TR2/3/3A TR3A Fan Extension End Bolt Size

[M_Pied_Lourd]

Hi Guys,

Quick Question. Tomorrow I want to remove my fan extension. I did a quick search and it looks like one of the recommended methods is to use an impact wrench. Does anyone happen to know that socket size that I will need for the bolt? I know that it will require a trip to the tool store tomorrow as I don't have an impact socket that big....

Cheers,
M. Pied Lourd

 

[TR3driver]

1-1/8". Preferably 6 point, as the rounded corners make it easier for a 12 point to slip. (But most if not all impact sockets are 6 point anyway.)

 

[M_Pied_Lourd]

Thanks Randall.

Cheers,
M. Pied Lourd

 

[TRDejaVu]

For those of us who don't have an impact gun. I used the "starter" method to undo the bolt and made this up to lock the crank when tightening the dog bolt. Crude, but cheap and it works well.

 

[M_Pied_Lourd]

Picked up the socket this morning to complete the job of removing the fan extension in order to replace it with a fan eliminator kit. Thanks Randall, perfect fit! Engine looks a little better with a good scrub down, light sanding and a fresh coat of paint.

Cheers,
M. Pied Lourd

 

[TR3driver]

Amazing what a little paint will do, eh?

What's the story on that crankcase breather, Pied? I'm contemplating something similar for my "hot rod" motor, but haven't quite decided what to do.

 

[prb51]

Did you recently rebuild the unit Pied? Looks great with fresh paint on...why did you make that type of breather unit?

 

[TR4nut]

I'm going to guess that Pied got a few neat bits from the TR3A racer - and the breather setup was one of them. I take it you are keeping a catch tank setup Pied?

ps. where did you source the bolt setup to replace the fan extension? Is that one of Art Lipp's kits?

 

[M_Pied_Lourd]

Randy,

You win the prize. The breather was a mod done by the previous owner of the race car. It does indeed lead to a catch can on the bulkhead. I am assuming that this would have been a requirement to race as I understand that under hard cornering with the old vent tube oil could potentially spill out.

Yes, the fan eliminator came from Art Lipp. I ordered it at the same time I purchased my Aluminum Rad with SPAL fan combo.

prb, I have never heard the car run. It was supposedly running well when it was last driven about 6-7 years ago. I did a compression test when I first purchased it but that is the extent of what I have done on it beside the cosmetic stuff. Looks like it could benefit from a new clutch, so I will be ordering that this week.

Cheers,
M. Pied Lourd

 

[Twosheds]

What's the story on that crankcase breather, Pied? I'm contemplating something similar for my "hot rod" motor, but haven't quite decided what to do.

Randall:

My old TR3 racecar had an interesting crankcase breather/catch tank set-up. The stock breather tube was turned 180 degrees so that it pointed straight up. The stock valve cover has a drilled tab on the left rear side that is positioned in exactly the right place to attach an Adel clamp holding the tube. A hose then runs from the end of the tube to a catch tank next to the battery.

This is the only racecar that I have ever seen that uses this set-up. I think it's kinda cool because it uses some stock parts. I have always wondered what that tab on the valve cover is for. Probably not this, but it works.

You probably have an aftermarket valve over, though.

 

[TR3driver]

That is interesting, John. Didn't oil tend to collect in what was originally the high point of the breather tube?

My thought for my mostly street-driven car is to add a proper PCV system that both pulls filtered fresh air through the crankcase at idle & cruise, plus still burns the fumes at full throttle. Probably will need some sort of separator to keep oil out of the intake, but I'd prefer something that automatically drains back to the crankcase. A catch can might work, though, depending on how much oil it actually catches in normal operation.

 

[Twosheds]

Randall, I never looked in the tube, nor even found any oil in the catch tank.

You'll correct me if I am wrong I'm sure, but I think that the purpose of the catch tank requirement on a racecar is to keep oil off the track in the event of a catastrophic engine failure, not so much for normal discharge from the breather.

 

[TR3driver]

You'd know about that better than I would, John.

But I pretty much always get evidence of oil mist at both the road draft tube and the filler cap; and I don't particularly want that oil getting on the air filter or sucked into the intake if I can avoid it. Probably that's because my engines are always a bit 'tired' and losing more blowby past the rings than any self-respecting race engine would.

 

[M_Pied_Lourd]

Just in from the garage and thought I would make a quick progress report tacked on to the end of this thread.

Today I put in a new clutch, taper pin and drilled grade 8 bolt in the cross shaft. Sanded down the transmission casing and gave it a coat of paint. I am using a TR6 tranny with the original A type overdrive from this car. Mated the tranny to the engine. Put in a new rear gearbox mount. Dropped the engine and tranny into to frame. Went in without too much difficulty....was having trouble getting the front engine mounts down on their blocks....I am guessing that it can't be done with the engine mounts in place. I ended up attaching one mount to the frame and one to the engine and it dropped in perfectly. Live and learn. Yes, I remembered the grounding strap on the drivers side mount

Cheers,
M.Pied Lourd

 

[prb51]

Looking good! Nice to know the ins/outs like that on your car isn't it.

 

[mrv8q]

Are you going to write<span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-family: 'Arial Black'"> <span style="color: #FF0000"><span style="text-decoration: underline">TR3</span></span></span></span> with a paint brush on your snazzy new block?

 

[tdskip]

These updates are great - keep them coming.

 

[vivdownunder]

Twosheds, the tab on the back of the TR valve cover was used to attach a fuel line up to a single downdraft carbie in Vanguard sedans.

At some unrecorded time the factory seems to have decided to make just one valve cover for all applications, probably to save a few British pence per car.

Regards,

Viv.

 

[M_Pied_Lourd]

Kevin,

I thought about putting the TR3 back on the block....you can see it in the pictures up top before I cleaned and sanded.

Before I got rid of the original paint, I took some close up pics with the camera and made an etching of it on paper in case I wanted to do it.

Cheers,
M. Pied Lourd

 

[angelfj1]

Kevin,

I thought about putting the TR3 back on the block....you can see it in the pictures up top before I cleaned and sanded.

Before I got rid of the original paint, I took some close up pics with the camera and made an etching of it on paper in case I wanted to do it.

Cheers,
M. Pied Lourd

MPL: It really looks neat if you decide to do this. We scribed the outline of the original "TR3" into the casting before we cleaned and painted the block. That way we were able to correctly paint with red later.

good luck