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TR2/3/3A TR3A engine bay
- Thread starter NutmegCT
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Don Elliott
Obi Wan
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Tom - All imports into Canada were stamped as they came off the ships with a numeral in front of the TS Commission Number. For example, mine really is 8TS 27489 LO, where they added an 8 because it came into Canada in 1958. A friend has a 0 in front of his TS number because his is a 1960. Ken Dahman of St. Louis, Mo. has a 9 in front of his TR number and later found out that the black TR3A he bought was really imported into Canada in 1959.
Tom - Would this explain the "Canadian" style oil filler cap on yours ? Do you have a pre-digit stamped in front of your TS number ? If so, it would have been a Canadian import.
Oh yes, I also get docked at TRA for having this 8 stamped on my TS plate because it's not "original" according to the US judging guidelines. But people who stamp new numbers into a "new" TS plate and put it on with pop-rivets don't get docked any points because it looks nice. Even though the fonts on the repro plates are not correct and pop-rivets were not used in the 50s and/or 60s. At least not by the S-T factory on TRs.
TRA do not deduct points for a plastic battery box because it's a "safety feature". Rubbish ! I never had a battery box, (see my black engine compartment above after 85,000 miles when that photo was taken) and batteries will not spill battery acid if you set the voltage regulator to put out the needed volts and no more. If it's set too high, the battery and acid get over-charged and too hot so it expands and spits. When it gets too hot, it evaporates faster and the owner usually adds too much water which causes even more problems.
Tom - Would this explain the "Canadian" style oil filler cap on yours ? Do you have a pre-digit stamped in front of your TS number ? If so, it would have been a Canadian import.
Oh yes, I also get docked at TRA for having this 8 stamped on my TS plate because it's not "original" according to the US judging guidelines. But people who stamp new numbers into a "new" TS plate and put it on with pop-rivets don't get docked any points because it looks nice. Even though the fonts on the repro plates are not correct and pop-rivets were not used in the 50s and/or 60s. At least not by the S-T factory on TRs.
TRA do not deduct points for a plastic battery box because it's a "safety feature". Rubbish ! I never had a battery box, (see my black engine compartment above after 85,000 miles when that photo was taken) and batteries will not spill battery acid if you set the voltage regulator to put out the needed volts and no more. If it's set too high, the battery and acid get over-charged and too hot so it expands and spits. When it gets too hot, it evaporates faster and the owner usually adds too much water which causes even more problems.
OP
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Paul - back in early February I joined TRA, BMCNE, NET, and VTR. I assume I'll start receiving a newsletter or something from them eventually.
I tried cleaning a bit of the engine bay "coating" with solvent, but nothing at all comes off. I'm *definitely* trying a small spot with the Krud Kutter Graffiti edition asap. (When I've finished breaking and removing the 6 inches of solid ice from my 200 foot driveway.)
Don - I checked my commission plate. There's no evidence of anything extra stamped anywhere, so no hint of Canadian import. By the way, the *very* old remnant of decal on the oil cap doesn't resemble either the USA or Canada decals in the pictures above, and there are no "finger grip indentations" at all.
Many of the posted pics show a round green handle on the heater valve. While my heater valve works, it does have a leak; the metal "extension" out of the valve actually wiggles in the opening, and the turning handle is just a straight bar head.
Kevin - the wire wrap is on my list. I'll probably use the plastic "corrugated" stuff from Advance Auto as a temp, until I get the engine bay paint cleaned off. After cleaning and replacing as needed, all wires and connections, I'd like to use that "original" black harness tape I've seen (Moss 162-025) if you guys think that's most appropriate.
As temp was 16 in the garage yesterday I didn't get the starter tested or installed - so I haven't done any electrical measurements.
Tom
I tried cleaning a bit of the engine bay "coating" with solvent, but nothing at all comes off. I'm *definitely* trying a small spot with the Krud Kutter Graffiti edition asap. (When I've finished breaking and removing the 6 inches of solid ice from my 200 foot driveway.)
Don - I checked my commission plate. There's no evidence of anything extra stamped anywhere, so no hint of Canadian import. By the way, the *very* old remnant of decal on the oil cap doesn't resemble either the USA or Canada decals in the pictures above, and there are no "finger grip indentations" at all.
Many of the posted pics show a round green handle on the heater valve. While my heater valve works, it does have a leak; the metal "extension" out of the valve actually wiggles in the opening, and the turning handle is just a straight bar head.
Kevin - the wire wrap is on my list. I'll probably use the plastic "corrugated" stuff from Advance Auto as a temp, until I get the engine bay paint cleaned off. After cleaning and replacing as needed, all wires and connections, I'd like to use that "original" black harness tape I've seen (Moss 162-025) if you guys think that's most appropriate.
As temp was 16 in the garage yesterday I didn't get the starter tested or installed - so I haven't done any electrical measurements.
