• Hey Guest!
    British Car Forum has been supporting enthusiasts for over 25 years by providing a great place to share our love for British cars. You can support our efforts by upgrading your membership for less than the dues of most car clubs. There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Upgraded members don't see this banner, nor will you see the Google ads that appear on the site.)
Tips
Tips

TR2/3/3A TR3A Missing Parts List

Share this page

rlandrum

rlandrum

Jedi Trainee
Offline
Here it is... the TR3A that I bought.

00002.jpg


https://xjguy.com/triumph/dec10/800x600/

This car was restored once before. After inspection, I don't think I have ANY rust repair. There's the small spot under the drivers heel, but I think that I can just sand and repaint, since it's all surface rust.

Now I'm looking for a few pieces. I need to replace the Hood "Bonnet" hinges, as these are damaged. I'd prefer used, in good condition, if anyone has any.

I'm also in need of 2 Floor plugs that appear to go under the driver and passenger seats, or nearly so.

And last, but not least, windshield glass. This glass is cracked, and definitely won't pass state inspection that way.

Depending on if the PO can find the items, I may also need:

Red Rear Dome shaped (inside) Marker Light (just one, I have the other).
Front headlight Bezel (Passenger side).
Wiper arm (I have one of two).
Wiper motor (missing completely, I may have brackets though).
Brake and Clutch master cylinders (I have a part of one, I think).
Emblems (Triumph logo on rear, Flag on passenger wing).

PM if you have any of the pieces and I'll get back to you today.
 
What fun you have ahead of you. I assume you know that most of what you need is available from the Big 3 vendors. Perhaps you prefer original parts though in the case of some of those they get replaced often enough that any used parts may also be repros.

Some comments --

The headlight rings varied so you will want to specify exact which style you need.

Master Cylinders -- used ones would be suspect, new originals are probably still available.

Likewise, used rubber plugs and used windscreen glass may not be particularly good.

Rear Triumph logo -- if you end up going new, in my experience the one from TRF is MUCH nicer that the one from Moss.

I know of no 'Flag on passenger wing', possibly an aftermarket addition.
 
I'm familiar with the big three, but I like the petina that original equipment tends to have, especially when the rest of the car will be original. Having nice shiny hinges on the front, and dull pitted ones on the back looks bad, IMHO.

I'll purchase new rubber plugs. I wasn't sure if they were rubber or metal, as the hole is quite large.

In one of my books, the front passenger wing contains a small british flag emblem. I guess it's aftermarket.

I don't have any problems rebuilding the master and clutch cylinders, assuming it's cheaper to buy those and a rebuild kit than to just order new.
 
Overall, looks better than my TR3 project !

A few comments :

I'd just replace all 4 hinges with new. They aren't expensive and the reproductions are at least as good as the originals. They break so easily that the chances of finding a true original are very slim anyway, IMO. Note that there are actually 4 different hinges, each is unique to it's corner. If you mix them up, they will break. Since your car may be a mixture of parts, also check that the body, hood & trunk lid all either have or don't have the raised, reinforced section for the hinges. The later bodies had added reinforcements under the hinges, while the earlier ones did not ... mixing parts will both look silly and add stress to the hinges. Looks like yours match, but I can't tell for sure from the photos. TRF also sells very nice repros of the little pads that go between the hinges & the body, at a reasonable price.

When you get the new hinges, check the length of the studs and trim them as short as possible. They are supplied longer than necessary for the early bodies and the extra length may interfere with other things. Then use Loctite to hold the studs into the hinges, for extra strength.

'Correct' new MCs have been unavailable for a long time. There are new ones that fit and work fine, but they don't look the same. If the bores are in good shape, then it's definitely cheaper to rebuild yours than to buy new.

The rubber jack plugs (in the floor) get hard and brittle with age. If you really want used ones, I'll give you the ones out of TS39781LO, but they aren't worth it, IMO. And since they are normally covered by mat/carpet, they are not an appearance item.

Wing badges were sometimes added by dealers, so the one you saw isn't necessarily 'wrong'. But the factory didn't start doing that until long after the last TR3.

The fender beads are not supposed to be painted ... your choice of course, but if you leave it "wrong", you'll get VERY tired of everyone telling you so /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif Ditto the trunk handle (unless that's just dirt).

That spiral-wrapped thing hanging next to the brake pedal is the 'capillary' tube for the temperature gauge. If the gauge still works, be very careful of the tube. It's fragile, and the smallest crack will ruin the gauge.

