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TR2/3/3A TR3A Speedo Location & Part number

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S

SPACER

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Hi Guys,

On my Left hand drive late 59 TR3A (post TS60000) my speedo was located left of the steering col. when removed.
A friend of mine indicated that it should be on the right, closer to the gauge panel with the tach on the left.

What is the correct position please?

Also, my speedo Pt. no. is 6307/04 with calibration No.1180.
This is a non overdrive car.

Is this correct?

Thanks,
Bob
 
<span style="font-size: 11pt"><span style="color: #006600">According to thr TRA Concours Judging book, (pp IN-21) the speedo should be to the right, closest to the center facia. Lots of confusion on the Speedo number, altho IMO that number is NOT for a factory OD vehicle.
FRank</span></span>
 
6TTR3A said:
<span style="font-size: 11pt"><span style="color: #006600">According to thr TRA Concours Judging book, (pp IN-21) the speedo should be to the right, closest to the center facia. Lots of confusion on the Speedo number, altho IMO that number is NOT for a factory OD vehicle.
FRank</span></span>
Click to expand...

Odd. I read it the other way around, speedo on left as shown in the TRA diagream with the change over being made at s/n 29098. Let me check another reference book tonight.
 
<span style="font-size: 12pt"><span style="color: #006600">A matter of semantics I guess. I read it as the illustration is the location BEFORE TS29098.
FRank</span></span>
 
Speedo was moved to the inboard spot to facilitate the navigator being able too see it better -- unfortunately that also lets my nagivator (wifey) get a good look at it too.
 
On all TR2s, TR3s and the early TR3As, the speedo with the mileage counters is on the left. My 1958 (early) TR3A came like this when I bought it brand new. There is only one hole in the bottom flange where the trip odometer re-set extension knob comes down below the dash.

All right hand drive and left hand drive TRs were like this till someone driving in a rally in North America complained to S-T that it was very hard for the navigator to read the trip odometer way over on the left. So S-T at some point after that swapped them so the navigator could more easily read the mileage counter.

It was at this point that S-T added a second hole below the position for the re-set knob for the trip odometer. They never deleted the original hole - so on your post-TS 60000 TR3A, you will find an unused hole in the rolled flange of the dashboard below where the reset is located on mine.
 

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:iagree:

Except I thought the extra hole disappeared later on, around the time the body was redesigned at TS60,000.

One place the change is documented is in the owner's manual (aka "Practical Hints"). The first edition specifically mentioned that the tach & speedo did not change sides for RHD vs LHD, while the 6th edition mentions that they do (keeping the speedo always on the side nearest the passenger).

The 1180 calibration should be correct, if your rear axle is 3.7:1. The 4.1 axle option was technically only available in combination with the overdrive option, but it was also possible to purchase the overdrive without the 4.10 axle.

PS, Don, do you happen to have a larger photo that shows the trip meter reset knob? All of mine have been broken and I'm trying to reproduce the correct length.
 

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TR3driver said:
...PS, Don, do you happen to have a larger photo that shows the trip meter reset knob? All of mine have been broken and I'm trying to reproduce the correct length.
Click to expand...

Not Don, but see if this helps:

OdoReset1.jpg


The lens distorts things a bit, in person it looks to be right at 3" long.

I used that shorty stub to reset mine for many years. Now have the correct fitting and need to get around to putting in in.

In case you don't know or recall, the shaft is a stiff spring with a black tube over it:

OdoReset2.jpg


If that old end piece (upper left in photo) is of any use to you in making one just let me know.
 
Thanks, Geo. I either never knew (or more likely forgot) there was a spring under the vinyl sleeve.

Where did you get the correct fitting?
 
I got the replacement with a speedo from Ebay (bought for parts).

Prior to going that route I did come up with a source for it -- one of the instrument repair outfits -- for about 15 bucks. Can't recall which firm offered it but I don't think it was either of the Big 2 (MoMa or Nisonger).