Tom
Don Elliott
Obi Wan
Offline
Here's another Oil Filler Cap for a US TR. The valve should be brass with a green handle. The side pipe should not wiggle. I strongly suggest you buy a new one before you lose all your water and have a prblem while far away from anywhere. BTW, the wiggly pipe is available separately. If you buy a new faucet, you have to make sure you get both parts. Often the handle may be red (for a Healey).
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mrv8q
Luke Skywalker
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Hey, Tom, here's another pic of an absolutely stunning 3A I saw for the first time today: https://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p52/mrv8q/IMG_0533.jpg
I was almost ashamed of parking my car next to his, but he was such a nice guy, he just laughed it off. It was a TS 67XXX car, painted in a garage, just stunning! More food for thought...
I was almost ashamed of parking my car next to his, but he was such a nice guy, he just laughed it off. It was a TS 67XXX car, painted in a garage, just stunning! More food for thought...
TRopic6
Jedi Warrior
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Tom,
My TR3A was built on 25 Feb 1959, close to yours (TS44864LO; Eng TS45628E). I got it in 1980 and it was pretty original with about 80K miles. I restored it myself in 1990 and wanting to keep it authentic, reused as many of its parts as possible. I'm not sure how my posts of the engine bay will come out. The car is now in storage on the mainland, but I'll be able to take some better pictures in a few weeks.
Great photos Don. Mine has the 'smooth' oil cap as well, and I have no reason to think it is not original to the car. Unless there was an epidemic of TR owners losing oil caps, I think the smooth version was factory for the US.
For a starter story, my TR4's starter conked out while I was at USAF pilot training. I had just rebuilt the TR3 bullet starter, so in it went. It made a very 'mechanical' meshing sound when it turned the engine over, but it worked for the 2 weeks it took to repair the TR4 starter (grounded field coil). I think I remember one pinion had one less tooth than the other. (And the ring gear bevels were on the wrong side). You'll enjoy working on the 3.
Jeff
Honolulu, HI
TR6 CF13816U (driver)
TR3A TS44864LO (stored)
My TR3A was built on 25 Feb 1959, close to yours (TS44864LO; Eng TS45628E). I got it in 1980 and it was pretty original with about 80K miles. I restored it myself in 1990 and wanting to keep it authentic, reused as many of its parts as possible. I'm not sure how my posts of the engine bay will come out. The car is now in storage on the mainland, but I'll be able to take some better pictures in a few weeks.
Great photos Don. Mine has the 'smooth' oil cap as well, and I have no reason to think it is not original to the car. Unless there was an epidemic of TR owners losing oil caps, I think the smooth version was factory for the US.
For a starter story, my TR4's starter conked out while I was at USAF pilot training. I had just rebuilt the TR3 bullet starter, so in it went. It made a very 'mechanical' meshing sound when it turned the engine over, but it worked for the 2 weeks it took to repair the TR4 starter (grounded field coil). I think I remember one pinion had one less tooth than the other. (And the ring gear bevels were on the wrong side). You'll enjoy working on the 3.
Jeff
Honolulu, HI
TR6 CF13816U (driver)
TR3A TS44864LO (stored)
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PeterK
Yoda
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Jeff,
Our 1958 TR3A TS29694L was originally delivered new to Hawaii (per BMH certificate) before statehood. Later was shipped to CA where it spent its life until moving here to New England.
We envision it as original in pearl white, white hood and curtains, and black interior, driving through some pineapple plantation by a rich land owner with a big hat. But after moving to bling bling CA, it became signal read and black. Oh well.
Our 1958 TR3A TS29694L was originally delivered new to Hawaii (per BMH certificate) before statehood. Later was shipped to CA where it spent its life until moving here to New England.
We envision it as original in pearl white, white hood and curtains, and black interior, driving through some pineapple plantation by a rich land owner with a big hat. But after moving to bling bling CA, it became signal read and black. Oh well.
NickMorgan
Jedi Knight
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Don,
That's a very interesting one. I installed my overdrive switch so that it engages when switched down. I did this because my TR4A had a column switch that switched down to engage overdrive. Also in the UK the light switches work the opposite way around to the USA and presumably Canada, too. I was amused to notice this when I visited the USA. To me it is natural to switch something on by pushing the switch down!!!
Do you think that Triumph used the same switch, but turned it upside down on left-hand-drive cars?
Nick
That's a very interesting one. I installed my overdrive switch so that it engages when switched down. I did this because my TR4A had a column switch that switched down to engage overdrive. Also in the UK the light switches work the opposite way around to the USA and presumably Canada, too. I was amused to notice this when I visited the USA. To me it is natural to switch something on by pushing the switch down!!!
Do you think that Triumph used the same switch, but turned it upside down on left-hand-drive cars?
Nick