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TR2/3/3A TR3A Rear Crankshaft Seal
- Thread starter PlaidMan
- Start date
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The seal is accomplished with liquid gasket sealer and felt often called Indian Head Sealer or gasket shellac. The process is kinda involved, so it would be best to read about it in the literature. What you do is basically cut the felt strip into short pieces and pack them into the last bearing block on both sides with a soft punch. Pack it down kinda hard and let the juice run out and seal everything. Let the felt run wild and trim it off after everything dries. They should/might leak maybe a drop or maybe not depending on if you park it facing up hill. Done right it is a good seal and I would not hesitate to use it.
Sp53
Sp53
Banjo
Yoda
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SP, Thats the packing for the rear main cap. The oil seal is bolted to that, using the shellac, but dosen't involve the felt packing.
The two halves of the oil seal need to be aligned as the engine is being rebuilt, while the crank is still out.
The rear main bearing cap gets dry fit and torqued, then there is an alignment tool that fits in the bearing hole and simulates the crank, albeit slightly oversized from the actual crank, then you apply the shellac and fit the two halves of the "seal" in place and torque them down. then the tool can be removed, the cap removed, and the crank fitted and then reassembled.
As long as the "seal" halves aren't loosened on what they are bolted to they will be aligned when the bearing cap is replaced.
With the engine in place there is no way to get to the bolts holding the seal halves in place, they are hidden behind the flywheel.
And without the alignment tool any adjustment is likley to make things worse.
These things leak quite a bit, even when everything is right. The cotter pin in the hole in the bottom of the bellhousing is to keep the hole from plugging up and letting the bellhousing fill with oil.
A very small puddle(several drops) under the car after it's sat a while is perfectly normal.
the "seal" only works when the engine is running. when it stops, it will leak.
Hope this helps
The two halves of the oil seal need to be aligned as the engine is being rebuilt, while the crank is still out.
The rear main bearing cap gets dry fit and torqued, then there is an alignment tool that fits in the bearing hole and simulates the crank, albeit slightly oversized from the actual crank, then you apply the shellac and fit the two halves of the "seal" in place and torque them down. then the tool can be removed, the cap removed, and the crank fitted and then reassembled.
As long as the "seal" halves aren't loosened on what they are bolted to they will be aligned when the bearing cap is replaced.
With the engine in place there is no way to get to the bolts holding the seal halves in place, they are hidden behind the flywheel.
And without the alignment tool any adjustment is likley to make things worse.
These things leak quite a bit, even when everything is right. The cotter pin in the hole in the bottom of the bellhousing is to keep the hole from plugging up and letting the bellhousing fill with oil.
A very small puddle(several drops) under the car after it's sat a while is perfectly normal.
the "seal" only works when the engine is running. when it stops, it will leak.
Hope this helps