<span style="font-style: italic">Thinking about it some... it <span style="font-weight: bold">might</span> have been West Valley in Reseda. Google says their number is (818)758-9500. Could be worth a call.</span>
 
Bob,

The TRA judging guide and an old Nissonger catalog appear to show the following:

SN 6307/04 3.7:1 TS1 to TS8637(?)
SN 6307/10 4.1:1 TS1 to TS8637(?)

SN 6319/00 3.7:1 TS8637(?) to TS10545
SN 6319/02 4.1:1 TS8637(?) to TS10545

SN 6319/06 3.7:1 TS10546 to end of production (5/56 - )
SN 6319/04 4.1:1 TS10546 to end of production (5/56 - )

One other source (Limora catalog) shows some additional versions with some different criteria for each although no commission number change points.

SN 6307/04 3.7:1
SN 6307/07 3.7:1 Optional Michelin X tyres
SN 6307/08 4.1:1
SN 6307/10 4.1:1 Optional Michelin X tyres

SN 6319/00 3.7:1
SN 6319/06 3.7:1 Optional Michelin X tyres
SN 6319/02 4.1:1
SN 6319/04 4.1:1 Optional Michelin X tyres

I actually think the latter is probably more correct.

Of course I'm not sure that it really matters as long as you have one matches your differential ratio (overdrive versus non-overdrive doesn't make a difference).

Scott
 
This discussion got me curious, so I checked some of my books, the speedo on the right and the tachometer on the left stayed that way through the TR4 and 4A, apparently the rallying concerns were no longer a major concern for the TR250, and they swapped back to a left hand speedo and right hand tachometer, stayed that way through the end of TR6 production.

Sorry for the digression, but interesting little trivia to me anyway, we will now return to our regularly scheduled programming, please pardon the interuption...
 
Here is a picture of the odometer twist from an early 3a. The "spring" under the black vinyl is actually just a screw cut into the part with the set screw. Presume it is to make replacing the black cover possible. The only differences I see in the few examples I have is that the knurling on the brass tip is fine on one of them and less so on the other two.
 

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AEW said:
The "spring" under the black vinyl is actually just a screw cut into the part with the set screw.
Click to expand...
So yours won't flex at all? Maybe that explains why all of mine are broken, and the spring Geo shows is a factory solution to that problem.
 
"So yours won't flex at all? Maybe that explains why all of mine are broken, and the spring Geo shows is a factory solution to that problem." TR3driver.


Possibly, since mine have no flex at all. Looking at some others in the parts box the rod from the mechanism on two are broken off at the small hole where the set screw passes through. Another is just missing the twist, and one (labeled as 1959) has a thicker (very short rod) that is up inside the housing. Maybe that is the type Geo has.
 
<span style="font-size: 12pt"><span style="color: #006600">The two different lengths,(2" & 3") are to accomodate the change in design between the pot metal speedo casing unit and the later stamped steel one. Altho the "works" themselves did't change, the interior design of the trip meter reset did. The short (2") exterior knob & shaft was rigid and did not (to my knowledge) go through a hole in the dash. (There was a notch cut in the horizontal dash brace to accomodate the short shaft.) I mentioned in an earlier thread somewhere that that brace could be set either way, but was only correct with the notch on the dash side. When S-T went to the pressed steel case it necessitated a longer shaft and the "spring" IMO was to make up for the fact that you couldn't push the shaft straight up to engage the reset mechanism AND twist it to zero the trip meter. Over the years most of us don't know if we have the correct speedo or not since EXCEPT for the reset they are interchangable. Im sorry, we're on holiday at lovely Hilton Head SC, so I can't supply photos.
FRank </span></span>
 
That makes sense, except that I am fairly certain that the early design (pot metal housing) did extend through the hole in the dash. The shaft lines up perfectly with the hole (which on my car is nowhere near the dash brace, since the speedo is on the left just like Don's photo above), and would have to make a very sharp corner (making it impossible to reset) if it were to run behind the rolled edge of the dash, rather than through it.

Does seem odd they couldn't move the hole to accomodate the changed speedo design, though.
 
I went to school and lived many years in Southern Indiana and accumulated a collection of old wooden rulers, most with 1 or 2 digit phone numbers.

On topic -- thanks for the insight into a part I seldom give a thought too.
 
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