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TR2/3/3A Tr3 trunnion

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ekamm

ekamm

Jedi Warrior
Offline
Ok, I may be little daft but I can't figure out how to get the trunnion off of the vertical link. The work shop manual says to remove it.
I'm sure that pretty much everyone knows this one.
 
Take off the steering stop bolt, then unscrew the trunnion from the link.
 
There is a stop bolt that needs to be removed. Then just unscrew the vertical link from the trunnion. One side is left hand thread.

Thoroughly clean all of the old grease and gunk out of the trunnion.
 
DougF said:
One side is left hand thread.
Click to expand...
On TR2-4, both sides are right hand thread. The "handed" trunnions & vertical links didn't start until TR4A.

Also note that the collar on that stop bolt is actually an adjustment. You might want to mark it's position before removing it. I have to adjust mine inwards a bit to keep the tires from rubbing on the sway bar.
 
Thanks I got it off. Thanks for the adjustment advice I never would have noticed the eccentric spacer. I'm not sure how it was adjusted I had it off before reading this but will look at the other side to see how it is. I think that the trunnion is original as it has the castelated nut rather than the lock nut? It needs to be replaced, but when I got the car from my dad there was a box of goodies including a couple of new trunnions.
 
ekamm said:
I think that the trunnion is original as it has the castelated nut rather than the lock nut?
Click to expand...
Could be, but the ones I installed in 2009 also came with castellated nuts. In fact I am going to insist on that in the future, since one of the nylocs was missing on my TR3A when I stripped it. I just don't have a lot of faith in 'nyloc' nuts any more; this isn't the first time I've had them back off. There appears to be a good reason why Triumph only used them in some places and not others.

Don't forget, if the trunnions are worn, the outer bushings in the lower A-arms will be worn too. If you replace those bushings, you'll need to ream them to size after installation. My preference is for a fixed reamer, as I can never get a decent finish with a cheap adjustable reamer (and can't afford a good adjustable reamer
grin.gif
). Enco will sell you a "chucking" fixed reamer for under $20.
https://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?PMPAGE=70&PARTPG=INLMK32
 
I'm not sure if the new/old ones that I have at home are for a lock nut or not. I'll look as soon as I get a chance. Would it be wrong to use a castle nut on one that is designed for a nylock? Tighten them to the correct place and drill for a split pin.
 
Should be no problem as long as you can drill on-center. I'd want to use the drill press and a center drill to start the hole.
 
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