Those are TR4A manifolds, which take up more room than the TR3A originals ... very likely the air filters will hit against the inner fender and you may have trouble getting the exhaust routed. A custom exhaust will be necessary, as neither stock exhaust will fit.

Looks like a late model starter ring gear, too. Make sure you use the starter that matches it. Be sure the custom exhaust leaves room to R&R the starter.

I can probably help with parts, but I'm notoriously slow about such things and have currently suspended garage time until I can get a few things fixed around the house (like the furnace). Try with your local club and PO first, then PM me if you can't find what you need. Also get in touch with Fred Thomas in Stafford, he knows where to get lots of things.
 
And I suppose you probably think all basket-case TRs look like yours. Ha. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif

Looks to me like you got quite a deal all around. I agree with Randall: buy new hinges all around and make sure each gets in the right spot, then you'll be fine for many years (hopefully).

There are a couple of chrome or stainless steel trim "spears" that definitely don't look like original TR3, but I can't see them well enough to figure out just what they are. And the small blue and white Triumph "shield" is from a Spitfire or Herald. Was there a badge and/or letters for the front apron?
 
I assumed the Blue and white was the only emblem on the front. There's nothing on there right now.

Here's a much larger version (1.9 MB) of the photo with the spears.

https://xjguy.com/triumph/dec10/orig/00037.jpg

That photo shows the pieces that I was unable to fully identify. There'a hand full of brackets, too, which I didn't photograph, but I think that they're from under the dash. Any help in the identification would be awesome.

I know of no car as old as this that looks as good as this car. And to have only paid $500, I'm starting to feel like I may have pulled one over on the PO.
 
Looks like a great starting point for a nice driver. Wash it up and you'll be amazed at the difference. I'd pressure wash it inside and out then dry it off with compressed air.

INVENTORY your parts - match them up with the caralogs if you don't know what something is.

As Randall noted, you have a TR4A exhaust manifold (desireable), later intake but it appears from the picture angle that you still have H6 SU carbs. The later TR4A uses a HS6 (the S stands for short body). Short body is needed for inner fender clearance because the long runner intake + the long-body H6's wouldn't clear. At glance, I'm not sure which intake you have as there were 3. Your's is not original. Check the engine # against the catalogs to determine what engine you have too.

Definitely NOT a basket case. You've got s few rust issues but not real hard ones but I'm sure more will pop-out once you get going.

From what you said, I assume you're just going to get it running and on the road. This looks like a pretty decent original car under all that mess. So try to preserve the originality as much as you can, in case you ever want to seriously restore it.
 
Closer to $5,000 than $500. You got a deal you'll never forget.

Of, course to restore it to original condition would probably cost $40,000 these days. But you'd still have a really nice $28,000 car after you restore it concours. And only paid $40,500.

Seriously, it's not cheap to fix TR up, but it can be done on a budget. Enjoy!!
 
Intake looks to be from a TR4, not 4a, but they were very similar..

with the 4a exhaust and the long runner intake, and velocity stacks as spares it look like someone wanted to pep things up a bit..

Randy
 
rlandrum said:
That photo shows the pieces that I was unable to fully identify.
Click to expand...
Starting near the upper left, the thing with the spring goes at the front of the bonnet opening, to push the bonnet up when the Dzus buttons are released and to receive the prop rod once it's open.
Next to that is the lower bracket for one of the front shocks. The spears in the back are from some other car, possibly a Herald or something. In front of the spears is one of the links for the rear spring shackles. In front of that is the bellcrank that goes on the original intake manifold for the throttle linkage. Then a sidecurtain mounting bracket.
Not sure about the bolt, but might be for a rear bumperette, or the steering box attachment to the frame. The badge is from another car, again maybe a Herald. Don't recognize the piece in front of that, but I don't think it's from a TR3A.
The velocity stacks are aftermarket items. Suitable only for racing, IMO, running without air filters on the street is a quick way to wear out an engine (although the original 'rock catcher' filters aren't much better).
Can't tell about the metal sleeve, might be for the front A-arms. The spacer goes between the body & the frame. The electrical gizmo is a ruined fuse block from a later TR. In front of it is a half-set of engine thrust washers. And of course, a clutch slave cylinder with it's mounting bracket and support rod.

In the background at the upper left, I see a voltage regulator (control box) from a later TR3A-4A (your car should have screw terminals rather than quick-connect Lucar terminals), an old NEC computer monitor (not original equipment on a TR), a clutch disc (can't tell if it's a TR2-4 or later 4A), a handbrake lever and some other stuff I can't identify.
 
