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TR2/3/3A TR3A No Start

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M_Pied_Lourd

M_Pied_Lourd

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Hi Guys,

Well, the test engine start didn't go so well today. Had it running for about 10 seconds on ether before shutting it down as it was revving to about 3000 rpms.

We are getting spark at the plugs. We installed an electric fuel pump and have flow to the float bowls. We took the cap off the float bowls and manual filled the bowls as well. Took the jets out, cleaned reinstalled/centered etc.

Checked the plugs after alot of cranking and I am thinking that they should be quite wet but they are dry. So definately wondering about this...

BTW, we did swap out an extra set of carbs and swapped out for a different dizzy with pertronix installed but no difference.

Pretty much out of ideas at the moment..

So, any suggestions from the experts on where to start with my non start issues?
Cheers,
M. Pied Lourd
 
Hey Dave. I was wondering how that went for you guys today. How about the distributors being 180 out of sync ?
Is the drive gear and the driven dog off center like the 6 ?.
The couple of times I installed the drive gear 180 out of sync I at least got a loud "pop" when I tried to start up which let me know "I did it again".
I don't know what if any signal a 4 cylinder would give you though.
 
Hey Ken,

I think that they dizzy is ok. Since I didn't have the motor apart at all, I dropped the dizzy back in where I took it out. Yes, the drive gear/dog are offset like the 6 so there is only one way that it will go in. I also made reference marks when I pulled it so it should be ok.

Thanks for the reply though. I had ScottD from 6PACK working with me all day and both of us are a bit stumped. Typical TR6 guys :smile:

Cheers,
Dave
 
if the plugs are dry then the fuel isn't getting thru the carbs ,..correct?
 
I agree...if it runs on ether you,ve got too much air or too little gas.

Sorry to hear it didn't go well...

John
 
take the filters off and crank the engine with the palm of your hand over the intake on the carbs, that should get some gas sucked into the cylinders

Hondo
 
It might be that the timing is very advanced, but still on the right tooth. Did you try moving the distributor back and forth? I think you want to move the vacuum side in toward the engine to retard the timing. There is also the little knob timing deal, put that in the center, so you have equal adjusting distance for later and move the distributor body to about 3/8 of an inch past the whole in the pulley (TDC)with a timming light, but the plugs should be wet.
 
Hi Guys,

Valve lash was checked prior to start up.

We put the dizzy back in the way it came out. We did loosen the clamp and tried to get her to fire by retarding/advancing the timing during cranking. No go.

Filters are off the car. I can try to cover the carb throat and see what happens.

Yes, I think that the issue is I am not getting fuel into the cylinders for some reason.

Thanks for the reply's guys. Keep them coming.

Cheers,
Dave
 
If it runs on Aerostart then the ignition side would seem OK.

Presume the floats are correctly set at 7/16".

Sometimes SU's refuse to play ball on initial start-up unless given plenty of choke. Only choking the front carby is sufficient.

Regarding the high revs, loosen one W clip and check that both butterflies are fully backed off. Check the idle increasing screw that sits on a cam on the left side of the front carby. Check that both throttle rod linkages are lubricated and allowing the carby throttle shafts to return to their stops. Add return tension to the coil springs on the throttle shafts.

Obtaining a good idle on sidescreen cars often calls for an extra return spring - usually rigged from the bell crank to the generator adjuster bracket.

Viv.
 
poolboy said:
The couple of times I installed the drive gear 180 out of sync I at least got a loud "pop" when I tried to start up which let me know "I did it again".
I don't know what if any signal a 4 cylinder would give you though.
Click to expand...

Not that I'll admit first-hand knowledge, but yes, the 4 cylinder will make that exact same sound :smile: But it definitely sounds like this is a fuel issue in Dave's case - Viv's suggestion of checking butterflies is good I think - perhaps too lean initially due to linkage?
 
Hi Viv and Randy,

Thanks for jumping in. The high revs I believe were due to the ether and not with the linkage (I think). I have been manually pulling on the jet control connecting rod to pull down the jets while cranking. Still no go. I did check the float level. I also pulled the float bowl off entirely and made sure that the bottom ports were open and not blocked. I also cleaned/checked the needle and seat assembly on the tops of each float bowl and they seem to be fine.

I think that my next step tomorrow is to take the carbs back off the car and play around with the jets a little and make sure that I have them set intially at around the middle (12 flats I think that it is).

Thanks again.

Dave
 
Oh, was going to try one thing tomorrw before taking the carbs off. I was going to open the throttle plates and squirt a small amount of fuel into each carb and then turn it over to see the response.

Good idea or bad idea?

Cheers,
Dave
 
Dave, you still shouldn't get the revs that high unless you are getting extra air from somewhere. an air leak would explain not drawing fuel...

John
 
:iagree:
It takes both fuel and air to combust; ether only provides the fuel. You're looking for a fairly gross leak, like maybe the intake manifold is hung up on a locating pin and not firmly against the gasket.
 
Thanks guys. Am planning on taking the carbs/manifold off today anyway to inspect/adjust. Will be sure to check.

Cheers,
David
 
You said you installed an electric fuel pump. If the setting on that is too high and the vents are not open or looped on top off the carbs, it is possible to shut the fuel off with too much fuel pressure. The carbs only need 2 psi.
 
Hi SP,

I am thinking that even if I have a fuel pump issue, as long as the float bowls are full (I filled them manually by taking the tops off and then re-installing), I am thinking that there should be enough fuel in the bowl to a least get the car to start and run for a few seconds. make sence?

Cheers,
Dave
 
Yup.
What doesn't make sense to me is having too much fuel pressure result in too little fuel flow. Usually, too much pressure results in fuel running everywhere, as the floats are not strong enough to hold the valve closed against the pressure.
 
Randall,

I am going to start by taking the intake off and having a look at the gaskets etc. I have a spare intake or two so I will swap the intake out entirely to see if it makes any difference. When I swapped the carbs as one of my earlier trials to get it to start, I didn't swap the manifold.

I think that would be as good a place to start as any.

Cheers,
Dave
 
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