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TR2/3/3A TR3 starter dog bolt removal....
- Thread starter karls59tr
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Geo Hahn
Yoda
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I used 'the rope trick' -- removing a spark plug with the crank a bit past TDC on that cylinder, stuff a length of rope in the hole to somewhat fill the space above the piston, then back the piston back up to squish the rope until it won't go any more. That holds the crank to allow loosening of the dog bolt.
No one told me and the manual didn't mention it but keeping the extension and both pulley halves all bolted together may save you some effort during reassembly as everything (e.g. timing marks) will be preserved.
No one told me and the manual didn't mention it but keeping the extension and both pulley halves all bolted together may save you some effort during reassembly as everything (e.g. timing marks) will be preserved.
TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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When doing the "rope trick", be sure the cylinder was at TDC ready to fire. If you use the other TDC, one or both of the valves will be partially open, which might possibly cause damage to the valve, etc.
But I just use an impact wrench. If you don't have an air impact, then a BFH and breaker bar will probably work as well.
Either way, you need a 6-point socket in the right size. The dog bolt doesn't have sharp corners, so a 12-point socket may not grab it securely. I don't recall the size offhand, maybe someone else does.
But I just use an impact wrench. If you don't have an air impact, then a BFH and breaker bar will probably work as well.
Either way, you need a 6-point socket in the right size. The dog bolt doesn't have sharp corners, so a 12-point socket may not grab it securely. I don't recall the size offhand, maybe someone else does.
Geo Hahn
Yoda
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I lie.
I went out to the garage to look at my notes to see if I wrote down the wrench size (I hadn't) but see that I did not use the rope.
I used a 6-point socket on a breaker bar braced wherever the end was and then bumped the starter. Make double-darn-sure you have thought about which way that bar will want to swing and have it nicely positioned against something quite solid.
Sounds dramatic but wasn't, just a bump and it was loose.
Use at your own risk, apply only as directed, YMMV, etc.
I used the rope trick on reassembly -- that's why it was on my mind.
I went out to the garage to look at my notes to see if I wrote down the wrench size (I hadn't) but see that I did not use the rope.
I used a 6-point socket on a breaker bar braced wherever the end was and then bumped the starter. Make double-darn-sure you have thought about which way that bar will want to swing and have it nicely positioned against something quite solid.
Sounds dramatic but wasn't, just a bump and it was loose.
Use at your own risk, apply only as directed, YMMV, etc.
I used the rope trick on reassembly -- that's why it was on my mind.
My method may seem a little cruder,but my starter and brakes werent operational.I just grabbed the flange behind the fan with a 2'pipe wrench.Only leaves a small mark,and in my case the hub wasnt going back on.I dont think I would be to keen on stuffing rope in cylinder to have one wrist pin take the load,but sounds like it works.
Tom
Tom
Don Elliott
Obi Wan
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If your oil pan is off, you can stick a piece of 2 by 4 wood into the space between one of the counterweights on the crankshaft and the inside of the block. This will jam the crank while loosening the starter crank bolt.
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Don't like the rope trick for reasons mentioned by TR3 driver.
If you remove the plate on the bottom of the bell housing and have a helper, you can use a large screw driver to hold the ring gear.
Bob Hustead
If you remove the plate on the bottom of the bell housing and have a helper, you can use a large screw driver to hold the ring gear.
Bob Hustead