Oh yeah, $500 WAS a steal ! I paid over 5 times that for my TR3 project, and I still think I got a very good deal.
 
TR3driver said:
...The spears in the back are from some other car, possibly a Herald or something....The badge is from another car, again maybe a Herald....
Click to expand...
The spears aren't Herald, but they might possibly be from a Triumph 10 sedan or estate wagon (earlier style), as seen here . The badge definitely is Herald or Spitfire (or Vitesse/Sports 6). The badge on the front apron would be much larger and would have TR3 on it. Yours could be either red and black, or it could be blue and white. Again, that depends on the commission number of the car.
 
This has come up several times already, but the engine actually did come out of this car at one point. It wasn't modified once it was removed, so I know it'll go back in exactly as it sits.

I have the starter motor that goes with the engine. I didn't photograph it. I also have the generator.

The PO said, when I picked it up, that it didn't have air filters on it. I now know that's probably because they wouldn't fit with the larger intake.

I guess whoever did the previous restoration decided that performance trumped originality. That's actually not surprising considering some of the other "features" of this car. For instance, it has no spare, and it appears that the spare tire cover once had it's holes sealed with bondo and later ground off by someone (poorly, I might add). It also has no rear seat. And the rear fenders aren't metal, probably fiberglass.

Tonight I will clean the car, and take a few more photos.

TR3driver: Thank you very much for looking at, and identifying, everything in that photo.
 
The rear "occasional" seat was an option, so yours hasn't necessarily been removed. Not really useful as a seat anyway, IMO, but I added one anyway mostly as a package shelf for groceries and a cooler on long trips. Just plywood and bent strap iron, drilled for the captive nuts already in the body. Always meant to upholster it, but never did.

Interesting about the spare tire compartment. Last TR3 I saw like that had been confiscated by US Customs ... someone was apparently using the spare tire compartment to smuggle pot up from Mexico.

Your PO didn't happen to find the car in California, did he ?
/bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif
 
I agree with what's been said before. At least the externals on that engine are from a TR4A. TR2-4 never saw a double pipe exhaust manifold and that is Definatly a TR4a intake manifold too.
Get the casting number off the side of the engine. It may have come out of that car, but someone in the past has retrofitted it in there.
It's not a problem at all. it was a very common swap, and gave extra horsepower.
The other thing that tips me off is the rubber hose running off the back of the waterpump housing. Originally it would have been a steel tube to the rear of the head. ending at the back of the head on a TR2-3-3A, or crossing behind the head on a TR4-4A. I suspect that was how they got around not having the correct piece.
I'd go ahead and use that engine. you'll never regret it.
Excellent deal!! what a find. I found my 54 TR2 in about the same shape body-wise for $900 All my floorpans and rockers are solid. I have very little metal work to do.
But the TR3 engine that came with it is in about 100 pieces.
Luckily I have a TR4A engine (hey weren't we just talking about that) to use in mine. If I had a #s matching car I'd keep it original. But I don't, so TR4A motor it is!!!
 
Likely you know all about this Banjo, but just in case someone else doesn't and happens to read this thread ... a TR4-4A engine won't simply drop into a TR2-3B unless you also change the front plate. The motor mounts are in the wrong place.

You could easily be right about the heater hose, but that's also a common mod after the original steel tube plugs up or rots through. I've done it myself.
 
TR3driver said:
Likely you know all about this Banjo, but just in case someone else doesn't and happens to read this thread ... a TR4-4A engine won't simply drop into a TR2-3B unless you also change the front plate. The motor mounts are in the wrong place.

You could easily be right about the heater hose, but that's also a common mod after the original steel tube plugs up or rots through. I've done it myself.
Click to expand...
Spot-on old chap!
On both counts. That hose could very well just have been to bypass a rust hole in the pipe.
I had also thought about that front plate as well.
Right after writing that last post I went out to the garage where I have the TR3 and 4a motors sitting side by side, and closely inspected the front plates. I knew there was a visual difference between the two (aside from the measurement) but I couldent remember where it was.
I looked at the two, then looked at the posted picture of the motor out of this TR3.
I can say, that, if he does in fact have a TR4A motor, someone has changed the front plate already (Been there done that myself before) . His motor has the TR3 front plate, so he's ok there.
 
I think I may need one more part.

During transport of the engine, I managed to knock off one corner of the eyelet used for holding the throttle linkage on the carb.

Is that aluminum? I'll photograph it tonight to see if the board thinks it's worth saving or replacing. Just curious if anyone has a spare they'd be willing to part with. According to a previous post, that would be a H6 SU carb.
 
Back
Top