TR2/3/3A TR3A floor replacement advice

[Bob_D]

Planned to do a body-on resto and have done lots of mechanical work, but the less than good floor boards keep whispering to me that they need to be replaced. Can (and is it advisable) to replace the floors with the body still on? I'm not an experienced metal worker, so I also would like advice about the likelihood that I could cut out the old panels and weld in new panels without experience. Finally, if I were to attempt this, could I do the welding with a 120v MIG welder? Also, what do you use to cut the old panels out? Thanks! Bob

 

[tdskip]

Hi Bob - I think it is generally preferable to replace the floorboard while the body is on and then, once that strength as been put back into the shell, remove the body. Others may jump in here with differing opinions and I'd encourage you to get lots of advice/do lots of research on deciding what would your best for you.

Cutting out the old panels isn't hard, just check 3 or 4 times that you know you are leaving enough good metal and not doing to cut anything under the floors like the frame and/or lines etc. A cutting disk on an angle grinder will make short work of the floors.

As to welding, it really isn't that hard but to does take practice. Having a MIG in the garage that you are comfortable using is a wonderful thing!

How bad off are the floors?

 

[rlwhitetr3b]

There has also been some discussion in this forum about using glue to attach the new floors. Some hate the idea, saying that the car will not be strong enough. Others think it would be OK.

 

[TR3driver]

Bob, here is the tool list from an article a friend of mine wrote after tackling the job on his own TR3A:

<span style="font-family: 'Fixedsys'">Some tools needed:
Air driven nibbing tool (Harbor Freight)
Air driven cut off tool (HF)
Power wire brushes
Dremel tool (Sears) with cut off wheel, various grinding bits and little wire wheels
Air impact chisel ($10 HF)
4 inch disk grinder (optional with above tools)
MIG welder (don't try gas welding)
Big can of PB Blaster
Strong putty knife.
Electric drill and bits.
Nut breaker
Body work dollies and hammers
A friend with a floor lift is a Godsend (Thanks, Jon Paschke)</span>

If you would like the entire article (PDF format but only about 16kb as there are no pictures), PM me.

I would certainly advise trying to pick up at least a little experience first. Pick up a fender at the local "Pick Your Part" junk yard, cut off one side and weld it back. With luck, you can also use it as a source of sheet metal for the small patches you'll probably wind up needed. I'd offer to give you one, but shipping from here would likely be more than it's worth.

 

[bgbassplyr]

Bob, here is the tool list from an article a friend of mine wrote after tackling the job on his own TR3A:

<span style="font-family: 'Verdana'">Some tools needed:
Air driven nibbing tool (Harbor Freight)
Air driven cut off tool (HF)
Power wire brushes
Dremel tool (Sears) with cut off wheel, various grinding bits and little wire wheels
Air impact chisel ($10 HF)
4 inch disk grinder (optional with above tools)
MIG welder (don't try gas welding)
Big can of PB Blaster
Strong putty knife.
Electric drill and bits.
Nut breaker
Body work dollies and hammers
A friend with a floor lift is a Godsend (Thanks, Jon Paschke)</span>

If you would like the entire article (PDF format but only about 16kb as there are no pictures), PM me.

I would certainly advise trying to pick up at least a little experience first. Pick up a fender at the local "Pick Your Part" junk yard, cut off one side and weld it back. With luck, you can also use it as a source of sheet metal for the small patches you'll probably wind up needed. I'd offer to give you one, but shipping from here would likely be more than it's worth.

Another tool that I have found to be handy is a air punch/flanger-HF, about $30 ISTR. This tool allows you to punch holes for spot welding on overlapped panels and to creat a 1/2" wide flange at the panel lap.

 

[Jim_Stevens]

The previous owner of my TR-3A replaced the floorboards and (yes) brazed them in, and it looks like heck. Gotta grind all that out. I too have a MIG welder, so will tackle that job. I think I will have them powder-coated first, though, which is my suggestion to you-- I'm sure that'll cause a response! Best, Jim

 

[mallard]

A mig welder that uses gas is much better than the ones that use the flux wire. I would also use .023 wire for the thin metal.

 

[hondo402000]

I think when he said gas welding he meant ACY/OXY gas welding, but yes 023 wire solid core and argon/co2 as shielding gas and practice on some spare metal if you have not done it before,

Hondo

 

[karls59tr]

I'm probably going against the general consensus here but I like the idea of using the newer glue compounds to fasten floorboards to clean metal. Where can I find out more info on doing this? I have no desire or the patience to weld.

 

[apbos]

Here BCF I was for it until I removed the old floors. The getting everthing perfectly lined up to glue on to the sills is going to be difficult with the glue. Welding gives you time to line things up.

Paul

 

[TR6BILL]

This subject was broached some time back. Glue works well on unibody, where everything lines up. Body-on-frame flexes. You be the judge. Welding works.

 

[tdskip]

You could always hire someone to do the actual welding.