
There is still an issue but have found some things that are not okay.

I have a couple spare flanges. Hopefully someone can answer this question. Would a good assumption be be that the oil ring seal surface is on center with the shaft hole? Anyway, I can check them on my lathe as suggested earlier.

The front flange had some smashed areas in the location ring. Had another one so I checked it first and installed it in the tail of the transmission. It seems fine.
Now I checked the rear flange and it was bent (according to my lathe.) It wobbled like crazy. So I have a spare, checked it on the lathe it was true. Installed it and made sure the drive shaft flanges met flat with the front and rear flange.
With the engine running and in gear you can see the drive shaft wobble. This is the drive shaft that was rebuilt two years ago. Guess it's possible the drive shaft was damaged while driving with the bad flanges.

I'm going to see if Moss or someone on the sight might have a new or rebuilt one for sale.
If you guys have one let me know tonight before I order one tomorrow.
 
Have you tried rolling the DS on a flat surface to see if it is bent? If it is, you may be able to have it straightened. If it isn't bent, then chec the universals. Bearing failure in the yoke(s) will cause wobble.
 
I took the drive shafts apart ( two seperate ones) and put them in the lathe. They both wobble slightly but not obsessive. The slide shaft was straight when I checked it by itself (both of them). Before I forget the slide part goes forward, correct? Wish I could figure out how to check the end of the driveshaft flanges.

I remember when I got the "good" shaft back from the drive shaft shop they said the front flange was worn out and that they didn't sell them. Heck they couldn't get U-joints... They are a national company so I know they are very good. Must just be too old to get the parts.

I think if Moss sells a new shaft I'm going to buy it. I'm a distributor for parts so the price shouldn't be too bad.

Do you think it would be the best way or just keep fighting until the ugly problem rears itself?
 
Last spring, I decided to have a specialist look at my driveshaft as I felt the bearings in the U-joints were a bit wobbly. They were 17 years old and had been driven almost 97,000 miles. He said I was right and that there are two qualities for new needle bearings. There are the common (cheap) ones that are affordable and I showed these ones made in China or Taiwan to him. He said they were garbage. He showed me why. So I took them back to the bearing supplier for a full refund and asked him to get me some US made bearings with a "Name" brand. It took them a week or so and immediately I could "feel" the difference. I took them to the U-joint shop and he put them in and balanced the driveshaft up to 5000 RPM. It's been fine since with no issues.

Perhaps this might help shed some light (inspiration) onto your problem.
 
Well, the bearings and the bushings are original. I never replaced the bearings in the differential or transmission. However, the u-joints are from Moss and to be honest they could be US or China. Again, to be honest everything made today is from China. That's why our economy (USA) is in the toilet. Back to my problem.
I think if I get the driveshaft in order the problem will be solved. But who knows... The bearings and bushings may be worn out and I may need to go deeper...
Thanks for your input. By the way hows the weather in Montreal? Can't wait for spring to drive the car...
 
LARRY,
I am really beginning to think the U joint needle brgs are the culprit: probably worn, ground up and missing. I have replaced these brgs many times and it is an easy job, but if the cross is damaged, a new cross + brgs will be required.
If affordable, go with a new DS. Moss shows $250 + shipping.
Do what you think best.

Jim
 
Order a new drive shaft from Moss. Will get it by Wednesday. Should see if it was the cure. Should be but who knows...
 
Larry,

I feel like my rep on this site is counting on it curing the vibration.

Well, not really because sometimes you eat the bear, sometimes the bear eats you.

Jim
 
Will let you now about 4:00 pm on Wednesday. Of course if the shaft comes in and I can install it.
Thanks for your support.
 
UPDATE!

Replaced the transmission mounting flange. It was grossly bent. I think it caused the drive shaft to wear out.
Now have a Moss drive shaft in and the car is cured. (as well as a Triumph can be)
 
Larry.

CONGRATS!

Jim
 
Excellent. Well done. It is great when you manage to cure a strange problem such as this. I hope you enjoy driving the TR now.
 
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