TR2/3/3A TR3A Inner Sill Replacement Advice

[M_Pied_Lourd]

Hi Guys,

Looking for some advice on my inner sill replacement project on my 60 TR3A.

Here is where I am at

Doing one side at a time. I have removed the old floor and clamped the new one in place. I have removed both the old outer and inner sill. I made alot of reference marks and measurements of the old sill placement and transfered them to the new sill.

Question is this, should I bolt the new sill in place on the outriggers before I weld the A and B post supports? If this is recommended, I also assume that it would be with the correct amount of mounting pads in place on the outrigger?

Or options B, no bolts but just resting on the outriggers. Any help would be appreciated.

Cheers
M. Pied Lourd

 

[M_Pied_Lourd]

Me Again,

Just reading through my Roger Williams book again. It doesn't say specifically to bolt through to the outriggers but in the photos, it definatley looks as if there are mounting bolts that are going through the new floors prior to welding....

A few more photos.

Cheers,
M. Pied Lourd

 

[hermanmaire]

Pierre,

I cant help you out because I did not do my own tr3 sills when they were changed on my car but it looks like you have a VERY nice solid car there.

I do know when I have used repair panels on my other cars, I used metal screws to hold the repair panels in place to get the tightest fit possible. Once I welded enough spot welds I removed the metal screws and welded the holes shut.

even visegrips come in handy holding panels together.

 

[JFeher]

I would bolt everything in place including the doors before welding the pillars.
Use sheet metal screws to hold the floor to the sill were you can't use clamps.
If everything is lined up and kept in place while welding you can't go wrong.

 

[Number_6]

I would highly recommend looking into getting a spotwelder. I bought one from Eastwood when I was welding the panels on my E-Type. It may seem a little expensive but the time savings and the ease of welding, it's well worth it. It runs on house current(110V). Add to that it perfectly reproduces the factory welds on the panels.

https://www.millerwelds.com/products/spotwelders/msw_and_lmsw__air-cooled_/

 

[TomMull]

I agree and would take one step further. With everything bolted, tack things together, including the posts, in a few strategic places, and dry fit the outer sills. Then try the door and front wing. (Williams show a brace system which allows the doors to be fitted with the bracing in place). I think you could remove your brace with the body on the frame, bolted and tack welded. Finish the plug welds after you are satisfied.
As for Rich's spot welder, good idea as it speeds things up, makes drilling or punching holes unnecessary (where you can get at both sides) but it's not necessary. The 110v welder is minimal for 18 ga. which is what I used in many places and probably won't go through three layers of 20, like the intersection of floor flange, inner sill (doubled) and outer sill. I would (and did) go for the 220v.
Tom

 

[M_Pied_Lourd]

Hi Tom,

Thanks for the reply.

I played around in the garage today for a little bit and got out the door and wings from where I had stored them in the basement. Definately worth the while as it certainly illustrates how everything needs to line up. I think that I might have a bit of an issue that I discovered on the B post as well....doesn't look like the leg of the b posts is sitting far enough in against the sill. I am going to need a helper to postion the A post before I tack weld it so I gave up for the afternoon.

Havent even bother with the outer sills as this point but will do so before I finish welding everything up.

Cheers,
M. Pied Lourd

 

[TomMull]

I had trouble with the one b post too, partly because the new inner sill was a bit wider than the old. The other side, from ebay (source unknown) was perfect. Tom