TR2/3/3A TR3A sidescreen vinyl seal

[NutmegCT]

I have new vinyl (rubber?) seal strip for the (aftermarket) side screens. Seal is about 2" wide, with a roundish bottom to slide through the frame channel.

The old strip was actually three pieces, one for each of the three sides, stapled together at the corners of the frame. Not exactly elegant.

I know a properly fitted sidescreen will keep me warm and dry in bad weather.

:lol:

How the heck do I slide the new strip through the frame channel, so it bends correctly?

The angle of the frame at each corner stretches the outer edge of the seal way too tight, or requires the seal to be cut (and thus separated into pieces).

Any suggestions?

Thanks.
Tom

 

[mgedit]

Tom, can't help with your installation question, but it sounds like your side screens are like mine. Although my screens have never been installed the rubber is deformed and likely needs replacing. Where did you get the new rubber? One mine the rubber is in two pieces and looks to have been glued at the seams. Happy to take some pics of mine if it might help you. Cheers, Mike

 

[NutmegCT]

Hi Mike. Here's where I got my seal material:

https://www.clarkespares.com/

I called them, told the guy what I needed (seal strip for TR3A AMCO frame), and received the roll of seal within a week.

Hope this helps.
Tom

 

[bobhustead]

Rock auto sells a variety of window track.
Bob

 

[TR4nut]

I thought the staples were actually the way they were originally. Not true?

 

[NutmegCT]

Aha! I rooted around in the carefully organized storage area (a/k/a heap) in my workshop. Found the instructions I got from Clarke Spares when I got the seal last year.

On the AMCO aftermarket type frame like I have, remove the old seal which was inserted in the round channel in the frame (2 sides and top). Clean out channel.

Slide new seal up inside channel, using dish soap as lubricant. Seal goes from bottom of frame and around the curved corner, then across top to the angled (non-radius) joint of the frame. Stop there. Run a shorter length of seal up the empty side, overlapping the end of the longer length.

Trim the seal ends so you have about 1/2" overlap. Use silicone rubber adhesive on the overlap to permanently join the two pieces.

Leave a 2" tail at each end; trim seal to fit hood channel if needed.

Vwah-la!

Will do tomorrow. See picture attached of my frame without the old seal. In my example, new seal would go up left side and across top. Second piece goes up right side and slightly overlaps other piece.

Tom

 

[PeterK]

I found this and saved it long ago.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]Side Curtain Rubber Repair AMCO
Tech Tip From Jeff Zorn.
While trying to locate the rubber that goes around the "AMCO" style aluminum side curtains for my MGA I was stymied. This molding is about 1 1/2 inches high, about l/8 inch thick (maybe a little thicker) and had a round bead on it that slides into the aluminum channel on the side curtain. I had tried most everywhere, including all the major supply houses, rubber and seal makers, and local auto window replacement shops. No one was able to help me with this problem, one that others may have. I could find nothing about replacement rubber in the NAMGAR Tech Tips from MGA! or in the A-Antics Tech Tips Manual. Distraught and very cold and wet on some days, I was about ready to pop for the $300 or so to replace the set of side curtains.At Indy '96 I spoke to several other folks and no one had any ideas. While strolling through the booths, I happened to walk by a vendor that had a display and saw that they had rubber molding that fits under the front windshield. It is the Bottom Windshield Seal-Frame to Body,Moss part number is 680-470. It was about the required height, just slightly thinner, and it had a rectangular bead at the base instead of round. At $10.00 each, I figured I would need 2 for each window frame - $40.00 total - so I bought them.

I finally got around to attempting to put them in the frame. With a little bit of cooking oil, which I put on the aluminum track, and some elbow grease, I was able to pull the rubber around the frame.

For each frame, I used one piece for the sides and top, and one piece for the bottom track. I then used a heat gun (a good hair dryer may work) to help form the top two rounded edges and to keep them from curling one way or the other, which will now give me a tighter fit. Or you can cut the rubber at the top rear corner and then attached with strong water resistant glue another piece of rubber to make essentially a V there which will help keep the rubber from curling excessively.

All in all it works and, for a total cost of about $40.00, it was well worth it.
[/QUOTE]

 

[NutmegCT]

Peter - any idea what he means by " ... and one piece for the bottom track"?

Is there supposed to be rubber seal at the bottom, *instead* of the vinyl flap?

Thanks.
Tom

 

[mgedit]

Thanks for the link Tom. Much appreciated. Cheers, Mike

 

[PeterK]

Nope no idea. I had a set of these that came with my 58 when we purchased it so that's why I had the link. I found Clark Spares too when looking from new number plates. But that's all I know about this subject.

 

[mgbmedic]

do these look familiar. they were purchased in early 70's from JC Whitney catalog.

 

[NutmegCT]

Those sure look like mine, altho' mine have LTD fasteners along the bottom edge. By the way, here's what I learned from Tom Clarke of Clarke Spares:

"Both Amco and a company - Knoll's Tool used the same aluminum shape to makeframes. It's even possible Knoll's Tool made the Amco frames...?...the difference is the Knoll's
frame featured a miter cut joint at the upper front area while the Amco frame features a radius at
the point."

So according to Tom Clarke, mine were actually made by Knoll Tool Co.

Tom

 

[mgedit]

Those look exactly like mine too ... including the protective paper. Will take more pics if anyone is interested when I get home later this week. Cheers, Mike

 

[mgbmedic]

I also have the instructions that came with the windows, i'll scan them for u.