• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.

    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

TR2/3/3A TR3a Trunk floor removal and replacement

apbos

Jedi Knight
Country flag
Offline
Thursday afternoom is the big day. I'm going to remove the trunk on "Statler" and the High School kids are going to be putting the new panel in. Any tips? Things to watch out for? Pictures are welcomed!


Paul
 
I put together a few photos of my trunk floor replacement. Probably the most difficult thing I've done on the TR. I removed the rear apron. Don't know how you'd do it any other way?

Good luck.

Pat

DSCN1239.jpg


DSCN1254.jpg


DSCN1255.jpg


DSCN1258.jpg


DSCN1259.jpg


DSCN1253.jpg


DSCN1252.jpg


DSCN1251.jpg
 
apbos said:
Thursday afternoom is the big day. ... Things to watch out for? Pictures are welcomed!


Paul

Switch blades?
 
I went to a high school that was so rough that they frisked us for weapons every morning, and if we didn't have one, they gave us one!
 
GB, I came to that conclusion as I tore into my 3A. I found a local chap that specialized in old cars and custom work. He did a great job, all it took was gobs of $$$$$$$.
How are you doing in your search for a car?

Tinkerman
 
Pat - I'll never ever ever ever complain about my project again. Wow. You deserve a medal for saving that one. Great job.
 
my Father in law is a body man of 50 years. 83 yrs old now. He doesn't really help me but he did tell me I was totally out of my mind and that the car belonged in the scrap heap. But now the body is solid, doors and trunk lid fits (pretty well, pending adjustment), and the chassis is almost ready to roll.

Hope to finish brake lines this weekend, mount steering rack, and go pick up that frozen old engine from storage and start stripping it down for its date with the machine shop.

Pat
 
If you're talking about just replacing the trunk (boot) floor, I did this to my TR3. It was time consuming, but not especially difficult. I took the old panel out in sections using one of those pneumatic body saws and cut-off tools. I first cut away the center section that covers the spare tire well. Be careful not to cut into the well or the flange. Then I worked on the outer pieces. At some point, you will have to prop up the spare tire compartment so it doesn't flop down. Drill out whatever spot weld there are, and clean up all the sealing putty. There's a bunch of it at the tail end of panel, which was still soft after 45 years! Grind down any of the remaining spot welds etc, paying close attention to the spare tire well flange. It took me awhile to figure out how to get the new panel in without cutting it in pieces. It will go in, but you'll have to play with it. It took me about a half an hour to get the right angle.

I put it in the best position (it will be a compromise), and then used a few of sheet metal screws to hold it there in the flange of the spare tire well. I marked the areas where I wanted to do the plug welds, took the piece back out, and drilled the holes for the plug welds. Put the floor back in located by the sheet metal screws, and then plug weld everything in place. Remove the screws, and weld the holes shut.

Edit: IIRC, my floor (from Moss) did not come with the right angle brackets for the gas tank fiberboard liner. I just made some from some sheet metal and welded them in place.
 
Just left . Following Arts method. Pics later
Sent with phone

Paul
 
Pat,

Can you come out here and take care of mine when the time comes? I'll need to do trunk floor, spare tire pan, floors, inner and outer sills, battery tray.. :frown:

Scott
 
Hang in there Scott, and if you can get Pat out there it's worthwile, I've seen his car close up and he's done great work on it!
 
OK
Followed the steps outlined by Art and got out about 80% of the metal today (about an hour and 40 minutes). We also got the fender patch cut in and ready for glueing. If I get time I'll do some more in the afternoon. Need to be done by Monday as school will end soon and then my labor goes an summer vacation.
A die grinder with a cut-of wheel works well. Friday I'll be using an angle grinder to get down to the spot welds and peal away the remaining metal.

Sorry about the picture quality. My cell phone was cover by dust(rust), when I took the pictures

Paul
4585979356_cce2478a11_b.jpg


4585979350_741f0be3d7_b.jpg


4585979346_241807f92a_b.jpg
 
Paul, from where did you obtain your fender patch panel?

And Scott, if I can get my car built before you start tearing into yours, I might just be willing to cross country and help. I'm sure all these repairs would go a lot faster the second time around!

pat
 
Pat
That was a Moss item Moss #2

Tom
It is going well. I've even arrange to get some (2 hrs) time with the car on Saturday (my B-day present to myself). Hopfully we can glue up the patch and fit the boot floor.

Paul
 
Pat,

Considering I have to build a garage first to work on them, I don't think there's any worry that you will be done before then!

Scott
 
Got 1hr 20 min in today. Used Eastwood's Body adhesive to glue on the patch. 30 min. later we were able to remove the clamps. No warping and fast.
4589962270_9543df4e46_b.jpg

Also got all the steel off the spare tire flange. Monday afternoon I hope to cleanup the remaining trunk steel and get the panel ready for installation.

Paul
 
Making nice progress Paul. I wish I had glued my lower fender patches on. I had turn learn some "shrinking" techniques after welding them on.

Are you going to "glue" the boot floor in place, or plug weld it??
 
I'm thinking about it. The fender sure was easy. First I'll get the fit correct and then we'll see. I know that I will glue it at the back, where the trunk meets the spare tire compartment. May also use it at the front part of the boot.

Paul
 
Back
Top