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TR2/3/3A TR3a slight shake at 60-65 mph

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Anthony_S

Anthony_S

Senior Member
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hello,

does anyone know of the possible causes of my tr3a having road shake at about 60- 65 mph. the odd thing is that it comes and goes. you will be going about 60-62 then maybe accelerated a bit more and it will shake for a bit then if you accelerate more or let off a bit the shake will go away and then the car rides smooth again. i wouldn't say the shake is dramatic but it is definately noticeable.

thanks
anthony
 
If you have steel disk wheels, they are often warped. Swap them front to rear, one side at a time and see if things change; at least you can pinpoint the culprit.

Let us know what you find, in any event.

:cheers:
Mickey
 
Might be an idea to take the wheels to an alignment shop and have them spin balanced. This has halted the shakes at speed for me on a couple of LBCs. They also may detect any serious defects in your wheels while they're at it.

An out of balance wheel/tire can drive you nuts, and sometimes make you think the whole suspension is coming apart!

Maybe worth a try . . . let us know.
 
Mickey Richaud said:
If you have steel disk wheels, they are often warped. Swap them front to rear, one side at a time and see if things change; at least you can pinpoint the culprit.

Let us know what you find, in any event.

:cheers:
Mickey
Click to expand...

:iagree: - especially if they're *original* steel disk wheels.

Other culprits: tire(s) out of balance, u-joint wear, suspension problems.

Tom
 
vagt6 said:
Might be an idea to take the wheels to an alignment shop and have them spin balanced.
Click to expand...
If you can, find a shop that mounts the wheels by the lug holes during the balancing procedure. The vast majority of machines locate by the center hole, which is not always concentric with the bolt circle. The result can be a wheel that is perfectly balanced on the machine, but not balanced when it is mounted on a hub.
 
Another possible cause is tires that have a variation in rolling stiffness, a "stiff spot" in the sidewalls.

And the "comes and goes" aspect is likely because there are two problems (eg both front wheels) that sometimes reinforce each other, and sometimes tend to cancel, depending on the relative position. Driving around a curve (where one wheel has to travel farther than the other) for example, may change the 'phasing' between the wheels.
 
If your wheels check out O.K., get your driveshaft checked for straightness abd balance.
 
Anthony,

I had the same problem for the past seven years with my stock steel wheels. I would get new ones (used) which were supposed to be true only to find them no better than what I was trying to replace. I switched to Panasports a month ago and the problem went away. The difference in the way the car drives and rides is unbelievable.

Paul
 
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