TR2/3/3A TR3 wiring

[griff]

I have just installed a new cloth bound wiring harness from British Wiring and was wondering how you guys have dealt with the "issue" that I ran into.
While I have not yet completed wiring, I do have the harness pretty much in place and the Voltage Regulator, fuse box, horns, and light harnesses in place. Upon running the harness to where it seemed to need to be, I end up with excessive lengths on the wires to the regulator and fuse box.

Did others pull the harness back under the dash, or cut these wires shorter or????

Thanks,
Griff

 

[MGTF1250Dave]

Aloha Grif,

Having the wires a little long is much better than too short. I suspect they are put together that way to allow for twists, kinks, etc. I have a pre TS60000 TR3A with screw post connectors for both the fuse block and voltage regulator. When I installed the harness I just trimmed the wires to fit. I would recommend leaving some slack in the wiring.

 

[Geo Hahn]

Having the wires a little long is much better than too short...

I agree and left mine long for a couple of years until satisfied nothing was going to happen to require that excess length, then I got my courage up to shorten them and duplicate the factory look.

Here's a pic pic I took of a control box on a very ratty but very original TR3A to remind you of what you are trying for:

BTW -- the fuse block has channels on the back side that seem to be made for neatly routing the wires BEHIND the block, yet I have never seen an original TR wired this way. Too bad, looks like it could present an even neater package in this area.

 

[griff]

Thanks guys. I was thinking the same thing- I figured I would leave them XL until all was complete and working properly and then look to shorten/neaten them up.

The cloth harness does look a huge amount better than the sloppy vinyl/taped harness that was on it.

I am working on dash/gauges today and hope to crank it by the week-end.


Thanks again,

Griff

 

[NickMorgan]

You are fine as long as you have an early harness without the spade connectors. That is a lot easier to trim shorter if necessary. It is always handy to have a harness that is a little long. That way you won't be stretching wires through the bulkhead which could cause chafing in the future. Also if you ever need to take a switch or gauge out in the future you will be pleased of the extra wire.

 

[Don Elliott]

Here is how it looks on my 1958 TR3A. Those are the original wires from 1958 so there was no need to shorten them. All I ever did was clean them in 1990 during my restoration but in 2007, I sent it off the Rhode Island Wiring and had a new black cotton loom wrapped on the whole harness. The photo is from about 2005 before the new loom was put on.