• Hey Guest!
    British Car Forum has been supporting enthusiasts for over 25 years by providing a great place to share our love for British cars. You can support our efforts by upgrading your membership for less than the dues of most car clubs. There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Upgraded members don't see this banner, nor will you see the Google ads that appear on the site.)
Tips
Tips

TR2/3/3A TR3A Boot trim out.question.

Share this page

Tinkerman

Tinkerman

Darth Vader
Offline
As you can see from the picture there is quite a bit of Hardura mat that needs to be trimmed from the mat. My question is this. Has any one ever left it that way, untrimmed? Or does it need to be trimmed and left flat? At least to my self I can make a case for either way but, I'm curious.

Thanks, Tinkerman
 

Attachments

  • 21686.jpg
    21686.jpg
    145.3 KB · Views: 386
As I recall, mine fit fine w/o any trimming. I suppose it will look better if trimmed to match the floor. OTOH, depending on what you carry in there, the extra material may help protect the contents.

When I carry the side curtains I fit a length of thick masonite about 4" wide across the front (against the cover against the tank) to protect that panel from the metal legs of the curtains. I also drape a towel over the top of the curtains to keep them from chafing on the painted metal at the rear of the boot. That flap of excess might serve as that protection.
 
The Hardura mat in my TR3A was contoured flat when new. THe new one is 20 years old and I trimmed it to fit the same way. No TRA judge ever commented on it or anything else in the "boot" because you are not required to open the boot lid. I always do because I have so much to show.

BTW George, I stuff my side curtains in a special bag made for that and when I store them in the boot, I place them so the black supports at towards the rear of the car. I pack tool bags etc. up anong the rear hardboard (I protect mine too) and the side curtains in the bag lie on a slight slope
 

Attachments

  • 21687.jpg
    21687.jpg
    24.7 KB · Views: 355
All I can say Tink is I am getting jealous. Looks like you are getting very close.

Cheers,
M. Pied Lourd
 
Close MP, but it still is not running. The first attempt will come soon though.
If it starts, I will be one happy guy!

Nice tool kit Don!

Tinkerman
 
Dick: First of all, I am impressed by the progress you are making! Good show.

This is a personal preference thing. If you were to buy the covering from one of the main suppliers, it is already cut to fit (sort of) the floor. The original is laid in, without adhesive and secured with four #4 oval head, slotted trim screws and cup washers.

Cheers
 
Thanks for the kind comments Frank. I did in fact buy it from TRF and it came partially trimmed. I think I will get the gas tank portioned trimmed and decide from there. There isn't enough for it to go all the way up the back so it might look better just trimmed to fit flat.

Cheers, Dick
 
Thanks Frank, Earl (ekamm) posted that and he sent me a couple of pictures of his boot area. Gotta love the forum!

Dick
 
The 4 tiny #4 trim screws are correct. My TR3A cam with them when new. But during my 3 year restoration from 1987 to 1990, I totally forgot about them. Sometine during all the welding, I must have welded these tiny holes closed. I don't have the holes or the screws. It's been that way for 20 years. Since TRA don't ask to judge the boot, I don't need the screws. I cover the mat with another piece of trimmed carpetting to keep the matting clean and it saves wear. Alao I can flip out the matting and shake it to get rid of sand or other dust etc. without having to un-do 4 screws which is a pain.

I also consider that the closure of those 4 holes means fewer spots where new rust might develop and the floor inside the boot stays dry.

This is how my boot floor looked in 2007, 17 years after it was repainted in 1989. I had removed the wire harness and sent it to Rhode Island Wiring where they put new black cotton braided covering on it.
 

Attachments

  • 21702.jpg
    21702.jpg
    74.4 KB · Views: 256
Interesting points Don. I would have to drill new holes because I have a new floor board with no holes so I will adopt your method. Makes sense.

Dick
 
My name is Eric. By the way the new Hardura mat fit pretty well although not at all like the original. The original was less flexible and less jute backing. I had to trim the part closest to the boot or tank closeout otherwise it fit OK. I had to use a #6 screw and washer as I have the original boot floor and the holes were a little rusty and the holes were too loose for the #4 screws. Also looking at Don's pic I wonder where the wiring harness to the tail end are.

Also the mat I have is a VB product.
 
My apologies Eric, I should know not to trust my memory these days. Thanks for the pictures. Since I have a new floor in the boot with no holes in it I'm leaning towards Don's idea of not putting any holes in it.
By the way do you have any close up pictures on how the boot stay rod is attached to the mounting bracket on the boot hinge?

Thanks, Dick
 
I will take some later if no one beats me to it.Car show today if not rained out.
 
Here's a few pics I took more let me know it there is anything that I missed.
bootstay003.jpg


bootstay002.jpg
 
Just re-read your post here is a closeup of the place where it attaches.
bootstay004.jpg
 
That's great Eric, thanks. Answers my questions, very well. Hope you had a good outing yesterday.

Cheers, Dick
 
No problem, the car show was poorly attended but we had a good time. 2" rain right at the start of the show, there's normally around 1000 cars and with bad weather maybe 100.
 
Back
Top