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TR2/3/3A TR3 Windsheild Frame Question

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mountainman

mountainman

Jedi Trainee
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Does anyone know if the little screw plates [in photo] inside the windshield frame are available anwhere? The screws are all rusty and I can't get them out already broke one screw off and will probably will have to drill them out.
Thanks
Greg

framenuts.jpg
 
I can't recognize what I'm seeing in your photograph. The "L" shaped brackets at either corner at the bottom of the frame are each held with four scews. Those are commonly badly rusted and need to be replaced. These pieces, Moss #802-675, are available from all the normal suppliers.

But when I look at your photograph, I draw a blank. What do those inserts I see do?
 
I don't recognize them either. Has me wondering if that is one of the aluminum frames, which were apparently too soft to take threads directly. I know they had special Tenax studs as well, that went competely through the frame instead of just screwing into one side of it.
 
Hey Fellows,
I know about the L brackets but these are the ones that the screws that hold the stanchion to the windsheild one screw per plate plus one in the L bracket they are located one in the middle and one about the top of the frame. This is a brass frame but do have these little guys screwed to the frame with little screws like the corner bracket has. I hope I explained this better this time.
Thasnks again
Greg
 
I just looked at my windscreen frame, and it doesn't have those brackets. What it does have is two threaded holes where you show the brackets. It also has another hole in between those two which has a screw in it that I never removed...I don't know what that is holding in place. :confuse: I don't know what you have there, as I've never seen that before. Another TR mystery!
 

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Re: TR3 Windshield Frame Question

Aloha Greg,

I am assuming you are asking about the short pieces of flat bar in the sides of the windshield frame that the the three screws on each side thread into. The screws #52) go through the stanchion (#50) and tenon plate (#51) and hold the windshield in place.

I suspect that you maybe able to carefully pry the flat pieces out of frame. Probable soldered in place and now with some rust also. I don't know of a source for replacement bits, but should not be to difficult to make replacements with flat bar, a drill and tap.
 

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Re: TR3 Windshield Frame Question

I had a bit of trouble understanding the original photo above but them I remembered that this is inside the chromed brass frame on my early 1958 TR3A when I was last changing the glass. These threaded pads are inside the bottom of the groove up the sides where the glass slides into the frame with the rubber seal. The screws #52 are secured to the threads in the small plates that Mountainman shows above.

To help him with his problem of how to get the broken stubs of the rusty screws out of these holes, use a lot of penetrating oil and wait a day or a week, applying a bit more every day. A little heat would help, but you don't want to melt the brass of ruin the chrome. Or, as you said, you might drill them out.

I seem to remember that on my frame, these pads are brazed or silver soldered into the bottom of the groove.
 
Re: TR3 Windshield Frame Question

Yes, those are the ones I was referring too, but mine are attached with little screws and maybe soldered. I have been bathing them in PR Blaster and hopefully they will come loose. If not I'll drill them and make some new ones. I was hoping to find them for sale.
Thanks everyone for your help
Greg
 
Re: TR3 Windshield Frame Question

Don Elliott said:
To help him with his problem of how to get the broken stubs of the rusty screws out of these holes, use a lot of penetrating oil and wait a day or a week, applying a bit more every day.
Click to expand...
:iagree: I like PB Blaster for penetrating oil, works much better than Liquid Wrench or WD-40 IMO. I hear Sili-Kroil is good too, but it's not found at Wal-Mart
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A Dremel and a cutoff wheel can cut screwdriver slots in the broken stubs, but they won't be very strong.

If you do drill, I suggest using the Dremel to grind the end smooth first so you can put a punch mark to guide the drill bit; and then drill quite a bit undersize. Usually the hollow bolt can be broken out, leaving useful threads behind.

Or just give up and source another frame. They aren't all that uncommon.
 
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