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TR2/3/3A tr3 steeering gearbox

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ekamm

ekamm

Jedi Warrior
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So I'm still working on my suspension/steering rebuild. After noticing that the only way that I'm going to get the last lower wishbone piece out is to remove the nut from the steering drop arm I went to remove it and it was rather loose. I removed it, and after hearing the stories of a need for a pitman or other puller that would fit the arm to remove it from the rockershaft, to my surprise it just slid off. Now I won't know if it fits well until I get the box out to rebuild, but is it possible that someone might have just not gotten it all the way home when working on it previously? My understanding is that it was difficult to remove.
 
I don't know if yours is "broken," in some way from being used loose like that -- But if it isn't, you just plain lucked-out. Every other story about removing that arm, that I've either heard or lived through, involved the proper tool, frustration AND curse words.
 
That's what I've heard. There wasn't an appreciable amount of play in the spline. I'm going to try tightening a bit and see if it grabs the spline solidly.
 
I agree with Moses. Personally I'd want to disassemble and do a visual on the splines; but at the very least make sure it is very solid.

Although I will say that, last time I took one apart, it only involved a BFH and flying gear puller, no frustration or curse words. Of course, the story might have been different if my face had been in the way!
 
Isn't the drop arm NLA? I feel after looking at it again that the arm might go on farther an make the joint solid.
 
ekamm said:
Isn't the drop arm NLA?
Click to expand...
Probably. However it shouldn't be too hard to find a good used one, as they very rarely fail or wear out. Let me know if you can't find one, I'm sure I've got 3 or 4 in a box somewhere.

And the rocker shaft it fits onto appears to be available new. You may even find that it needs to be replaced anyway.
 
True, I hope to get a chance to pull the box today or tomorrow.
 
Hi Eric most of the ones I have seen have a tab washer that bends over the nut, so it cannot come loose. If you did not have to take that off then I think yours has been opened up. In addition, those shafts are tapered and splined and exposed to the weather. They come apart real difficultly. I am just guessing, but if yours came apart that easily did someone put the arm on upside-down with the taper pointing down.
Steve
 
All of this is possible. I don't remember if there was a washer but, there definitely was not a tabbed one. I will look when I get home and see as well I will look to see if the arm was on the correct way.
 
As far as I can see the arm was on correctly. After cleaning up the washer I guess it could be called a locking washer probably not correct and definitely not thick.
frontsuspension133.jpg

frontsuspension174.jpg

frontsuspension176.jpg
 
Yup. Locking washer. Tighten the nut, get a small chisel or screwdriver under the outer edge in the middle of a flat, bend it up as far as you can, tap it home with a small hammer.
 
Yes that is what I mean that little tab bends over to the nut. I like that red frame I have 58 that has a red frame.
Steve
 
I think that in addition to the locking washer I might try a thicker one to get the arm up on to good splines.
The red paint isn't all there, and I thought that they were all red.
I am in no way trying to make it pretty just usable. i scraped 1"= thick areas of gunk off in places just want to make it easier to put everything back together.
 
Looks like the right washer to me (after flattening). However, I would suggest replacing it with a new one. They sometimes crack and break after being bent a few times.

Also, the taper is what controls how far the arm slides onto the shaft. You shouldn't need a thick washer to push it as far as it will go.

BTW, something else that is fishy; you shouldn't have to be messing with the drop arm in order to remove the lower wishbone. It does take just a bit of fiddling, but there should be room enough to wiggle it out between the end of the shaft and the drop arm. Take the other 3 joints apart first, so you can tip & twist it. You may also have to hold the sleeve in position, if it tries to come out with the arm.
 
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