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TR2/3/3A TR3 STARTER SWITCH ASSEMBLY PROBLEM

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winnipaw

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I pulled the knob insted of pushing. The whole assembly separated. I have all the pieces but cannot find a blowup showing how to reassemble. I have tried a few different ways but cannot get it to work. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I am brand new member of this site and recently purchased a restored TR3B.
 
Welcome to the forum! Hope someone can give better advice than me.

Moss Motors: (800)667-7872
 
Sounds like the small nut came off the center pin. If you saved all the bits it isn't hard to see how they go in. Something like pin, contact ring, spring, cap and nut (probably a small lock washer too). Just the oposite of how you would design it if you should have "pulled". Good luck.
 
I reassembled it as you suggested. I then tested it for continuity and the test light lit without pushing the button. I tried backing off the nut but it still makes contact. Is there a diagram anywhere. Nothing in the original assembly manual or Clymers. Thanks for your response. I havn't even heard my car run since being delivered. darn!
 
I appologize for the weak advice. I took one apart and photographed it for you.
https://s1104.photobucket.com/albums/h324/TR3jigsaw/old%20gauges/
Sorry I don't have any software on this old computer to resize and post on the forum. The lack of continuity I am guessing is that the side contacts are not in good connection to the copper ring of the center part. In my picture you can see it has a wear notch that I needed to clean.
 
No need to resize and post. Just copy the IMG code from Photobucket and paste it here.

DSC02799.jpg


Scott
 
TRF has new ones.
LU31253
 
If you pulled hard enough to get the shaft out, one of two things happened. Either the threaded shaft broke, or the bakelite contact reamed out too deep. If the shaft stripped, you are likely out of luck in fixing it.

If the bakelite reamed, you may be able to fix it by using a small, thin washer under the nut to catch the contact. I had to do this, as I had the same symptom as you did...over time the bakelite wallowed out and the contact would not withdraw with the spring in Scott's photo. The result...the starter keeps starting. Talk about a problem! Had to rip wires behind the dash till I got one loose to stop the spinning!

Any way...good luck.

John
 
Thanks for the help boys. Put it back together as per your diagram. Found a crack on the plastic internal slide piece. Will end up purchasing a new one. Still cant hear my engine. I guess I'm off to a poor start....or "NO" start! This is a great site and I'm happy to be a member of it. Much Obliged
 
I had problems with my switch and after close examination it was just wore out. There's not much to them. What I did was purchase an good after market starter switch that you find at the auto parts stores and mounted it up underneath the dash facing down, but out of sight. I left the original one in place on the dash, but nothing connected to it for looks only. I've had this setup for years with no problems. Good luck.
 
TR3TR6 said:
that you find at the auto parts stores and mounted it up underneath the dash facing down, but out of sight.
Click to expand...


Doubles as theft protection too...Bonus!
 
winnipaw said:
Still cant hear my engine.
Click to expand...

In addition to the hand crank; there should be an "override" for the dash start button on the back of the solenoid. Turn the key on, set the choke, then push the big rubber button on the back of the starter solenoid (under the hood near the control box).

Close the hood and take a test drive :laugh:
 

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Another temporary solution is to just leave the wires to the dash switch disconnected and hanging down. To crank the engine, pinch the wires together. You need to be a little careful not to let them touch anything else; but at least you could hear the engine run.
 
Starterswitch002.jpg

Scott's photo has a few parts missing. I've found that the slider is repairable as long as its all there. Soak it in paint thinner, then lacquer thinner, then "crazy glue" the crack. It's a pretty bullet-proof part except for the slider. Usually getting a used one for parts will be less expensive than Charles' new one.
 
Gee...I thought I had that original idea. Thats exactly what I did. I'm still going to order a new one just in case my new chinese one fries! Most car guys think alike.
 
Just got the little beast to fire up. Sounds like it should. Took a 10 mile ride around Naples Florida and am in heaven. I had forgotten how basic these cars were. Very satisfying. Thankfully the guy that restored it knew what he was doing. He owned it for 35 years! I'll post some pics soon. Thanks again for all your help
 
6TTR3A said:
Scott's photo has a few parts missing. I've found that the slider is repairable as long as its all there. Soak it in paint thinner, then lacquer thinner, then "crazy glue" the crack. It's a pretty bullet-proof part except for the slider. Usually getting a used one for parts will be less expensive than Charles' new one.
Click to expand...

That was AEW's photo actually. I just posted it here for him (versus a link).

My switch is still safely ensconced in the dash in the car in storage. :frown:

Scott
 
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