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TR2/3/3A Tr3a front suspension

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Bob_D

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My son and I are rebuilding a '58 TR3A, and are about to re-assemble the front suspension. My question is_- are we safe following the procedure in the 'Service Instruction Manual', or are there additional tips? We are using all new bushings, etc, but we are wondering if, for instance, lubrication is needed/preferred for the (poly) bushings on the upper wishbone?
Thanks
 
Is it just me, or has the type on BCF suddenly gotten much smaller ? Maybe it takes up less room on the server ?
:jester:

Anyway, if you are upgrading to poly (which is not covered in the factory manual
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), then some grease is a good idea. Otherwise they tend to squeak (or so I've heard). When I converted to Nylatron, I actually added grease zerks so they could have a little fresh grease from time to time.

However, you definitely do not want to grease the stock rubber bushings, as it will cause them to deteriorate; and nylon/nylatron bushings can get by with the occasional drop of oil prescribed by the manual.

I've also heard that the current supply of outer washers for the trunnions do not fit properly. Unless your old ones are mangled, I'd suggest reusing them. Any wear will be compensated by the adjustment anyway.

Opinions vary, but I never like to "pack" the hub with grease. Work both roller cages as full as you can get them, then smear a thick layer over both the race and the outer face of the rollers & cage; that's enough IMO.

Also note that the wheel bearing clearance of 1.5-2 flats given in the factory manual is larger than required. It was later revised to 0.5-1.0 flat (back off 1/2 flat, then enough to insert the cotter pin). Plus if you are replacing the felt seal, it can interfere with this process (and result in huge bearing clearances). Best IMO is to check the clearance before the seal is installed, mark the nut position, then install the seal and put the nut back where it was.

All the major vendors offer a substitute for "Churchill Tool No. M.50", which I would definitely recommend over any sort of "general purpose" spring compressor. But it's not hard to make your own version of the special tool. Mine is a length of 3/4" threaded rod from Home Depot, plus some nuts and washers, and a metal plate I found in my junk box (actually a pulley half from a VW Bug generator).

Hmm, what else ... be sure to replace all Nyloc nuts, lockwashers and cotter pins. I didn't see any need to worry about setting the steering lock stop; until I added a sway bar and wide tires. Then I used the stops to keep the tires from rubbing the bar too hard.

Be sure to check for free motion both turning and up and down before installing the spring. Bent components can cause binding.

All I can think of offhand ...
 
You haven't said if you are fitting new trunnions, but if so, they must be renewed in pairs.

New trunnion bushes have to be pressed into the arms then reamed to fit the trunnion pins.

These new trunnions probably won't be drilled for castellated nut split pins, which made it easy to set the essential end float of 004" to 012" by tightening then backing to the split pin hole. Now you have to tighten the nyloc nuts, then back off slightly. Then tap the arm out to the nyloc nut to release the splined end boss washer, to get your end float.

Don't forget the important rubber grease seal between the trunnion and the vertical link, where the threaded section of the link goes into the trunnion.

Finally, I'd suggest to get the vertical links and axles crack tested for peace of mind, as although failures are extremely rare, I've seen one and heard of two others over the last 10 or so years.

Viv

Viv.
 
TR3driver said:
Is it just me, or has the type on BCF suddenly gotten much smaller ? Maybe it takes up less room on the server ?
:jester:
Click to expand...

Noticed that too Randall.
Hey Boss some of us guys have CSS,you know Can't See S..
What's up with it?
 
I do not use any grease on the upper bushings.I would make sure the inside of the upper wishbone is not pitted too badly. If it is, try and smooth it out with something. Maybe a brake hone or light paper, but try and not take off too much metal. The little pits are not a real problem; it is the high spots. Plus they do last forever anyway. Yes make sure nothing is bent. Take a look at the lower wishbones and pans to see if they are straight. Most of them have at least hit some in 50 years. If you are looking for parts there is a guy on Ebay called mr tr3. He has a bunch of suspensions parts and whatever. He lives close by me, and I have been to his house many times and call him a friend; he lives up to his name.
 
I second mrtr3. Barry is a great resouce for parts and also to deal with.
 
Thanks for all the great advice. We're almost finished and ready to put the car back down, which leads to a specific question. We're using poly bushings for the upper a-arm, so my question is -- do you torque the upper fulcrum pin nuts to the same spec as rubber (factory manual says 26 to 40 lb/ft to suit pin hole) ?

Thanks
 
I was on my way to VTR in Colorado in 2001 when I stopped at Joe Alexander's in Cedar Falls, Iowa and I took the rotors off and changed the front wheel bearings that evening. I overtightened the nut - then backed it off - like Randall wrote. After another 2 days and 1000 miles or so, I arrived in Colorado and the inspection tech guy (another TR owner) who was doing the mechanical checking of the autocross entries before the event, found that my front bearings were very loose.

While I had thought that I had seated the back of the outer race properly, he found this looseness. After the 1000 miles, the outer race had moved inwards on both sides of the car to where they were now properly seated. It took me about 15 minutes to adjust the big nut on both sides. There was no damage and these bearings now have almost 53,000 miles on them since I did this seven years ago.

TMTSS, Check for this if you change the front wheel bearings. If you use a hydraulic press to press in the larger outer race, you shouldn't have this problem. We hadn't used a press.
 
I am not sure, but that sounds tight; however, I bet the manual say that. I read somewhere that you want two people in the car and the gas tank full to get the right static setting. I have had the poly in my driver for about 6 years and I just snuggled them until it looks and feels right. I have had and seen the thrust washers and rubber ends get ripped up, so I probably have mine a little loose. I do not race at high speed too often. In addition, I think the weight shifts and moves and one side gets a little more thrust on the A arm, front or back I cannot remember. Just drive that thing and get a feel for it. The adjustment is easy to correct.
 
I believe the torque value remains the same regardless of bushing composition, because the nut & washer don't pull up against the bushing but rather against the end of the shaft (or inner collar for the lower bushings).

For rubber bushings, the nuts should be torqued with the suspension at normal ride height. However, I don't believe this is important with nylon/poly/nylatron, as they all turn rather then deflecting as the rubber does.
 
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