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TR2/3/3A TR3A Battery Box Replacement

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oxendine

Jedi Hopeful
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I'm currently working on a project I just brought home. It's a 1960 3A with little rust. The battery box had some rust on the vertical back side towards the top. I've drilled the spot welds and then cut the box loose just below the hole where the oil pressure line goes through. I'm kinda stuck as to where to join the box to the vertical section under the scuttle. It looks nearly impossible to drill the spot welds out. I've thought of trying to cut as much away as possible and then cut m new box to match?

Thanks, Donnie
 
I give my panel shop a replacement battery box part CAR1 from TRF. The rear flange on the replacement box determines where it joins below the scuttle.

Viv.
 
The original is spot welded to the drip rail forward of the scuttle. You will have to drill those rivets through the scuttle drip rail downward. Later you will hole weld the new box through these welds and grind the extra weld dots smooth.
 
I cut my box initially as I was planning on cutting off the top flange on the new box and just fitting it to where I made the cut on the old box. In the end, I did drill out the spot welds that John is talking about. Here are some photos. Hope that they help

Initial Cut


Spot Welds Drilled










Dry Fit of new Box



Cheers
Tush
 
I helped a friend replace his battery box. When we were ready to install the new one, it wouldn't fit. So I took a piece of 2 by 4 wood, laid it in the bottom of the battery box and using another length of 2 by 4 and a 5 pound hammer gave it a couple of good whacks. In it went.
 
That is the way they did it at the factory.
 
We ended up doing about what was mentioned here other than drilling the spot welds from the top of the scuttle. We bent the rear piece of the box enough to fit down in place and then from inside the car used a porta power and pushed it back into place and then welded it. Looks great!
 
I drilled the spot welds, and squeesed the box in. I had to drill a few spot welds in front of the box on the tranny tunnel ledge to get enough room to press the box upper lip into position. Be sure to bend the hood ledge back into position, because it will raise up a little with all the prying. Here's a few pictures,

View attachment 29466View attachment 29467 6ClampItInPosition.jpg9TopBeforeGrinding.jpgF_all_welded.JPG
 
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