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TR2/3/3A tr3 tub shims

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S

sp53

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Hi all I am trying to improve the gaps in the doors on my 61 tr3. My buddy had me look at the gaps before he painted it and they were nice. But now that the tub is back on the frame the gaps are tight at the doors and hood. In his view the shims are in wrong but he has not seen the car for a while. He suggested I have too many, but I think I might need more in the center. Does anybody know how many shims they put in at the outriggers? And how many shims they put in the front. I used the Moss square ones with the four holes on the out riggers and the round ones in the front. I do not think it has enough because the front two single points are basically touching the frame or maybe I could get one thin shim in there. The passenger door is tight; perhaps a 1/16 air gap at the closes point towards the rear post, but it could work. The driver’s side is a 1/16 too tight at the rear. Both doors swing nice and look good in the other areas.
Steve
 
Hi Steve,

A few diagrams I have seen, along with what I recieved in my body mounting kit, I believe that there should be a stack of 4 shims on each outrider.

In my experience, to play with the door gaps at the rear you can remove/add shims at the very rear of the car and on the rear outrigger as required. Alot of trial and error to get it right.

Good luck.

Cheers,
M. Pied Lourd
 
Thanks for your reply M. Pied Lourd; I need the dialectic. One problem I am having is I put the doors on last. But what can you do? The front fenders need to go on first. I need to separate the tub from the frame a little, but I have made some frame to tub links, like the steering box assemble and the gas tank. I am going to try and get that little bit of wiggle room I need with those still hook up. And I am going to take your suggestion and pull the shim I have in the back and see if that opens up the doors a little by high centering the outriggers some.
Steve
 
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