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TR2/3/3A TR3A Master Cylinder Reservoir

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Tinkerman

Tinkerman

Darth Vader
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Morning all, Got up this morning to about 2 inches of snow on the ground. First one this year for Central Tennessee.
I got the pedal hanger and master cylinders installed yesterday, I might add that it was a bunch of fun. I got the reservoir out of storage that I had purchased on eBay. Exterior is beautiful, but the chap that sold it to me didn't clean out the interior. So I'm in the process of taking it apart. I'm wondering what to use for washers for the flange couplings? First one I got apart had a one copper washer. Don't know about the other. I do know that they tend to leak at that point and I really want to prevent that.

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Tinkerman
 
Dick, have copper washers on mine. Since you are starting dry have you thought about a dot5? I redid all that you are are doing, redid the pedals, housing, cylinders etc and dot4....leaked at the resevoir underneath and had to redo everything.....fluid went down the pedels etc...beauty
 
Did it leak before or after you did the rebuild? What kind of copper washers did you use? I checked with TRF and they had no washers. Haven't checked with Moss. I have an assortment of copper washers. I might try those, if I can find one that fits.
I'm using dot3.

Tinkerman
 
I looked on Moss' site, and they didn't list anything about the washers. I guess these guys just want you to buy a whole new can for $90. :eeek:

I seem to recall two rubber washers on the inside of mine, but then again, my old brain sometimes goes whacky, maybe they were copper.
 
I just undid the second pipe connection. The one that goes into the main part of the can. I guess that one is the brake master cylinder and the smaller is for the clutch? Anyhow this one just had a flat washer, steel kinda thick. But no copper or rubber washer involved. I think I will use 4 copper washers 2 on both pipe connection and do the old "let it stand" over night and see if it leaks test. I'll let you know how it comes out, so to speak.
 
Maybe that's what I remember, the thick steel washer...and, yes the smaller internal tube section is for the clutch, so make sure you have the tubing going to the correct master when you install it.
 
When I got mine the reservoir was leaking and just replaced it. It looked like there might be a problem at the bottom other than the connections. The replacement VB one appears to have a copper washer in it. I'm not sure that the old/original did. I would encourage you to bench bleed the cylinders ahead of time with the reservoir and supply lines attached or risk getting the paint remover all over. Been there done that.
 
Just a thought, Dick: If you use the old copper washers you can anneal them to soften them and they might seal better. A quick way is to heat them just to cherry red with a propane torch and let them air cool. Don't go past cherry red; I have experimented with this! Oops!
 
After a total cleaning of the interior of the reservoir I find surface rust on the interior of the can. About 10% of it in fact and that doesn't tell me what might be under the seams either. Looks to me that it would be time to pony up the bucks for a new one. Unless someone can tell me how to beat the rust problem?

Tinkerman
 
Dick
Evapo rust Will not damage the paint, or you hands. Leave it in the reservoir for 24 hours. I got it at our local Tractor Supply. Then test with Brake fuild. These reservoirs are soldered at the seams.

Paul
 
Thanks Paul, sounds just like what I need and there is a Tractor Supply here in town.
How's your car coming?

Thanks, dick
 
Dick
Slow with flashes of speed. Got one side of the front suspension off with my uncle's help. Today I experimented with some new powder coating powders.
4160865565_45b548f37e_m.jpg
I like the refective chrome coating. It looks like polished Al (fulcrum pin). I don't know what the final look on the suspension will be yet. But I know it will not be dead stock.

Paul
 
Randall, I called TS today and they have one gallon of it so I had them put my name on it and will pick it up tomorrow. I suspect that I will go with the silicone brake fluid. You and Don have convinced me that it makes big sense to do that. My one question is, I rebuilt my masters using dot3 fluid, do I need to rebuild them and clean them with alcohol or some type of fluid and then re-assemble them using the silicone fluid. The rest of the system is bone dry.
Your thoughts on that would be appreciated.
I thank you for your help that you provide all of us in our rebuild efforts.

Best regards, Dick
 
Tinkerman said:
My one question is, I rebuilt my masters using dot3 fluid, do I need to rebuild them and clean them with alcohol or some type of fluid and then re-assemble them using the silicone fluid.
Click to expand...
That would probably be "best practice". However, I have converted several times now by just bleeding each wheel until I get clear purple fluid, and it's worked out fine.

If there is any DOT 3/4 left in the system, it will stay separate from the DOT 5 and collect in some idle spot (like the bottom of the rear brake slave cylinders). Doesn't seem to hurt anything at all, but does look messy when you take them apart.

So it's up to you. But it's easy enough to pop the MCs apart to wipe them out, so I'd probably do it.
 
Paul, I like what your doing with the powder coating, that mirror looks really good. I'm still using paint. But if I were at your stage of restoration I would probably move on to the powder coating.
Looking good!

Tinkerman
 
Tinkerman said:
Paul, I like what your doing with the powder coating, that mirror looks really good.
Click to expand...
Since this thread is about the TR3A brake/clutch fluid reservoir, perhaps it's worth mentioning that the original reservoir is held together with 'soft' solder, which will soften or melt during the PC curing process and result in leaks.
BTDT :cryin:
 
Good point! I'll be using paint on mine but others should note Randall's comment.

Thanks, Tinkerman
 
Dick,
I rebuilt everything but the resevoir and of course that leaked so had to do it all again.
I did the Dot5 conversion without flushing the system I just overbled the thing til it was a nice purple.
That was two years ago I think and no problems at all.
 
For any coatings that are needed for rough service or corrosive fluids I recommend POR15. Unbelievable resistance to gas, brake fluids, battery acid.
May be able to coat the brake reservoir too.
 
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