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TR2/3/3A TR3A Radiator advice please...
- Thread starter Bob_D
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I have a TR4 radiator in my TR3, and until I popped a radiator hose, it was unflappable. The extra cooling capacity without the hole was pretty darn great.
Keep in mind that the 3's fan runs directly off the crank, and is used for balancing. If you take off the fan in favor of the electric variety, it can have an effect on the balance of the engine. (I didn't believe this until multiple TR specialty mechanics confirmed it.)
Keep in mind that the 3's fan runs directly off the crank, and is used for balancing. If you take off the fan in favor of the electric variety, it can have an effect on the balance of the engine. (I didn't believe this until multiple TR specialty mechanics confirmed it.)
prb51
Luke Skywalker
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I just replaced my recored original with an alloy rad. The recored original still had leaking (minor drip) issues on the top where silver soldered and I got tired of dealing with it.
The recore was done without the crank hole.
Besides a considerable weight saving the car runs much cooler in Arizona heat, in 105 degree weather it does not quite get to 185 unless idling for awhile. On the road I can run it hard in the mountains in 100 plus and stay below 185, with the original recored rad (and the other 'original' w/crank hole) it would run quite a bit hotter.
The recore was done without the crank hole.
Besides a considerable weight saving the car runs much cooler in Arizona heat, in 105 degree weather it does not quite get to 185 unless idling for awhile. On the road I can run it hard in the mountains in 100 plus and stay below 185, with the original recored rad (and the other 'original' w/crank hole) it would run quite a bit hotter.
TRcheologist
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I had mine recored, retaining the original shell and and factory stamping at the top. We did eliminate the crank-start hole, picking up around 20% capacity - not pure concours, but a big efficiency improvement.
We left the original fan in situ, for the reasons Sam mentions above, putting an electric fan in front of the radiator (more exposed to the elements, but it works very well and I don't take the TR out in typhoons!). It's unobtrusive, and solved all our traditional TR3A heating issues. I can maintain 185f in traffic, at lights, etc, throughout the summer in an ambient 90-95f.
We left the original fan in situ, for the reasons Sam mentions above, putting an electric fan in front of the radiator (more exposed to the elements, but it works very well and I don't take the TR out in typhoons!). It's unobtrusive, and solved all our traditional TR3A heating issues. I can maintain 185f in traffic, at lights, etc, throughout the summer in an ambient 90-95f.
MGTF1250Dave
Jedi Knight
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Aloha Bob,
I have had the radiator in my TR3A recored and it works fine for me, the temp gauge rarely goes over 180 F. I do have an electric fan mounted on the front of the radiator but rarely need to use it. I have a 145 F thermostatic switch on the intake of the water pump for automatic operation and a manual over ride switch under the dash. I have used it only in snarled non moving traffic.
Remeber, the radiator is only one part of the cooling system. By keeping hoses in good repair, radiator cap functioning properly, engine water jacket clean, and radiator shroud installed all assist the radiator in shedding engine heat.
The weak link in the TR3 cooling system design to my thinking is the cooling fan. It does not pull enough air through the radiator when the car is standing or moving slowly. I replaced the original fan with a six bladed polymer flexi-fan from NAPA. I needed to make a spacer and drill new mounting holes to fit it, but is an improvement.
I have had the radiator in my TR3A recored and it works fine for me, the temp gauge rarely goes over 180 F. I do have an electric fan mounted on the front of the radiator but rarely need to use it. I have a 145 F thermostatic switch on the intake of the water pump for automatic operation and a manual over ride switch under the dash. I have used it only in snarled non moving traffic.
Remeber, the radiator is only one part of the cooling system. By keeping hoses in good repair, radiator cap functioning properly, engine water jacket clean, and radiator shroud installed all assist the radiator in shedding engine heat.
The weak link in the TR3 cooling system design to my thinking is the cooling fan. It does not pull enough air through the radiator when the car is standing or moving slowly. I replaced the original fan with a six bladed polymer flexi-fan from NAPA. I needed to make a spacer and drill new mounting holes to fit it, but is an improvement.
G
Guest
Guest
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After you finish the radiator repair/replace.... cruise on down to your local Toyota dealer and spring for a gallon of the older Toyota red coolant.... you'll be glad you did in the long run... Green coolant is high in silicates, which really promote electrolysis in the dis-similar metals (aluminum, cast-iron, brass) Toyota has no silicates and goes into every motor job I do here regardless of vehicle make... Toyota uses ionized salt in the coolant and it simply will not eat metal! Ever notice that when you take a hose off a Toyota that the metal underneath is perfectly clean and has no etching? Even if the car is 13 years old with 200K miles on it. I see this frequently. Sherman Bird, ASE Master Certified Automotive Technician, L-1 Advanced Engine Performance Certified.
I just spent the afternoon taking the top tank off my re-cored TR3A radiator. I bought it from someone far away. Unless you know and trust the radiator shop, don't buy a re-cored radiator.
I was chasing a small leak on the top of the tank by the filler arm.
The top tank was full of holes, and had never been cleaned. It was full of crud inside, and obvious bad solder joints around the filler arm.
I'm going to patch it with copper flashing, and put it back together. I am going to pretend that the bottom tank is in perfect order.
If it fails again, I am going with a new aluminum radiator.
I was chasing a small leak on the top of the tank by the filler arm.
The top tank was full of holes, and had never been cleaned. It was full of crud inside, and obvious bad solder joints around the filler arm.
I'm going to patch it with copper flashing, and put it back together. I am going to pretend that the bottom tank is in perfect order.
If it fails again, I am going with a new aluminum radiator.
newmexTR3
Jedi Trainee
Offline
I've had my Wizard for about 2 years. I'm only running an electric fan on an automatic thermostat. I absolutely love it. Besides looking great, the car runs cool. That includes stop & start city driving in the middle of the summer in both Albuquerque and in New York. I've yet to see it go above 185.
I can send some pics if you want.
Cheers,
Gavin
I can send some pics if you want.
Cheers,
Gavin
Thanks to all for the great advice. Really appreciated.
Gavin, I'd really appreciate some pictures. My e-mail is rr_davis@comcast.net. Thanks! Bob
Gavin, I'd really appreciate some pictures. My e-mail is rr_davis@comcast.net. Thanks! Bob
fogdot,
Its not on their web site, but Wizard makes a TR3 model with the long neck. I called and ordered - they are making one for me right now with an attached electric fan and some sort of housing for a temp sensor thing a ma jiggie. Really happy with their responsiveness - its supposed to ship early next week!
Its not on their web site, but Wizard makes a TR3 model with the long neck. I called and ordered - they are making one for me right now with an attached electric fan and some sort of housing for a temp sensor thing a ma jiggie. Really happy with their responsiveness - its supposed to ship early next week!