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TR2/3/3A TR3A mystery wires

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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]I'd really like to take my TR up to Stowe this year - never been there.
[/QUOTE]

How about meeting Kodanja and me at the "British By The Sea Show" in Waterford at Harkness State Park June 3rd?

Here's an application.....
 
NutmegCT said:
...

Also noticed when under the dash there's no "trip odometer" reset cable. Just a 1/4 inch stub sticking out of the bottom of the speedometer.
Click to expand...

It's not a cable, it's a shaft with a hole for a cotter pin on one end, and a brass knurled knob on the other. They are very often missing from the speedos. I really don't know why. I've seen one speedo where the hole on the reset inside the speedo was broken. In that case, the reset shaft/knob would fall on the floor. If you look at the bottom of the dash where the speedo is, you will see the hole where this thingie comes through. I've made several of them for myself and others in the Triumph club I belong to.

See attachment...that one's an original.

Edit: BTW, you have to take the speedo apart to put this piece in. Then you have to feed the shaft through the hole in the bottom of the dash when you re-install the speedo. PITA. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/crazyeyes.gif
 
Paul - if I can get off work I'll see you guys at BTTS. I work as an 1830s farmer up at Old Sturbridge Village in the summer. Someone has to plow those fields, plant the corn, and slop the hogs!

Art - you've got me interested. How can I be sure what you make is what I need? I know about the "hole in the bottom of the dash" where the shaft and knob come through. But all I've got on the bottom of the speedo is what looks like a 1/4 inch length of 12 gauge copper wire. I'd hate to buy your gizmo, take apart the speedo, and then find your replacement wouldn't do the trick.

Tom
 
Well, first of all, I'm not selling these things. My original speedo didn't have one, so I bought a speedo from e-bay that did. Also, it was my original speedo that had the hole broke where the "gizmo" attaches to the reset...that 1/4" piece hanging down from the speedo. Between the two speedos, I was able to make one good one. Since there were a couple of guys in the club that needed the reset shafts, and I had an original, I just made a few. I didn't charge anyone for them, as it was a one hand washes the other affair. I retained the original as a template in case I ever had to make more. No, I'm not going into mass production, but if you want the dimensional data, I can supply that to you.

If you got one of these, it would work provided the hole where it attaches for the cotter pin is OK. Then there is the problem of the fiber gears inside. Very often they are stripped out. If both the total mileage and trip mileage numbers are working, then you're OK in that area. If either one of them is not working, then the fiber gear is stripped for the one that is not working. This is very common, because the steel shaft for the gear runs in an aluminium housing, and the original lube grease becomes stiff and dry after many years and binds up the shaft. When that happens, the teeth on the fiber gear strips right off. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cryin.gif
 
https://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p52/mrv8q/IMG_0530.jpg
Tom, just for yuks, I posted a picture of my working electrics, so you can compare. Although my car doesn't (now) have a radio, there's a condensor there. I found proof of a previous radio install, though, by 4 holes on the gearbox tunnel... and a radio antenna on the fender.

You might need a proper flasher, if yours doesn't work.... TRF sells them for $9, and I think they're different from modern ones. Hope that helps!
 
Tom - The little black wire to the right of your voltage regulator in your first photo is a ground wire. It should have a grounding eyelet on the end and this is grounded to the body with a #6 or a #8 truss head screw to the top right of the regulator. The hole for this sheetmetal screw should be in the flange where the battery box rim folds flat over the scuttle next to the regulator, sort of above the clamp that holds the threaded rod that secures the left end of the battery bar as you are looking at the battery.

Don Elliott, Original Owner, 1958 TR3A
 
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