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Tips
Tips

TR2/3/3A TR3A Exhaust flange gasket tips

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newmexTR3

newmexTR3

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Hey guys,

Just discovered that my flange gasket has a big gap in it and I I need to replace it. I haven't done one in years- any tips / special tools you can recommend for doing this job?

Will I need to take off the carbs?

Is this easier done standing or from underneath?

Cheers,
Gavin
 
Take off the carbs and anything else that is in the way. Remove the nuts holding both the intake and exhaust manifolds. Don't forget the two nuts hidden below. Leave the intake still bolted to the exhaust manifold and pull back on the manifolds so they come away from the head. Replace the gaskets and re-assemble.
 
Don, I think Gavin is talking about the gasket between the exhaust manifold and the down pipe, as he asked if it was best to do from the top or UNDERNEATH. At least that's what I get from what he said. Of course, I've been wrong on more then one occassion. :wall:
 
martx-5 said:
Don, I think Gavin is talking about the gasket between the exhaust manifold and the down pipe,
Click to expand...
That was my impression too. In that case, it's easier from underneath, IMO. Need a 3/8" drive, preferably 6-point, thin wall deep socket, 1/2" as I recall (but I could have that wrong) and a long extension or two. Put the car up on ramps or stands.

If the nuts don't come off easily, squirt them with some PB Blaster or Kroil and let sit for a while.

Then when a stud snaps off, we can talk about removing the manifolds.
:wall:

Use plenty of anti-seize on the threads when you put it back together. The copper-colored stuff works best for me. IMO fresh lockwashers and nuts are a good idea, too.
 
This maybe a stupid question but... The gap in the flange gasket is directly facing the back of the generator. So the escaping exhaust is exiting directly into it.


Is this potentially harmful for the innards of the generator for short drives for this week while I wait for parts, or should I not drive it unless absolutely necessary?


Also, would a leak of this nature cause the engine to backfire through the carbs, or this that just an issue of running too rich?


Cheers,
Gavin
 
Not exactly good for the generator; but I'd take a chance on it, especially for only short trips. If you're really worried about it, you could always slit a soup can and clamp it over the leak with a couple of worm-type hose clamps or some safety wire. Won't stop the leak entirely, but will deflect it from the generator.

No idea what it was, but once upon a time I matched up that gasket with one at my FLAPS. Chevy V8 as I recall.

Generally, rich mixture will not cause backfiring through the carbs. Lean mixture can, and exhaust leaks tend to make the mixture go lean; but I doubt that's the problem.
 
Yes do it from underneath and yes use the 6 point and you will need a couple feet of extension. One thing you might want to look at is the plane the two pieces meet at. These cars are very forgiving, but if the bottom pipe is bent away or twisted too much it will perhaps not seal. They generally will suck up together, but take a look.
 
After 2 hours, I got this fixed tonight. Here's a classic for you- whoever put the flange nuts on before me used not 1, not 2, but 3 different sized nuts! Considering there are only three nuts to take off, this is pretty unbelievable.

Everyone's tips helped tremendously. Car sounds so much better now.

Cheers,
Gavin
 
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