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TR2/3/3A Tr3 Top Frame Webbing ?

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mountainman

mountainman

Jedi Trainee
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Trying to install the webbing on my top frame. I am using an illustration I think I found on Terri Ann Rebuild site anyway it calls for 17 1/2" between the rear cal and the first bow, 7" between the next, 11" between next and 14 1/4 between the last bow and the windshield. When I lay it out using those measurments I only have 12" between the last and the windshield. Can someone enlighten me on how this should be done.
Thanks
Greg
 
Greg - are you referring to this diagram?

TR_bows.gif


I can't find any reference to 17 1/2" on Terri's page on the hood, hoodsticks, and webbing:

https://www.tjwakeman.net/TR/sticks.htm

(Or maybe I'm just not understanding your question ...?)

Tom
 
Probably this diagram instead

AMCO.jpg


Note that it give the rear measurement to the center of the LTD stud, rather than the top of the capping.

Might also be that your stanchions are somewhat bent. Many of them are, as they aren't very strong and people tend to use the windshield frame as a grab rail when getting in & out of the car.
 
Since I'm not a professional convertible top installer. I discovered that if you mount and install the webbing at the designed lengths. Sometimes the bars don't line up with the top seams. They are supposed to follow the seams to be a correct fit. So I wait and see where they line up and then install the screws and plates at the aligned lengths
 
TFR said:
Since I'm not a professional convertible top installer. I discovered that if you mount and install the webbing at the designed lengths. Sometimes the bars don't line up with the top seams. They are supposed to follow the seams to be a correct fit. So I wait and see where they line up and then install the screws and plates at the aligned lengths
Click to expand...

Absolutely. When I did mine, none of the measured drawings matched my tops. I used squeeze clamps to hold each pair as I fit the webbing to the seams in my top. Then marked the bottom of the web from inside the car with chalk. One pair at a time worked best.

When complete, I used self adhesive felt to cover over the metal fixing plates and screws to hid them from showing through the top.
 
What I did was measure my top with a tape. Fastener hole to 1st seam -- seam to seam and seam to seam. Screwed the webs on to the bows using those measurements, put the top on the car, and then made minor adjustments to line the bows up to the seams a little better.

Not rocket science -- and it really doesn't take that long to do it.
 
TR3driver said:
Probably this diagram instead

AMCO.jpg


Note that it give the rear measurement to the center of the LTD stud, rather than the top of the capping.

Might also be that your stanchions are somewhat bent. Many of them are, as they aren't very strong and people tend to use the windshield frame as a grab rail when getting in & out of the car.
Click to expand...

I noticed the dimensions on TerriAnns website are different than above.



Can anyone comment which ones are correct?
 
If I am recalling the bows correctly, that middle distance (8" on the Amco instructions, 7" on TeriAnn's) is fixed, i.e. it is whatever it is when that rearmost bow is locked into position.

If that is the case then your main discretionary length is the portion of the strap from the LTD to that bow. The Amco instructions (as Randall noted) measure from the center of the LTD peg, TeriAnn's may measure from the top pf the capping. In any case she notes:

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]The rear strap section length may vary slightly due to the exact hood stick to body mounting location, the pattern that the hood (soft top) was cut from and individual differences in sewing.[/QUOTE]

So there is some fitment required to get the final result. The bows will get pulled down a bit & the straps will stretch some when the top is on and the knee joint is cocked into place -- expect to tweak it a bit before you are satisified.
 
I mounted the web to the rear deck and just draped it over the bows. Once the top was up, I muscled the bows into proper position and then marked the locations on the webbing. Finally removed the top and fastened the webbing to the bows using the marks.

After installing a couple dozen tops, I learned that even machine-built cars, which this is not, are all different. If you just use given measurements, they will be close, but never perfect.

John
 
Hi all
Just about at this stage. I have the top snapped to the windscreen. There are no snaps installed at the back (boot) end. Seems I should install these first and then snap them in place. After that I can raise the bows and proceed as suggested here. Is that the correct procedure? Given how tight these tops seem to be, I'm a bit concerned about installing the snaps now and getting them in the wrong position. I have a new AMCO top that came with my car but there are no instructions for fitting. Is there a second AMCO installation sheet for snap installation?
Cheers, Mike
 
Mike - looks like that upload is private (viewable only to you). Could you make it public?

<span style="font-style: italic">"You don't have permission to access this item. You can request access from the owner or choose a different account."</span>

Thanks.
Tom
 
If the webbing fixings are omitted from the spar above the rear window, the spar becomes adjustable. Lowering the spar makes it really easy to fit the top, then tighten it by pushing the spar up into position.

Does away with the age old struggle of trying to stretch the top onto the rear snaps or windscreen tenax fasteners, sometimes in a sudden downpour.

Viv.
 
Thanks Mike. Works fine now.

Tom
 
Thanks very much for posting the Triumph World article - I have an upcoming top-installation project, and the extra guidance will make the project much easier.
 
FordFiesta said:
Thanks very much for posting the Triumph World article - I have an upcoming top-installation project, and the extra guidance will make the project much easier.
Click to expand...

Dito. When you find a posting of exactly what you have coming up it totally reinforces the value of the board. Thanks also.
 
You are very welcome. I too greatly value the help I've received from the forum. Cheers, Mike
 
vivdownunder said:
If the webbing fixings are omitted from the spar above the rear window, the spar becomes adjustable. Lowering the spar makes it really easy to fit the top, then tighten it by pushing the spar up into position.

Does away with the age old struggle of trying to stretch the top onto the rear snaps or windscreen tenax fasteners, sometimes in a sudden downpour.

Viv.
Click to expand...

Is it me or is it Auzzie speak? :crazy: Just joking, but what's a "spar"? Is it one of the cross bows that makes up the frame?
 
I guess we have "top bow" (US), "hood stick" (UK), and "spar" (OZ). Are there additional synonyms?
 
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