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TR2/3/3A TR3A Missing Parts List

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Ouch! that's an intergal part of the body of the carb.
I'm assuming your planning on rebuilding the carbs? If so, go ahead and dismantle that carb, inspect it, and decide if everything else is good. (no major pitting, throttle shaft is good, etc...) If it's in good order otherwise, you should be able to find a fabrication shop that could TIG weld that tab back on for a reasonable price. Find a shop that makes ductwork for HVAC systems, or a machine shop they should have a TIG.
 
Wow, $500 is a steal. -I got mine for free, but it was missing a lot of parts and spent a couple days under 20 feet of salt water. -I've already spent $10k and I think you have more than I do.

This is a very addictive hobby. I hope you enjoy it as much as I do.

Jerry
 
Banjo said:
Ouch! that's an intergal part of the body of the carb.
I'm assuming your planning on rebuilding the carbs? If so, go ahead and dismantle that carb, inspect it, and decide if everything else is good. (no major pitting, throttle shaft is good, etc...) If it's in good order otherwise, you should be able to find a fabrication shop that could TIG weld that tab back on for a reasonable price. Find a shop that makes ductwork for HVAC systems, or a machine shop they should have a TIG.
Click to expand...

Yes, I plan to keep them. They look to be in good condition. I swear I saw a rebuild kit on TRF, but now I can't seem to find it.

I have a mig welder, which I can outfit for Aluminum, if that is in fact what they are, but I think I'm gonna try to get it welded by a professional locally.
 
The carb bodies are some sort of aluminum alloy, but IMO it would be better to try to solder rather than weld. The bodies are machined fairly precisely, and the heat of welding is more apt to cause it to warp IMO.

Hmmm, I'm finding conflicting information on TRF's web site. The TR2-3 mini-catalog says P/N SU5 is for H6 carbs, while the TR4-A version says SU5 is for HS6. However since the parts database shows applicability to TR3, I think it's most likely for H6. Probably best to call, to be sure.

That kit doesn't include throttle shafts or bushings, but they are available in RFK138 (which does both carbs).
 
Hmm... Soldering may actually be the better choice. I'm worried about my torch not being hot enough, since it's really designed for plumbing applications.

Anyone every done any soldering with MAPP gas torch? Is it fairly easy to achieve a good result?
 
I've not tried on aluminum, but brazing on steel is surprisingly easy with MAPP gas. Didn't have the MAPP gas the only time I've tried aluminum soldering; and you're right, the propane just wouldn't get it hot enough.
 
I'd find someone with a dedicated TIG. They would be able to give the tab a quick "zap" and the heat would be minimal compared to the extended heating necessary to solder it. the carbs are aluminum. I've had to have them TIGed before. A set I was rebuilding had the little tab that the idle adjust screw in it broken off of one of the carb bodies. I had a shop take 5 minutes and TIG it. Never hurt the rest of the carb, and I was able to take my dremel and grind and polish it till you never saw the repair. I actually had them just make a solid tab, and I re-drilled and tapped it for the idle screw.
TRF and Moss both sell rebuild kits. But use thier catalogs illustrations to positivly identify which carbs you have. Don't go by the model car you have.
 
Banjo Is absolutely correct DON`T try and solder it! Wayyyyyyyyyy too much heat! M.I.G.ing it is not a good idea either, for a number of reasons. The biggest bieng you will not get a good weld using the short arc M.I.G. process. Your best bet is take it to a pro. Weld shop, they will fix it in a jiffy.
 
I give up,my computer is way to slow. I suggest that you believe these guys. I got to pix# 10 and quit. I see that you will need a ignition switch someday thats some NAPA part. Here is a bonus that I saw, you have a factory TR250 gas cap.Ebay it and use the good cash u get to buy some parts.
 
welll looked at more pix....what year is your 3, a few more bonus's and....some not.You have the holder for the optional ash tray,it looks like the badge off an early GT-6,the spears look like Healey.Velocity stacks are for a weber.The not so good, the floor pan has been replaced pix#18,a good job but incorrect.The baulkhead/floor flange is suppose to stick out,not fold under.
 
Well shoot me for sacrilege but have you considered JBWeld?

I have always has considerable success with the stuff... if the break you have is a bit jagged and the pieces fit well it could be a solution. I do not think that eyelet takes a lot of force since the choke pulls with a sort of scissor action to move the jet.

Clean surfaces, some sort of key (jagged ends), clamping and wait a full 24 hours.
 
Geo Hahn said:
Clean surfaces, some sort of key (jagged ends), clamping and wait a full 24 hours.
Click to expand...
Using the slow-curing version, of course. The "5 minute" stuff isn't nearly as strong.

If you need to build up an area or section (like if you don't have the broken piece), then mixing in a small amount of glass fiber seems to improve strength.

In this case, you could possibly also do something like drill a pair of small holes then bend a small nail or stout wire to fit snugly into the holes, and use JB Weld as filler material.

Never tried JB Weld on a carb body, but I've had moderate success with it in other locations. In spite of it's name, it's a pretty low strength material (advertised tensile strength is roughly 1/3 that of plexiglas, for example), but it works fairly well otherwise.
 
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