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TR2/3/3A TR3A Official Fluids List

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rlandrum

rlandrum

Jedi Trainee
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I'm having a hard time tracking down the appropriate fluids for my TR3A. It seems there's a lot of misinformation out there, or rather, information that is later disputed by a more senior poster.

I have an empty car. No fluids.

I need to purchase:

Engine Oil
Steering Fluid
Transmission Fluid
Rear Diff Fluid
Brake Fluid
Coolant

So far, I have assembled the following recommendations:

Engine Oil: 5 quarts 20w50
Steering Fluid: Penrite Steering Box Fluid (1 pint)
Transmission Fluid: Red Line 75w90 NS (4 quarts)
Rear Diff Fluid: 20w50??? (2 quarts)
Brake Fluid: Castrol GT LMA (DOT3/4) (1-2 pints)
Coolant: Water (no antifreeze)

Since my engine is basically new (new pistons, sleeves, and rings), should I use 10w30 instead of 20w50?

As for the diff, I'm unable to find the exact reference, but I rememeber reading that it works best with "engine oil". Since the diffs in my other vehicles all use something like 75w90, I suspect that I'm mis-remembering.

Do these recommendations seem accurate?
 
The list looks acceptable to me except for the rear diff. fluid. For that, you really do need an "EP" (extreme pressure) lubricant. I suspect you could used the same Red Line as you're using in the transmission IF that is indeed an EP lubricant.
 
rlandrum said:
I'm having a hard time tracking down the appropriate fluids for my TR3A. It seems there's a lot of misinformation out there, or rather, information that is later disputed by a more senior poster.

I have an empty car. No fluids.

I need to purchase:

Engine Oil
Steering Fluid
Transmission Fluid
Rear Diff Fluid
Brake Fluid
Coolant

So far, I have assembled the following recommendations:

Engine Oil: 5 quarts 20w50 <span style="font-style: italic"><span style="font-weight: bold">Use 30W for break-in</span></span>
Steering Fluid: Penrite Steering Box Fluid (1 pint)
Transmission Fluid: Red Line 75w90 NS (4 quarts)<span style="font-style: italic"><span style="font-weight: bold">or Valvoline Racing 20W-50</span></span>
Rear Diff Fluid: 20w50??? (2 quarts)
Brake Fluid: Castrol GT LMA (DOT3/4) (1-2 pints)<span style="font-style: italic"><span style="font-weight: bold">NO Go with Silicone</span></span>
Coolant: Water (no antifreeze) <span style="font-style: italic"><span style="font-weight: bold">distilled water and antifreeze 50/50 + water wetter</span></span>
Since my engine is basically new (new pistons, sleeves, and rings), should I use 10w30 instead of 20w50?

As for the diff, I'm unable to find the exact reference, but I rememeber reading that it works best with "engine oil". Since the diffs in my other vehicles all use something like 75w90, I suspect that I'm mis-remembering.

Do these recommendations seem accurate?
Click to expand...
 
Pretty much all the fluids are open to continuing debate; there is no real consensus even among long-time TR owners. So here are my <span style="font-weight: bold">opinions</span> based mostly on my experiences in some 35 years of TR3 ownership and daily driving.

For the DC area, I'd stick with the 20W50 unless you plan on driving mostly in winter or are trying to squeeze out that last mpg. But you can try 10W30 if you want; it won't hurt anything as long as your hot oil pressure is adequate. After bad experiences with some other brands, I'd suggest Valvoline brand (and I run their 20W50 full synthetic).

I once contacted the folks at Redline about their recommendation for a TR gearbox; they said MTL rather than NS. I've been trying the MTL myself, and so far haven't seen that it's any better than the (much cheaper) VR 20W50.

IMO, Penrite in the steering box is a bad idea. It's heavy body is useful if the box leaks and you're not willing to fix it properly, but it will also make the steering even heavier than it is normally. I use Valvoline synthetic gear oil in mine, and love it.

I also use the Valvoline full synthetic gear oil in the differential; and credit it for making the diff in TS39781LO last for well over 100,000 miles under my ownership, when it was already well-worn (sloppy) when I got the car.

IMO you must use something in the coolant to suppress corrosion. The aluminum thermostat housing; the head gasket; and even the solder joints in the radiator will corrode and eventually fail with plain water. After a bad experience with Redline Water Wetter, I still use about 30% ordinary antifreeze for it's anti-corrosion properties (and change it every 2-3 years).

PS, the Castrol LMA brake fluid will work; but I much prefer DOT 5 (silicone). Sooner or later, the seals in the MCs will start to weep, and Castrol will not only ruin the paint in the area but promote corrosion under the paint. Silicone will not only not harm the paint, but help preserve it. I believe the seals last longer with DOT 5 as well.

If you do go with the LMA, be sure to change it every 2-3 years with fluid from a freshly opened can. The "low moisture activity" is mostly marketing hype, it will still suck water from the air (and salt from the road if you ever drive on a salted road).

PPS, Roadster Factory has a good deal on DOT 5 by the quart. Since it doesn't absorb moisture from the air, it's OK to keep and use a partial bottle.
 
sp53 said:
I thought the tranny took 30W oil?
Click to expand...
Starting around 1960, Triumph recommended EP gear oil. Legend has it that the change was due to excessive failures of the gearbox thrust washers with motor oil.

AFAIK, the only person recommending 30 weight non-detergent today is John Esposito, who also recommends replacing the thrust washers with Torrington bearings and upgrading the countershaft bearings.
 
Excellent advice.

So far:

Engine Oil: 5q 20w50 Full Synthetic (10w30 in cold climates, 30w50 for break-in)
Steering Fluid: 1pt 75w90 Synthetic Gear oil (Penrite is too stiff)
Transmission Fluid: 2q Valvoline Racing 20w50 (VR1) or Redline 75w90 MTL (not NS)
Diff Fluid: 2q 75w90 Synthetic Gear Oil
Brake Fluid: 2pt DOT 5 Silicon
Coolant: 50/50 Water/Antifreeze with Water Wetter (optional)
 
rlandrum said:
Excellent advice.

So far:

Engine Oil: 5q 20w50 Full Synthetic (10w30 in cold climates, 30w50 for break-in)
Steering Fluid: 1pt 75w90 Synthetic Gear oil (Penrite is too stiff)
Transmission Fluid: 2q Valvoline Racing 20w50 (VR1) or Redline 75w90 MTL (not NS)
Diff Fluid: 2q 75w90 Synthetic Gear Oil
Brake Fluid: 2pt DOT 5 Silicon
Coolant: 50/50 Water/Antifreeze with Water Wetter (optional)
<span style="font-weight: bold">6 Pack of a great Pilsner in the Boot</span>
Click to expand...

I can do it too Frank
 
I have just switched my engine from Castrol 20W50 to Valvoline VR1 20W50 and also installed the spin-on filter (Wix 51516). Oil pressure is showing about 10PSI higher at speed, although idle pressure is about the same after a long run.
 
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