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TR2/3/3A tr3a verticle link removel question

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TexasKnucklehead

Jedi Knight
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I wish this were hypothetical, but I can't get the stub axle out, the outer threads for the castellated nut have stripped and hammering the other end does not seem to be working...

So, do I have to remove the shock, and spring, or since the lower pan is resting on the stop, could I just split the upper ball joint, lift the upper arms high enough to clear the threads in the link, lean the top of the link forward, remove the lock stop and spin the link out of the trunnion?
 
I've done it the latter way, but don't recall all the details. Seems like maybe I removed the steering arm and caliper mount too, but maybe that was just to get the dust shield off.
 
I'm afraid I'm no help...always have used a press with the link removed from the car. I would like to comment to be careful with the hammering, as the upper vertical link bends fairly easily, which would set up a bind when the wheel is turned.
 
Unless I'm confused (which is a distinct possibility), that's what Jerry is trying to do. He just wants to remove the vertical link without having to remove the spring, pan, lower arms, etc. Then he can use a press to remove the stub axle (while supporting the VL as close as possible to the axle).
 
Oh...that changes everything!

I would jack under the spring pan, just to make the angles better. Then remove the steering knuckle, disc dust cover, steering stop, lower trunnion grease fitting, and pop the upper ball joint from the link. The link should then drop outward enough to unscrew easily.
 
OK, thanks. I already have the dust shield and steering link off. I must be getting lazy but the thought of taking the spring out (again) suddenly sounded like no fun at all. Maybe I'll get more time on it tomorrow. My plan seemed reasonable, but I thought maybe it was too simple, and I was overlooking something. -Kind of like when you're positive that a squeak is coming from the rear of the car right up to the point you know it's not.
 
Watch your feet when you press the spindle out. Seem to recall someone saying it can come out like a bullet and that they had chips in the floor to show where it hit.

David
 
I think your plan will work if there is enough room for the axle and the trunnion to make a complete circle without hitting the spring or the floor or fender or something. I will be waiting to hear if it is possible. It sounds like you are in a place where if you did need to drop the pan and spring it would be doable, and at the stage you are at now, it would not that big a deal. If you do, The part I dislike the most is getting the shock in and out, but you have the engine in and everything, so you have the weight to compress things. Just get after it and go=== the eyes of Texas are upon you, or is that a song? I cannot remember sometimes, but my DNA still wants to replicate itself.
steve
 
The upper ball joint took a little time with the separator tightened on it. But with a little touch of heat, it came right off. Once the link was off, a little persuading with my favorite hammer in the vice and the axle popped right out. I had a sacrificial nut on the end so I didn't have to worry about my feet or the concrete. I've attached a picture of the old and new axle, with the shadow showing the bottom when the old one was mounted.

When Randall said he was able to hammer out the axle, I made the assumption he did that while it was still on the car. I was afraid hitting it any harder was going to damage the trunion or ball-joint -tho I'd guess a huge pot hole at speed would be a greater impact. In any case, I think I'm ready for some new parts, and the disassembly/discovery phase is finally over -assuming that noise wasn't coming from something else...

I like to tackle one thing at a time and have yet to take the other side or the rear apart.
 

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TexasKnucklehead said:
When Randall said he was able to hammer out the axle, I made the assumption he did that while it was still on the car.
Click to expand...

I must've mis-typed something. What I meant to say was that most of the force came from a piece of pipe and nut tightened on the outer threads; followed by a couple of brisk whacks from a BFH on the back to setup some vibration.

Anyway, glad to hear you've got it apart and are moving forward. I just discovered the hard way that 87mm liners will not fit an 85mm Standard motor. Who knew? Unless replacements can be here downright suddenly, I'm not going to make it to the show on time.
 
Randall, I'm still a bit unclear: I too had some pipe and washers on the bearing side tightened as much as I could with the stripped threads (as can be seen in the picture of the VL removed). But did you have the link removed when you used the BFH, or was it still on the car? I used the same little sledge, but with it still in the car, I was unable to use it's full force. Once lying on the top of the vice, with the jaws opened just around where the seal rides, I could knock it good.

I have 87mm liners in engine# TS50903E. I got them off ebay/britishpartsplace back in 06. I hope you work something out in time.
 
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